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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 02:32:16 PM   #41
enderw88
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

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Originally Posted by Richardsperry View Post
AND you KNOW the aux fan is working, you shouldn't even think about it.
This.

This means the OEM circuitry for the fan, and check it out. In my case PO decided he wanted to manually control the front fan after he did the fan delete and installed a SPAL puller.

Unfortunately he decided to use Ace hardware connectors which shorted out as soon as he hit a puddle (he also deleted the lower cover) which meant the fans wouldn't come on and there was no way to tell until the temp gauge stared screaming up.

When you do car electrics use AUTOMOTIVE connectors, like weatherpack, and make sure you know what you're doing.

I have reinstalled the mechanical fan while I unscrew his wiring modifications to the rest of the harness.
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Buying the car is going to turn out the be the least expensive part of this experience. Fun though.
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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 03:03:31 PM   #42
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

my aux died, i replaced it with one of the crazy straight blade spal fans. I don't run the mechanical fan in the winter and run it in the summer, warmup is a little faster without the mechanical, but i wouldn't be caught dead without the mechanical in the summer in NC
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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 03:18:01 PM   #43
enderw88
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

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my aux died, i replaced it with one of the crazy straight blade spal fans. I don't run the mechanical fan in the winter and run it in the summer, warmup is a little faster without the mechanical, but i wouldn't be caught dead without the mechanical in the summer in NC
I get it. After a few close calls here in Tucson, am leaving the mechanical on. I no longer trust the electric fan until I completely verify the circuitry.
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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 05:35:15 PM   #44
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

I wired up a switch to the temp sender that turns the aux fan on. I run the fan inbetween auto-x runs and temp needle is rock solid.
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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 05:35:49 PM   #45
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

It's not that hard to test if the aux fan works. I'm not a huge fan of the lower temp thermostat, but i am supportive of upgrading to the 80/88 fan switch.

I recently removed my mechanical fan when i upgraded to the S54 Mcoupe rad, stewart water pump, aluminum thermo housing, standard thermostat, new lines and new expansion tank with brass bleed screw.

I replaced the mechanical fan with the 16in spal puller fan integrated into the circuit and on a switch. it pulls A LOT of heat out of the rad. I'm supercharged and as such there is quite a bit more heat to deal with and I haven't had any issues at the track or autox. I turn the fan on manually in between autox runs and it significantly decreases the temperature.

honestly if you have the correct supportive components you don't need the mechanical fan. It's the people who are running a 100k cooling system who delete the fan for, a couple hp, that run into problems. If done correctly the Fan delete modification provides for me at least, piece of mind that I don't have to worry about an additional fan clutch, the fan exploding into my cooling system. But that's just me.
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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 07:37:33 PM   #46
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

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There's absolutely nothing to worry about, even if it was the middle of summer. Provided your aux fan works of course.

Thermostat is temperature driven, the electrical aux fan switch does nothing to activate the thermostat. No issues.

Ok cool. Yea, my aux fan works properly (thus far) and I just upgraded to stewart wp and all other new cooling components. I think I will get the lower temp fan switch, but keep the stock temp thermostat.

I think I was a bit confused... initially I thought that the temp switch was linked to the thermostat (which obviously makes no sense now, and which explains why my dingbat-self was confused). I realize now that the temp switch activates the aux fan to come on at the two lower temp settings for low and high speed rotation (80c/88c) versus the factory 91c/99c). Clearly the two are independent as you stated.

Being NA and with all new OE components (minus stewart wp) I think I should be fine, especially with winter arriving.

Thanks for the info and for clarifying things.



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If you see the temp needle start moving above normal, TURN on the AC. (if the aux fan works, it should come on...) If it still goes up turn off the car before it gets to the red.

Thanks; this is a good way to test and see if the aux fan is functioning.... but in all honesty if this situation did occur I can see myself turning the heat on full blast instead, in a state of panic/attempt to get some heat out of the engine, instead of doing a quick diagnostic test to see if the aux fan's working! One figures that if the temp needle starts rising, at that point its sorta irrelevant whether the aux fan is working or not/you can figure that out after you pull over and shut down. I'd be more concerned with lowering the water temp!


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Originally Posted by camdinans3 View Post
I'm not a huge fan of the lower temp thermostat, but i am supportive of upgrading to the 80/88 fan switch.

Thanks for the info; I think if you are fine running the standard thermostat along with a Dinan blower, I should be fine with the standard thermostat NA! I will definitely get the fan switch, however.
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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 07:43:37 PM   #47
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

Yeah if you have a Stewart pump you're good.

Did you replace the radiator? The only issue there would be the common cracking plastic @ 70-100k miles.
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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 07:44:45 PM   #48
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

Regarding the water wetter, which I do plan to add to my coolant/dH2O mix, how many bottles are necessary?

Understeer's kit comes with two bottles while Bimmerworld's identical kit (much cheaper btw ) only comes with one. The Red Line website (maker of WW) states that one bottle treats 3-5 gallons of coolant (way more than we have.... I think! I wanna say our capacities are less than three gallons.. What's the coolant capacity of our system anyhow?) How much do you all recommend I purchase and use?


"Use one bottle for most passenger cars and light trucks, treats 3 to 5 gallons or 13.2 to 15.9 liters. Vehicles with larger cooling systems should use two bottles. Small cooling systems should use 1oz (3 to 4 capfuls) per quart."

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 07:45:50 PM   #49
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

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Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
Yeah if you have a Stewart pump you're good.

Did you replace the radiator? The only issue there would be the common cracking plastic @ 70-100k miles.
Yes, the radiator was replaced last September at 114,500 miles. I'm currently right at 120,000.
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Old Wed, Oct-19-2011, 07:48:56 PM   #50
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Default Re: Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question

With the Stewart, just one bottle of water wetter, but two wont hurt.
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Discussing Fan delete mod roll-call & W. pump question in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)