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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Tue, Aug-22-2017, 06:43:48 AM   #61
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

My car is fairly low mileage (but in extremely hot weather), I started to get the Cog light last summer but in the winter there were no lights, nothing. Car always operated perfectly even with the cog light on. It was throwing the cog light due to extreme heat here as the temps were north of 115F, sometimes 125F.

Once any of these kits are ready i will be doing the relocation without changing anything on the pump to see if it throws the cog light again. The only and biggest issue I have is due to the delay in release of the one or two kits that I wanted to go with have caused us to almost miss the testing period. July and August are the hottest months here with temps soaring to 125F and holding. So it would have been perfect to drive the car and have the cog light come with the codes etc and record temps of the gearbox/SMG Pump etc all recorded while doing the same after the relocation kit.

The car has only 69,000km on the clock with 99% of that street use. So it would have been a perfect candidate......unfortunately now i'll have to wait till next June, July and August.
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Old Sat, Sep-02-2017, 10:17:18 PM   #62
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

Progress is a little slow on this. Still much faster than I anticipated. Unfortunately VANOS woes have caused some delay. I have to have a functional car before I can put my attention into this project. However, we have recieved the SMG pump, hydraulic lines, and Actuator. We have also taken preliminary measurements for the mounts that will be cut out for an initial mock up.

In the meantime, I wanted to post some pictures of the SMG pump itself. Prior to having one to hold in my hands, the unit seemed somewhat daunting and mysterious to me. The idea of working on it seemed tantamount to diffusing a bomb in my mind. The last thing I want to do is piss off my SMG pump. Now that I have one in front of me, it is surprisingly a very simple piece of machinery and is MUCH less intimidating with it out of the car.

I hope these pictures will be of some use to you all. At the least, they were for me.

SMG Actuator (on the left), SMG Pump Unit (on the right). Flexible and hard hydraulic lines between the two. For a relocation, the Actuator stays in its factory position, the hydraulic lines and wiring harness are extended, and the SMG pump is relocated to the 'Drug-Bin'.



The big round cylinder is the electric brush motor. Overtime, the brushes wear, and the motor fills with carbon dust/debris that eventually build up to the point that the motor burns out. It is held on with 2 torx bolts. VERY easy to swap this out for a Burkhart motor.
On the left are the various (pressure sensors?) Solenoids, as well a temperature sensor. Each of them are also held in with 2 torx bolts each and pullout. I didn't get a picture of them, but each of these solenoids pull out and contain 3 O-rings each. If you plan to replace these, you can order the seals here. The ones on this pump visually look to be an great condition. For $90 bucks for O-rings, I am not sure that replacing these would be necessary for this pump. YMMV.


Here you can see the accumulator (long cylinder). In some cases, the seals wear out leading to an accumulator that cannot store reserve pressure. With the SMG pump out of the car, this can easily be replaced since it is no longer pressurized. There is a single bolt head at the end of the accumulator, with the help of a (padded) vice to hold the unit in place, it can easily be twisted loose if you need to replace the accumulator with a new one (easily diagnosed using INPA or DIS). From the looks of it, I don't see how this part is serviceable if one wanted to swap out the seals with new ones, themselves. The accumulator is easily replaceable though! You can also see the color-coded hydraulic line insertion holes.

Where the wiring harness attaches.



Here is a picture of the other side of the electric motor. You can see that it is only held in place by 2 bolts. I did not take the actual motor apart. If you are going to rebuild your SMG, just replace the motor with a new one. There is no reason to open the old one up. If you look closely at the center of the electric motor, where it connects to the internals of the SMG body housing, you can see what I assume to be carbon debris/build up. If this is the case, I can only imagine how much of it is stuffed up inside the electric motor itself. I suspect this is what caused this pump to fail (along with possibly the accumulator; which I couldn't diagnose with the unit being out of the car).



Once you twist off the Accumulator, you can access all 6 bolts holding the plastic SMG pump 'pentosin reservoir' housing cover to the aluminum block of the SMG pump.
Here is what everything looks like with this housing removed.Not shown in this image is the SMG fluid filter that attaches to the top left hole in the center cylinder piece (not sure the name of this assembly).

The center cylinder piece is assembled with 3 layers. Metal housing caps at each end, and a central gear housing that contains 2 cogs.

The inside of the central gear housing.
You can see the central cog and the oddly scrotal/phallic shaped rubber O-ring gasket.
There are 2 of these,
and 2 cogs (Both halves shown above and below).
Both halves are identical mirror images of each other and fit into each other.

