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Old Sat, Jul-14-2018, 11:58:12 PM   #1
bigjae1976
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Default Repairing a damaged ECU

I think I have a bad MOSFET in my ECU. See thread below...it functioned normally other than the cyl 6 ignition coil issue.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=599550

I have the case open, I see some markings on the MOSFETs.

F D435 AB
V5036S or V503GS...can't tell which one.

I think I need to find a MOSFET with part # V5036S.

Anyone know for sure or have some advice?
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Old Sun, Jul-15-2018, 12:14:30 PM   #2
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Default Re: Repairing a damaged ECU

Seems to be "36" from the pix and datasheets I can find. They just use that stencil-style "6" thats a little misleading in appearance.

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datash...LD/V5036S.html

That said - blowing components isn't real common on these. We recently saw an MSS54HP ECU with a slightly dinged/dented case that was intermittently shorting out pins inside the case causing mystery intermittents. Any chance your DME box is bent or dinged up at all?
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Old Sun, Jul-15-2018, 01:08:02 PM   #3
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Default Re: Repairing a damaged ECU

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Originally Posted by geargrndr View Post
Seems to be "36" from the pix and datasheets I can find. They just use that stencil-style "6" thats a little misleading in appearance.

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datash...LD/V5036S.html

That said - blowing components isn't real common on these. We recently saw an MSS54HP ECU with a slightly dinged/dented case that was intermittently shorting out pins inside the case causing mystery intermittents. Any chance your DME box is bent or dinged up at all?

The parts physically look good. The internet seems to have a couple of N54/55 cars with tunes having a similar issue.

It took awhile to figure out. So after a set of spark plugs, injector, 4 coils, and a head gasket....it was the ECU.

So just need to get a V5036S MOSFET? Any other spec that I need to match?


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Old Sun, Jul-15-2018, 01:38:44 PM   #4
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Default Re: Repairing a damaged ECU

First - disclaimer... I'm not even thinking about opening a DME today and so confirming any of this, so if you get the wrong part and it sets the car on fire or whatever, not my responsibility... but...

Looks like there were 2 "packages" (i.e. formats or physical variations) for the V5036S marked chip. TO-263AB or TO-262AA. 263AB is listed twice but that's just reel-vs-tube bulk packaging so its only the 2 versions to be concerned with.





Again without looking at an actual ECU, but knowing what most of the MOSFETs look like on these units, I'm going to assume its the 263AB style.

You'd want to confirm that the pins do not go through the board (which would be 262AA) and are purely surface mount... that's my recollection but go ahead and confirm.

BTW be aware there's problems always with ordering internet chips especially for older, more obscure chips that are out of production. A ton of counterfeits show up from sketchy sellers, the problem is they re-silkscreen a similar chip with other markings and... maybe what it really is inside works for your application... maybe it doesnt...
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Old Sun, Jul-15-2018, 01:41:31 PM   #5
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Default Re: Repairing a damaged ECU

BTW I still am skeptical... did you exhaustively check the wiring harness?

Bad engine harness would have been in my parts-cannon long before a head gasket, unless you had other HG pointing symptoms (combustion contaminated coolant, compression issues, mystery coolant consumption...)

I've seen cars with bad wiring harnesses that "looked absolutely fine" from exhaustive spot checks but when the whole harness was replaced indeed the intermittents were permanently cured...
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Old Sun, Jul-15-2018, 01:58:24 PM   #6
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Default Repairing a damaged ECU

Quote:
Originally Posted by geargrndr View Post
First - disclaimer... I'm not even thinking about opening a DME today and so confirming any of this, so if you get the wrong part and it sets the car on fire or whatever, not my responsibility... but...



Looks like there were 2 "packages" (i.e. formats or physical variations) for the V5036S marked chip. TO-263AB or TO-262AA. 263AB is listed twice but that's just reel-vs-tube bulk packaging so its only the 2 versions to be concerned with.











Again without looking at an actual ECU, but knowing what most of the MOSFETs look like on these units, I'm going to assume its the 263AB style.



You'd want to confirm that the pins do not go through the board (which would be 262AA) and are purely surface mount... that's my recollection but go ahead and confirm.



BTW be aware there's problems always with ordering internet chips especially for older, more obscure chips that are out of production. A ton of counterfeits show up from sketchy sellers, the problem is they re-silkscreen a similar chip with other markings and... maybe what it really is inside works for your application... maybe it doesnt...
Thanks...lol...surely wonít blame you. Thanks for the heads up on the counterfeit stuff. I usually use Mouser for electronics so I hope Iíd be good.

Hereís a pic. It is a 2 prong surface mount part.

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Last edited by bigjae1976; Sun, Jul-15-2018 at 02:13:36 PM.
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Old Sun, Jul-15-2018, 02:05:22 PM   #7
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Default Repairing a damaged ECU

Quote:
Originally Posted by geargrndr View Post
BTW I still am skeptical... did you exhaustively check the wiring harness?

Bad engine harness would have been in my parts-cannon long before a head gasket, unless you had other HG pointing symptoms (combustion contaminated coolant, compression issues, mystery coolant consumption...)

I've seen cars with bad wiring harnesses that "looked absolutely fine" from exhaustive spot checks but when the whole harness was replaced indeed the intermittents were permanently cured...

I did the usual, new plugs, swapped coils, swapped plugs. I had muddy looking coolant and a track event in 2 weeks. Oddly...I had all of the parts to do the job and a cylinder head fresh from the machine shop. I said f-it and did the head gasket and it wasnít the issue.

Then I swapped the coil harness. Then I replaced the fuel injector plugs and swapped injectors. I checked all of the grounds. Finally I took resistance readings on the 3 pins across all 6 cylinders. Cyl 6 had a slightly different reading. 100.5 vs 101.1 for the others.

Iíve already swapped in another ECU and the miss is gone. Which is why Iím blaming the ECU. Looking back, canít believe I went through that but ECU didnít even cross my mind until after I did the head gasket.

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Last edited by bigjae1976; Sun, Jul-15-2018 at 02:15:09 PM.
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Old Sun, Jul-15-2018, 02:27:45 PM   #8
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Default Re: Repairing a damaged ECU

It could also be one of the STT128E chip (there's one on top of the board and one on the other side). They can handle upto 4 cylinders each. I don't remember which one goes to which cylinders.
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Old Sun, Jul-15-2018, 02:53:31 PM   #9
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Default Re: Repairing a damaged ECU

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Iíve already swapped in another ECU and the miss is gone. Which is why Iím blaming the ECU.
Sorry I guess I missed that, wouldn't have wasted time questioning if I'd seen that...
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Old Sun, Jul-15-2018, 02:56:29 PM   #10
bigjae1976
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Default Repairing a damaged ECU

Quote:
Originally Posted by terraphantm View Post
It could also be one of the STT128E chip (there's one on top of the board and one on the other side). They can handle upto 4 cylinders each. I don't remember which one goes to which cylinders.
Would that cause a cylinder specific issue? I only had a cyl 6 problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by geargrndr View Post
Sorry I guess I missed that, wouldn't have wasted time questioning if I'd seen that...
No problem. Totally understand, this is not a common issue. Might help someone working through a similar issue in the future!
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