[jeffgo888]

Originally Posted by HofmeisterKinky

On most engines most of the time, just wait until the idle settles and then drive off -- but GENTLY until your oil is up to temp. I like to stay below half throttle and half the indicated redline until the oil temp needle is past the first dot on the gauge, and then I don't go WOT or redline it until it's warm enough for the OBC to read the oil level.

Engine oil: The problem here is that there's no general spec for this car, like LL-01 for other BMWs, that many oils meet. All BMW says is that Twin Power Turbo 10W-60 is the only recommended oil. On the plus side, that oil was specced by BMW M for this family of engines, which is a benefit that not a lot of cars have. Basically no one has the wherewithal to figure out whether one oil actually works better than another (hint: cheap oil analysis doesn't even begin to cut it), so even if there were a better option out there, it'd be nearly impossible to find it. A lot of people like to run other 10W-60 oils, e.g. from Castrol, Liqui-Moly, and Shell. Those are all fine oils, though none of them has official endorsement. Castrol TWS 10W-60 was the original spec oil for this engine, but it's not any more and no one knows if it has been reformulated since then. A lot of people also like to run thinner oils (xW-40 and xW-50), but that's mainly for winter use so it seems you don't even need to get into that. So yeah, stick with BMW Twin Power Turbo 10W-60. And buy it from FCPEuro.com so you can do lifetime exchanges and get mostly-free oil.

Im one that lets the car idle warm up for 5 mins and then drive off gently and dont even go past 3000 rpm the first 30 mins..
thats why my E36 m3 lasted 23 years...and this is why my E92 m3 will last another 15 years..
food for thiought

[pbonsalb]

The most widely adopted theory is insufficient clearance due to tolerance stack, which has nothing to do with how the driver warms up the car or drives the car. Their are other theories, like warm up procedure, sulphur in the gas, detonation, etc., but none are seriously credited.

An S52 is like a tractor motor. There is no comparison to an S65, although from what I have experienced and read, the S65 is pretty durable unless you win the reverse lottery and get one with an unfavorable tolerance stack since clearances are specified on the tight side of the range by the factory.

[Obioban]

Originally Posted by jeffgo888

Im one that lets the car idle warm up for 5 mins and then drive off gently and dont even go past 3000 rpm the first 30 mins..
thats why my E36 m3 lasted 23 years...and this is why my E92 m3 will last another 15 years..
food for thiought

Letting your car warm up at idle increases wear, as different parts are warming up/expanding at different rates.

Not using 3000+ rpm for 30 minutes is hugely unnecessary and not beneficial, but it won't actively hurt your engine like warming up at idle. Once the car is up to temp, it's up to temp-- 10 minutes into your drive or 30 minutes into your drive doesn't matter.

... and the s52 is very simple and unstressed (low output), which is why it's reliable. It pretty much only gets damaged by a failing cooling system (unrelated to how you warm up the car) or the oil pump nut falling off (also unrelated to how you warm up the car).

[fattycharged]

Originally Posted by jeffgo888

Im one that lets the car idle warm up for 5 mins and then drive off gently and dont even go past 3000 rpm the first 30 mins..

thats why my E36 m3 lasted 23 years...and this is why my E92 m3 will last another 15 years..

food for thiought

Sounds terrible


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[jeffgo888]

Originally Posted by Obioban

Letting your car warm up at idle increases wear, as different parts are warming up/expanding at different rates.

Not using 3000+ rpm for 30 minutes is hugely unnecessary and not beneficial, but it won't actively hurt your engine like warming up at idle.

... and the s52 is very simple and unstressed (low output), which is why it's reliable. It pretty much only gets damaged by a failing cooling system (unrelated to how you warm up the car) or the oil pump nut falling off (also unrelated to how you warm up the car).

I guess, Im babying the car a lot, and maybe should not, but i like to err on side of caution.
I can rev the car high when i need it to

[pbonsalb]

You are preserving the cars for their next owners, who hopefully will really drive them like they are meant to be driven.

[jeffgo888]

I never said I wasn't gonna Rev them up lol ...I just tend to be more careful than usual and I don't think there is anything wrong with that
After all I did keep and maintain my e36 m3 for 23 years to 288000 miles

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[Obioban]

Originally Posted by jeffgo888

I never said I wasn't gonna Rev them up lol ...I just tend to be more careful than usual and I don't think there is anything wrong with that
After all I did keep and maintain my e36 m3 for 23 years to 288000 miles

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No driving style, however pointlessly conservative, is going help with the S65's rod bearing lottery.

[egebhardt]

Originally Posted by Obioban

No driving style, however pointlessly conservative, is going help with the S65's rod bearing lottery.

I know you're a Moderator. I know you've made a lot of amazing posts and I've read a lot of them over the years. Good job.
I'm just surprised you would throw out something so vague given all the technical knowledge you have and have seen.

[pbonsalb]

Because he is right that the rod bearing issues on these cars are not attributable to warm up methods or driving style. E9xM3 owned by people with all types of warm up method and driving styles have suffered rod bearing failure or excessively worn bearings.