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Faults, Fixes and DIY Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix!


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Old Thu, Apr-08-2010, 05:13:22 PM   #11
PeteyyPab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrison_va View Post
First I want to thank sddynamix for this write, very detailed and helped me through what was the worst 40 hours of my life!!! Never again.

Congrats It feels great doesnt it! I would do it again! wasnt the worst job I've ever had to do by far!
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In the cool still hours of night, you can still hear my subframe pulling away and my VANOS bolts backing out.

VERT Subframe mount failure confirmed 5/4/2010

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Old Fri, Apr-09-2010, 03:08:50 PM   #12
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What caused you to undetake this? Was there catastrophic transmission failure? Did you get any quotes to have someone else do the work for you?
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Old Fri, Apr-09-2010, 03:15:16 PM   #13
PeteyyPab
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For me it was.. The trans was having trouble shifting in some gears but not all. The Dealership quoted $12000 which I bargained down to $8000 and any shop was going to run at least $6000... I said ahh hell ive done a clutch before here we go!!
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TOTALED: 3/20/2011 - I'll miss you M3, HELLO M5, Looking forward to the journey
In the cool still hours of night, you can still hear my subframe pulling away and my VANOS bolts backing out.

VERT Subframe mount failure confirmed 5/4/2010

Current Fleet:02 M5 Carbon Black - 11 335d M-Sport Alpine White - 89 750iL Salmon Silver - 69 F-100 Ranger Peacock Blue
The ones that got away:02 M3 Vert Jet Black - 04 A4 3.0 Quattro Brilliant Black - 77 Mercedes-Benz 300D Milan Brown Metallic - 02 Range Rover Java Black - 84 Mazda 626 Diesel
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Old Fri, Apr-09-2010, 05:24:21 PM   #14
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I had throwout bearing issues (super noisy when in neutral). I don't live too far from PeteyyPab (SoCal FTW!), so costs for doing the work at a shop are comparable.
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Old Tue, Sep-21-2010, 11:36:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by sddynamix View Post
OK, I know there's a lot of DIY guides that exist for doign a clutch job on a BMW, but nothing specific to the SMG on an E46 M3. I spent a long time compiling this information, so I hope that it's useful to someone else considering this project. Let me begin by saying that this is a pretty massive undertaking, be prepared to set aside several days for this. It's nothing completely detailed (ie, I won't point out exactly where the screws/bolts/nuts are to remove, but they're all fairly straight forward once you start working on the car) but hopefully it'll serve as an overview/guide for those of you that are considering tackling this job.

A quick FAQ:

Can it be done w/o a lift?

Why, yes! I did mine with the car sitting on jackstands.

Do you need special software to reset anything?

YES, you do need to readapt the clutch afterward with software, so you will need access to a GT1, or AutoEnginuity Software w/BMW Enhancement enabled, or equivalent software.

How long does this process take?

It took me 5 days, working about 8 hours each day. It might take you more or less time, depending on the help you have available. Do not attempt this alone. You want to set aside as much time as possible to take things slowly and carefully. This isn't a project you want to rush.

Where are the pictures?

Sorry guys, I had a friend who wanted to take pictures of the whole process that ended up flaking. And I didn't exactly have any desire to gunk up my DSLR with my grimey hands. I'll try my best to describe everything here.

What resources did you have available?

I used the Bentley Manual, TIS, and the Pelican Parts DIY as guides. I also had a fellow forum member who was tremendously helpful, PeteyyPab, who had worked on his SMG clutch months earlier.

Rate the Difficulty Level, on a scale from 1-10.

This isn't a question. But if you put a gun to my head, I'd say 8/10, right on par with what Pelican says, with an oil change falling at 1, suspension replacement at 3, and engine rebuild at 10.


Should you change anything else in the process? Most definitely. Why? Because after you're done you'll likely never want to work on a car ever again. I changed everything on this list:

- OEM Sachs Clutch Kit (Clutch, Throwout Bearing, Pressure Plate) #21212282667
- Clutch Fork (1) #21511223302
- Pivot Pin (1) #21511223328
- Pivot Pin Spring/Clip (1) #21517570284
- Pilot Bearing (1) #11211720310
- Engine Mounts (2) #11812283798
- Transmission Mounts (2) #22322282340
- Guibo (1) #26112226527
- Rear Main Seal (1) #11142247867

