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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Fri, Aug-07-2009, 04:24:10 AM   #21
TurboDave
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I guess I'm the next lucky contestant that gets to try this as well. I'll be opening the dash and seeing if the torx are tight and then replacing it, if removing it and reseating it doesn't help. My symptoms seem to be limited to the blower just not working randomly. All the controls light up and work and when the blower is operating it does match the set fan speed.

Last edited by TurboDave; Fri, Aug-07-2009 at 04:33:29 AM.
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Old Sat, Aug-08-2009, 05:19:13 AM   #22
bigneil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kajtek123 View Post
Today the air suddenly stopped coming out of vents. all the lights on the digital unit were on and responding but no air. after few minutes the air starts coming out again for few seconds/a minute and then dies again. after i press the a/c button when the air is coming out, it suddenly dies. also, the air only comes out at one speed no matter what adjuster says.

any input appreciated
Yes replace the blower motor resistor, easy DIY, even if you only have 1 US patent.
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Old Thu, Aug-13-2009, 02:04:03 AM   #23
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Just got done replacing mine tonight. Did the trick! Yeah, cold air blowing again!!!
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Old Thu, Aug-13-2009, 04:16:03 AM   #24
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A few weeks ago tightening the 2 torx screws on mine seemed to bring it back to life, but it's getting intermittent again. I ordered a new one (Behr brand) from Pelican today to swap the thing out before it leaves me with no ac in 100 degree heat. $43 isn't too painful a repair.
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Old Tue, Jan-05-2010, 06:31:46 PM   #25
Synenergy52
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My M3 stopped blowing air out of the blue about a few weeks ago. All lights on the control unit work perfectly, everything appears normal. No air.

So I buy a brand new FSU and pop it in and still no air. Does the FSU have to be bolted to properly test it out? I just plugged it in and turned on the fan. Seems you guys fixed your problems by tightening bolts. Unless bolting the thing in creates some kind of necessary ground I don't see how else plugging it in could be required for a proper test. I ended up putting back the old FSU and I'm this close to ordering a new blower :/
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Old Fri, Apr-17-2015, 08:32:04 PM   #26
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Default Re: faulty motor blower or resistor?

I am bumping this because I really hate purchasing parts that wont fix the problem.

Mine basically just stopped working oneday. Has not come back on. Didnt notice any pulsating air. (only weird thing it did was come on by itself when I would put car in reverse on occasion) - best educated guess if I should buy the blower or the FSU?

came across this trouble shooting method. Not sure if this is correct, or if there is an easier way.

1. Pull the IHKA controller and measure the DC voltage from pin 3 of connector X18341 (the black one) to ground. (The shell of the cigarette lighter socket is a good ground.) It should be zero Volts at minimum fan speed and 8.5 Volts at maximum fan speed. If you don't get this signal, the problem is the controller.
2. Expose the final stage resistor connector following the procedures in the Bentley manual.
You should have 12 Volts from pin 2 to pin 4 (ground). You should also have 12 Volts from pin 5 to pin 4. If either one is missing it's a wiring or fuse problem. You should have somewhere between 0 and 10 Volts from pin 1 to pin 4 depending on the fan speed setting. If this signal is missing, the problem is probably the final stage unit, but it could be the blower motor.
3. As a final test, remove the connector from the final stage unit. Jumper pin 1 to pin 4 with a heavy gauge wire. (14 gauge solid minimum) Now jumper pin 2 to pin 5 with another piece of heavy gauge wire. The blower should spring to life. If it runs, the problem is the final stage unit. If it doesn't run, the problem is the blower motor.
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Last edited by crazyseaman; Fri, Apr-17-2015 at 08:44:56 PM.
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Old Thu, Aug-17-2017, 03:01:24 AM   #27
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Default Re: faulty motor blower or resistor?

Blower isn't blowing. I thought it might be the final stage unit so I wanted to check the torx screws before ordering a new one. No luck, but when I pulled it I noticed this sticker....that's not a made on date is it? It's a Behr unit and I assume it's factory original, but I found the sticker odd and wanted to check.
IMG_1520 by sammyzuko, on Flickr
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Old Sat, Nov-11-2017, 08:17:25 AM   #28
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Default Re: faulty motor blower or resistor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammyzuko View Post
Blower isn't blowing. I thought it might be the final stage unit so I wanted to check the torx screws before ordering a new one. No luck, but when I pulled it I noticed this sticker....that's not a made on date is it? It's a Behr unit and I assume it's factory original, but I found the sticker odd and wanted to check.
IMG_1520 by sammyzuko, on Flickr
Having same issues as you guys. Not blowing air, cold or warm. Replaced the FSU with a new Behr. Problem solved...

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Discussing faulty motor blower or resistor? in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)