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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Feb-10-2017, 08:40:55 PM   #1
m3vos
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Default SMG Relocation to Engine Bay Side Comparment

Hi folks, I just wanted to share my experiences in relocating my SMG pump from its stock, heat soaked location right on the engine block over to the side bin on the passenger side of the engine bay.

This is my second e46 M3 (2003), and though my first one was a manual, I decided to get an SMG this go round. I bought this car in Houston about 10 months ago, pretty good price, but it needed lots of work. I've sunk about $3k in parts into it (replaced just about every sensor and switch on the engine and tranny, reinforced the rear subframe with welded plates, replaced all bushings, and lots of little things like door lock actuators and such). The biggest issue I have dealt with, after fixing all the other problems, was a number of SMG related problems.

Over time I had replaced the SMG relay, fuse, and did the temp sensor resistor mod, which seemed to do the trick as far as eliminating the 'drop to neutral' problem on hot texas days, but I was getting an INPA reported error of 'implausible temperature.' It would just pop up the cog warning light though, not drop to neutral. I went ahead and switched out the SMG pump temp sensor, and remove the resistor mod. I did this due the the implausible temp code (probably too high of a resistance on my 3k ohm resistor mod), and after reading the attached SMG manual info which indicated that the SMG system modulates various shifting parameters based on fluid temperature, and I was having some rough shifts.

After removing the resistor mod and replacing the temp sensor, and then bleeding/readapting the SMG through INPA, it worked great! Much smoother shifts, faster response. A success all around... BUT, whenever the engine would hit 100°C, the SMG would pop into neutral. Others have posted on this as well, and it seems to be just a programmed 'feature' of the pump to shut off when it reaches 100°C. Thus why I decided to relocate the pump to a new location, a cooler one.

I have to give all credit to the youtube video by BMWMazing, posted at:

His images in the video gave me most of what I needed, though I also corresponded with him in the comments of the video (mine are listed under 'Duke Cannon'), and garnered other info from comments others had asked (e.g., the connectors on the hydraulic lines). I just followed what he did, and took my own pictures, and also am providing the specifics of the wires and lines I used.

Wiring
I needed 8 feet of wiring, using following connectors and wires (note the use of GXL wiring, which is a specific type of high heat resistant wiring for automotive applications – HIGHLY recommended since the new loom passes right behind the engine block):

12 Gauge Wiring (pump main power): GXL Automotive Copper Wire, Red, 12 AWG, 0.0808" Diameter

 


18 Gauge Wiring (most of the wires in the loom): GXL Automotive Copper Wire, Black, 18 AWG, 0.0403" Diameter

 


20 Gauge Wiring (5 of the wires in the loom): GXL Automotive Copper Wire, White, 20 AWG, 0.032" Diameter

 


Uninsulated Butt Connector, 22-18 Wire Size, 0.591" Length, Qty 100

 


Uninsulated Butt Connector, 12-10 Wire Size, 0.591" Length, Qty 50

 


Heat shrink wrap (for use over the uninsulated butt connectors)
130 PC. Dual Wall Adhesive Marine Heat Shrink Kit - 3:1 Shrink Ratio – Black

 


I got a crimping tool for uninsulated butt connectors (which is different from the standard crimp for insulated ones) from Lowes for $20 (brand Southwire).

Hydraulic Lines
The pump uses 4 hydraulic lines, which following the video from BMWMazing, I ordered the same ones. The connectors are type 469 and type 716, both are M12x1.0. Here are my order details from www.probrake.de (be sure to click the UK flag in the upper right, it will show the site in English):

Custom steel braided hose, brake-hose clutch-hose, custom made according to your specifications
Shipping time: ca. 1-5 Days 4 39,95 EUR 159,80 EUR
190 cm 4 0,00 EUR 0,00 EUR
F1 type 469 4 3,00 EUR 12,00 EUR
Bare (no jacket) 4 0,00 EUR 0,00 EUR
F2 type 716 4 2,00 EUR 8,00 EUR
Fittings Black 4 0,00 EUR 0,00 EUR
Shipping Worldwide 1 9,95 EUR 9,95 EUR
including 19% VAT.: 30,30 EUR
Gesamtsumme: 189,75 EUR

Converted to USD, it was I think $215, and they shipped to my location in Texas no problem, just took a couple of weeks. The only issue I had was that I guess in Germany the street name comes before the street number, and their website auto-formatted the shipping address in a weird way. I just replied to their order confirmation email and gave them the proper shipping info and it got sorted out no problems.



UPDATE: A later poster on this thread found a good USA based supplier and has details on the line specs from them. Please read further on, I think page 4 or 5 of this thread

Reservoir
I also needed a new reservoir for the SMG pump as the stock one is a molded part of the intake manifold. I ordered the CSL SMG reservoir from ECS Tuning for $125. You could use something else, but I wanted this to look as stock as possible.