In addition I ordered replacement nuts and bolts:
- Thrust Plate Bolts (12) #31106772199
- Flywheel Bolts (8) #11222243051
- Bolts for Guibo (6) #26112283795
- Nuts for Guibo Bolts (6) #07129900047
- Pressure Plate Bolts (6) #21207548052
- Header Bolts (4) #11621318568
- Header Nuts (4) #18301317898
- Header Gaskets (2) #11627830668

Fluids:
- Castrol TWS 10w60 (Motor oil, but you know this) (6) #07510009420
- Pentosin MTF-LT2 (Transmission Fluid), 1 litre bottle (3) #83220309031
- Pentosin CHF-11S (SMG Hydraulic fluid) (1) #82111468041

Special Tools and Misc:
- Clutch Alignment Tool
- Pilot Bearing Puller (Note about this below)
- Flywheel Holder
- Female Torx Socket Set (E6-E16)
- 32mm crescent wrench
- 12mm Hex Key, or Hex Socket
- PB Blaster
- White Lithium Grease
- High-Temp RTV Silicone (for Rear Main Seal)
- Several feet of socket extensions, and 2 u-joints
- AutoEnginuity Scantool with BMW Enhancement, or access to equivalent software
- Transmission Jack

My parts were acquired through Turner Motorsport, Tischer BMW, Pelican Parts. Speciality Tools and Misc. from Kragen, Autozone, Sears, and Harbor Freight.
Now, I'm already assuming you've got a relatively well equiped garage with tools. Air tools will be immensely useful, and if you don't have them already, here's your excuse. 6-point sockets are a must for me as well. I also had two torque wrenches (3/8 and 1/2 drive).


Let me warn you again, this is a pretty massive undertaking. You will need to remove the following major components, before you get to the transmission itself:
- Fan/Clutch
- Intake Manifold
- Underbody Paneling/Thrust Plate
- Exhaust System, from the headers back
- Exhaust Heat Shields

I was a little confused at first when I read that you had to remove the fan and Intake Manifold. I mean, afterall, the transmission is under the center of the car, why on earth would you need to remove the fan and intake manifold?

Simply put, you need access to the area behind the intake manifold to disconnect the transmission casing from the motor. Unless you're very skilled at snaking 3 feet of wobbly extensions whilst sitting awkwardly with your neck tilted funny under the car (this may be easier if you had a lift, I wouldn't know). And the fan? That's just insurance incase your motor tilts forward and crushes it, once the transmission is unloaded from the back of it. Remember, your engine is supported by two mounts (which you'll be removing, if you're replacing them) and WILL rock forward.

Okay, onward! (Let me warn you, this is by no means definitive. You're going to want to reference the Pelican DIY, a Bentley Manual, and even the TIS documentation for details.)
All I can say is HOLY SH**, and thank you! I will probably triple read this and starting getting my parts together because I have to do my rear Main seal. I was thinking the same thing you wrote....might as well do the rest of the stuff while I am under there...5 days of 8 hours each....hhmmm! Not excited but don't want to pay to have it done. Might do the Euro headers while I am at it.
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Last edited by M3Topless_n_SLO; Wed, Sep-22-2010 at 12:11:57 AM.
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Old Tue, Sep-21-2010, 11:52:46 PM   #16
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Set aside plenty of time and have fun with it

We're here if you have questions.
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Old Fri, Oct-15-2010, 02:03:27 AM   #17
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And here we go again. For whatever reason I can tell the throw out bearing has exploded again. Same issue as before, this time with about 10K miles on the new one.

Anyway have any tips on what to look, why this issue has come up yet again... Oh well, at least this time I know how to pull it all apart.

I'm very curious as to why BMW include plastic in this item...
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Old Fri, Oct-15-2010, 02:55:03 AM   #18
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Did you replace everything the last time you were under there? Greased the throwout bearing?
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Old Fri, Dec-24-2010, 06:05:24 AM   #19
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Default Re: DIY Guide: E46 M3 SMG Clutch

Good write up! I'm not sure if I'd want to pay a dealership $12,000 to get it done though

Did you have to take it into the dealership to get the SMG re-programmed with a GT1? Is there any special tool required beside a clutch centering tool?

THanks,

Ming
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Old Fri, Dec-24-2010, 08:44:27 AM   #20
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Default Re: DIY Guide: E46 M3 SMG Clutch

YOu have to take it to a specialist or dealership who have the GT1 tool to bleed and reprogram etc after clutch change
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Discussing DIY Guide: E46 M3 SMG Clutch in the Faults, Fixes and DIY Forum - Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix! at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)