If you plan to replace all the internal seals, you will want to purchase them here. Based on what I could see, these don't look like they need to be replaced. They are well lubricated/hydrated and don't look worn out. Replacing them would be simple, but the seals are VERY expensive. For this pump, I don't think it would be necessary. YMMV.

That is basically the whole until, what remains once fully disassembled is just the aluminum block with the SMG fluid channels. As you can see, the unit is surprisingly simple, with few moving parts. It is so simple, that it surprises me that so many issues can arise from it. The failure points are literally minimized to: Electric motor (easily swapped), the accumulator (easily swapped), temperature sensor/pressure sensors (easily replaceable), and the central 2 moving cogs/seals (easily replaceable but VERY VERY unlikely to be a fail point). It is quite literally that simple of a unit and even more impressive that such a simple 'machine' is responsible for such incredible performance/precision. Nothing about it mechanically seems overly complicated.

Some additional goals of this project:

After taking pictures of everything, I re-assembled the pump so that it could be used to for mocking up the mounting brackets. I would like to take it back apart to record the sizes of all the replaceable O-rings. To my knowledge, the ebayer that I have hyperlinked above, is the only person that carries these viton seals. I have a hard time believing that these seals cost that much. I suspect that there is a high profit margin attached to their for sale price. With the correct seal measurements, I suspect that they could be replaced for pennies on the dollar. We just need to know the sizes, which seems reasonably obtainable.

Here are some mounting orientation ideas. We have both my car (2004 with the completely open 'drug-bin') and we have Idntknow2005's car (2001 with the DSC in the drug-bin). We should be able to make the mounting brackets for the SMG unit to allow for remounting in both cars, regardless if you already have the DSC in this location. There looks to be space for both. With this in mind, if you have a 2003.5 car without the DSC in the 'drug-bin', sharing this location with an oil catch can should not be an issue. I didn't include my car's drug-bin. Its completely empty. Pretty uneventful. But will post pictures after the mounts have been made.
Here are some pictures showing both the DSC and SMG fitting into this location:



You can literally swap out the electric motor, as well as the solenoids and temperature sensor with this orientation in a matter of minutes. The electric motor and these various sensors could not be any more accessible. To swap out the accumulator, one would only need to either bleed the system or release the pressure, unmount the unit from the mounting brackets, and twist off accumulator from the single mounting bolt that holds it on.

You could probably mount a catch can in this location, even if you have BOTH the SMG pump and DSC located here. There seems to be space. I guess we shall see once the lines and brackets are in place.

That is it for now. Hopefully this helps someone understand the inner-workings of the SMG Pump unit, without having one in front of them or taking apart their own. As you can see, it's much less scary looking than (I) anticipated.
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Old Sat, Sep-02-2017, 11:46:03 PM   #63
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

Great post with lots of info. Looking forward to this project
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Old Sun, Sep-03-2017, 09:27:20 AM   #64
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

Fantastic post!! It's amazing how much more it all makes sense when it's off the car


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Old Sun, Sep-03-2017, 06:13:47 PM   #65
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

Interested in seeing where this goes...good luck!
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Old Fri, Sep-08-2017, 10:23:16 PM   #66
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

Any updates guys. My high hot extreme weather testing time is running out or has probably ran out. I really wanted to test this in 125f temps.
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Old Fri, Sep-08-2017, 10:43:21 PM   #67
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

No there isn't, my real work has been getting in the way lately.

I do have the jig made, i do have material to make a few mounting brackets. I do have a local source for the lines. However I have not messed with the electronics yet.

It's all about lack of time lately. Hopefully next week will be better and I'll have time.
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Old Fri, Sep-08-2017, 10:52:07 PM   #68
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by idntknow2005 View Post
No there isn't, my real work has been getting in the way lately.

I do have the jig made, i do have material to make a few mounting brackets. I do have a local source for the lines. However I have not messed with the electronics yet.

It's all about lack of time lately. Hopefully next week will be better and I'll have time.


Sounds great brother. Thanks for the update.
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Old Thu, Sep-14-2017, 04:46:03 AM   #69
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

Interesting
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Old Fri, Oct-06-2017, 10:33:09 PM   #70
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Default Re: Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit

idntknow2005 looking forward to testing this kit out...
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Discussing Designing an SMG Pump Relocation Kit in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)