Reservoir Mounting
The only issue here is that there is a small molded metal clip which the CSL reservoir is meant to slide into, and it was on backorder at ECS till May. So I made my own using some 18 gauge sheet steel from Lowes). I also had to fab a sheet metal bracket to screw this clip to, which could then been mounted to one of the stock threaded holes in the bay I was mounting all this in. Picture of this are included below. Regarding the tools I used, I picked up a harbor freight vice/anvil for $50, and a small 3 lbs hammer, and a few 3/8” drive extension rods to bend the metal around. I won’t say it was simple and easy, as I have never worked with sheet metal before, but with an hour of time, some patience, and thick gloves (that metal is SHARP!), it all worked out. Oh, to cut the metal I bought an electric sheet metal shearing tool also at harbor freight (you can see it in the pics) also for $50. I used a spare bolt I had to hold the completed bracket securely in a stock mounting whole (threaded) that was unused on the bin’s rear wall.

Pump Mounting
I used a spare bolt I had to hold the sheet metal bracket I fabricated (see images below) securely in a stock mounting whole (threaded) that was unused on the bin’s left (outer) wall.

Accumulator Mounting
So the stock location has a mounting bracket around the accumulator, to prevent stress on its attachment to the pump. I wanted to maintain that. I was actually able to use the stock bracket, just with a longer thicker bolt (without the metal sleeve in the rubber grommet), and I mounted it to the front wall of the bin in a stock threaded location (It’s crazy, there were 4 of these stock mounting locations, pre-threaded, and nothing in them! I guess other regions, right hand drive perhaps, locate more stuff in that bin area on that side of the car? I was happy for it, since I used 3 of the 4 to mount everything I needed).

Methodology
Here is the process I followed:
1. Drove the front wheels up on ramps (I’m 6’2”, and this just gets the engine bay in a better position for me to work in so I don’t have to bend over as much)
2. Discharged the SMG line pressures (it’s at 80 bar, could cut your finger off!). Do this by removing the SMG fuse from the main ECU fuse/relay area (the giant 40A one), which then prevents pump from running. Turn on the ignition, but not start the engine, and shift a few times. After 2 shifts mine stopped shifting, indicating the pressure was mostly released.
3. Removed battery (-) connection (just being safe).
4. Removed air intake system (airbox and intake manifold). Many folks have written great how to’s on this, I won’t repeat it (Pelican Parts has a great write up on their tech articles site titled ‘S54 Engine Intake Manifold Replacement’ under their Z4M section). You need to remove the cabin air filter, the metal tray under it, and more to get this stuff out. It’s an hour job, perhaps more or less though based on your experience level.
5. Removed the air intake mounting bracket (a Y shaped bracket of metal)
6. Removed the accumulator mounting clasp.
7. Removed the 4 hydraulic lines from the pump. They are color coded, both on the original lines, and on the pump. Make sure the painted color on the lines (just a dot really) are visible enough, if not, apply some paint or nail polish to make sure you can get it all reconnected properly. Can’t stress this enough!
8. Metric 11 open end wrench worked for me, they came off pretty easy. You may want to use a set of ‘flare nut wrenches’ which are better than a regular open end. I did by a set of TEKTON ones from amazon, but it only came with 10, 12, 14, and 16mm wrenches…grrrrr. Fortunately, mine came off easily. But I have read of others who had much more trouble, evening needing to heat them with a torch to remove them.
9. Remove the two bolts on the pumps mounting bracket to the pump
10. Had to turn the steering wheel to the right, opening up the driver side wheel bay area, and reach up under the pump mounting area, there is a 10mm bolt holding the pump on from below, mine came off easily
11. Disconnect the SMG pump wiring connector (a round 18 pin connector)
12. SMG pump should pull out now
13. Cleaned up the pump on my workbench
14. Took pictures of the wire connectors, their wire colors, and their locations on the pump.
15. Cut the wiring from the main connector
16. Removed the individual connectors from the pump
17. Measured and cut 5 lengths of 20 AWG GXL (high temp automotive) wiring, 8 feet each
18. Measured and cut 8 lengths of 18 AWG GXL wiring, 8 feet each
19. Measured and cut 2 lengths of 12 AWG GXL wiring, 8 feet each
20. Put uninsulated butt connectors on all wires of the main connector, and same on each wire for the individual connectors. Using proper AWG sized connectors as noted (the pictures below show this, and have descriptive captions of which wires are which gauge).
21. Slip 2 heat-shrink pieces of appropriate size on all the pre-cut wires
22. Crimp all wires to the individual connectors and the main connector
23. Heat shrink over the uninsulated butt connectors on each end.
24. Stretch out the wires, and tape together every 8 inches or so, using 3M high temp electrical tape (super 88)
25. Wrap loom using protective plastic looming material (picked mine up at Frys)
26. Zip tie things together as needed. See pics for final appearance.
27. Bring pump to engine bay, dry fit in the bin, and using cardboard to figure out the sizes and shapes of brackets needed to mount. See pics for my examples.
28. Cut sheet metal using electric shears (or real machining tools if you have them!), and shape using a hammer, anvil, and vice.
29. Drill needed holes using metal cutting bits
30. Degrease the sheet metal, prime using self-etching primer, and paint using high temp paint
31. Allow to dry long enough. Really, very important! Trust me :-/ I had to redo mine…
32. Mount pump bracket and accumulator bracket in the bin, mount pump and accumulator as needed to the brackets.
33. Route loom behind engine and over toward main harness connector in its original location
34. Connect the wiring harness.
35. Connect one hydraulic line at a time. They are color coded, both on the original lines, and on the pump. I used some Teflon tape on the connectors, and tightened snugly. Note that the pump housing is soft aluminum, doesn’t take too much torque. The torque spec for the stock lines to the pump is very low, only 17 NM. I probably over torqued because I didn’t find that value till after I put it all back together. I will loosen and retorque the lines next time I get in there. Probably best to use the same number for the original lines to the new lines also. The Teflon tape will help too with keeping things from leaking.
36. Zip tie and route everything as needed to hold in place. I routed it all behind the engine block, lightly zip tied to the hoses that clip onto the back of the intake manifold. I zip tied the hydraulic lines loosely to a plastic bracket that also holds the heater hoses. I might redo this later to a different location.
37. Reinstall manifold. Not fun, ever. But with patience and some shed skin it doesn’t take too long.
38. Reconnect all electrical connections (fuse, battery).
39. Hook up your computer, ignition to on, and run INPA to bleed the system (both actuators and clutch). Should probably do this 2x. Takes 30-40 minutes I think each time. I only did it once, and think I still had some air in the system.
40. Drive and enjoy!

