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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Sun, Oct-22-2017, 10:56:58 AM   #11
hemi8
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

I was told by the pros as RRT not to touch the rear main if its not leaking. There was some voodoo magic done at the factory, they see a lot of cars returning with rear main seal leaks after a new was installed.

Mike
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Old Sun, Oct-22-2017, 10:57:29 AM   #12
hemi8
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

I was told by the pros as RRT not to touch the rear main if its not leaking. There was some voodoo magic done at the factory, they see a lot of cars returning with rear main seal leaks after a new was installed.

Mike
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Old Sun, Oct-22-2017, 02:16:10 PM   #13
L0ADED
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///ALpineVert View Post
I had mine done in May, I researched a lot and made this thread, hope it helps. I replaced a lot of stuff that was easy and didn't add much labor.

LuK is the OE, get a BMW TOB. Also get the E39 metal pivot pin.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...ghlight=Clutch
Quote:
Originally Posted by hemi8 View Post
I was told by the pros as RRT not to touch the rear main if its not leaking. There was some voodoo magic done at the factory, they see a lot of cars returning with rear main seal leaks after a new was installed.

Mike
+1 on all of this. GL with repair OP
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Old Mon, Oct-23-2017, 01:15:48 PM   #14
Engrmikl
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

Well I think I am going with the Sachs clutch kit. Any issues with that TOB? Fly wheel probably will be a LUk since OEM is big bucks.
Rear main seal since I won't be doing this DIY so if it leaks later I can maybe get it covered. Trans seals in and out,metal pivot pin, Pilot bearing, clutch fork, slave cyl and new bolts. Trans mount, guibo and shaft bushing were done with rear refresh.
Can they combine the engine mounts in this job or should I wait to do this when I do the rod bearing later on?
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Old Wed, Oct-25-2017, 08:47:18 PM   #15
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

Ask if they can do engine mounts now if you need them. Def easier when you do rod bearings since subframe has to come off.

Your cpv gasket ring replaced recently? If not, while you are there might as well.


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Old Wed, Oct-25-2017, 11:33:42 PM   #16
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Engrmikl View Post
Well I think I am going with the Sachs clutch kit. Any issues with that TOB? Fly wheel probably will be a LUk since OEM is big bucks.
Rear main seal since I won't be doing this DIY so if it leaks later I can maybe get it covered. Trans seals in and out,metal pivot pin, Pilot bearing, clutch fork, slave cyl and new bolts. Trans mount, guibo and shaft bushing were done with rear refresh.
Can they combine the engine mounts in this job or should I wait to do this when I do the rod bearing later on?
I went with the LuK DM flywheel and clutch kit, and bought the F.A.G. pilot bearing and Sachs/OE TOB. My mechanic said the LuK TOB isn't as good as the Sachs. Having held both, the Sachs feels better put together than the LuK.

^True about the CPV. My car is currently in the shop and found it is leaking. Mechanic is out of o-rings but ordered more.

Don't forget diff seals as well. I forgot about those and my mechanic got them for me.

Last edited by Zzyzx85; Thu, Oct-26-2017 at 03:34:21 PM.
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Old Thu, Oct-26-2017, 06:31:45 PM   #17
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

Well I called a couple of local Indy shops including Meister, who is recommended by a few members here. Both asked why I wanted to change the rear main and trans seals. My answer was because it's opened up why not. There answer was Do Not Touch them unless they are leaking.
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Old Tue, Oct-31-2017, 05:44:21 AM   #18
Zzyzx85
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

Picked up my car from the shop last Friday. It was a good thing I changed my RMS out because it was leaking, as well as a bunch of other seals.

Your car, your choice. We can only give you our experiences for you to make your decisions from.
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Old Tue, Oct-31-2017, 01:03:33 PM   #19
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

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Originally Posted by Engrmikl View Post
Well I called a couple of local Indy shops including Meister, who is recommended by a few members here. Both asked why I wanted to change the rear main and trans seals. My answer was because it's opened up why not. There answer was Do Not Touch them unless they are leaking.
Iíve never heard this. Have them check if it is seeping at all, if so Iíd definitely get it replaced. Iíd be pissed if I paid all of that labor only to have to pay it again a year later but thatís me. Whatís another hour labor and ~$110 in parts at this point? Iíve heard itís a ***** to get it right, my bet is they donít want to mess with it or have to take it back apart to fix it if they donít get it right.
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Old Tue, Oct-31-2017, 06:50:24 PM   #20
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Default Re: Possible New Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///ALpineVert View Post
Iíve never heard this. Have them check if it is seeping at all, if so Iíd definitely get it replaced. Iíd be pissed if I paid all of that labor only to have to pay it again a year later but thatís me. Whatís another hour labor and ~$110 in parts at this point? Iíve heard itís a ***** to get it right, my bet is they donít want to mess with it or have to take it back apart to fix it if they donít get it right.
It's common with the RMS, sometimes changing it causes a REALLY bad leak if the new seal doesn't go in correctly (they can be tricky). If this is the case, you end up having to take the whole thing back apart again anyways to fix something that wasn't broken.

If you get everything apart and it's dry, I wouldn't touch it personally.

Input shaft is a different story though. If it's getting old I'd change it. I think the input is much more prone to leaking by itself over time and the likelihood of a new seal leaking is low.

One time I was doing a clutch with my friend on his E30 M3, the S14 likes to seep so we decided to change the RMS while we were there even though it was bone dry. Everything went together just fine, started it up and more or less immediately pumped half the engine oil all over the floor. It took us two more seals and a new RMS carrier to get it to stop.

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Discussing Possible New Clutch in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)