See pictures for more visual detail. I will edit this as an update to report its effectiveness as an SMG overheating intervention. So far though, things are working great. It’s been a week, and here in Houston Texas it was 85°F in the shade on Tuesday the 7th (yes, it’s February, and yes, it’s hot here, only got to freezing once this whole winter), and though my engine hit close to 210°F on the temp guage, no issues with the SMG! I also have felt under the hood on the pump a few times after some hard driving, and it is staying nice and cool, as are the hydraulic lines. Hopefully this is a long time fix ;-)

Edit: Note that on my wiring, the red ones are 12 AWG, the white ones are 20 AWG, and the black ones are 18 AWG. Also, I took the connector close-up pictures so I would know which connectors went where, with which colored wires. Note also that the connector with 3 wires (the pressure sensor) has a green/white, orange, and brown wire, and that the orange and brown look VERY similar. Use a bright white light and you can just barely tell the difference.

Edit2: I also used this wiki, very useful, in tracking which wires were for which connectors: Burkhart Engineering

I was hoping for a clean, almost stock looking install. I think I'm pretty happy with this!
Feel free to ask any questions if you want, I will do my best to answer. Thanks!


















Last edited by m3vos; Sun, Mar-26-2017 at 09:55:58 PM. Reason: Added SMG manual attachment, and new details
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Old Fri, Feb-10-2017, 08:58:29 PM   #2
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Default SMG Relocation to Engine Bay Side Comparment

Nice work! I need to get this done for or do this for my car as 50c summer is fast approaching
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Old Fri, Feb-10-2017, 09:41:35 PM   #3
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Default Re: SMG Relocation to Engine Bay Side Comparment

Man I can't thank you enough for providing this DIY. I have been waiting for this to pop up for a while now! Outstanding contribution to the SMG community!
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Old Fri, Feb-10-2017, 11:37:41 PM   #4
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Default Re: SMG Relocation to Engine Bay Side Comparment

Excellent!
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Old Sat, Feb-11-2017, 12:52:11 AM   #5
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This is one hell of a 3rd post sir, excellent writeup!
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Old Sat, Feb-11-2017, 01:02:00 AM   #6
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Default Re: SMG Relocation to Engine Bay Side Comparment

Nicely done. You'd think BMW would have done something like this it seems to be a somewhat common thing.
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Old Sat, Feb-11-2017, 01:10:09 AM   #7
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Brilliant!

and ya, Hell of 3rd post sir!
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Old Sat, Feb-11-2017, 01:17:05 AM   #8
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You the man!!!
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Old Sat, Feb-11-2017, 01:20:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3nt0s View Post
This is one hell of a 3rd post sir, excellent writeup!
Well, yeah, I'm more of a reader than a poster ;-)
Joined back in 2010, and figured I finally owed some info since I had gotten so much here from the excellent authors over the years!
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Old Sat, Feb-11-2017, 01:58:55 AM   #10
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Default Re: SMG Relocation to Engine Bay Side Comparment

Do you have pics of where the other hydro lines connected to ? thx
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Discussing SMG Relocation to Engine Bay Side Comparment in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)