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Old Fri, Aug-24-2018, 05:39:17 PM   #11
T3AMFiSh
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

Checking with my multimeter, with ignition off, checking at the the #4 relay terminal with relay plugged in, I’m getting 5.4v, #30 is 14.2v and both 87 terminals show 37.8v.

Moving over to the 5 fuse pack, #10 and #9 show 14.2v and all others 37.8v. Is this right??

With ignition ON, terminal #4 reads 4.9v, terminal 30 12.5v 87’s 58.7v

5fuse pack, #10/9 12.5v all others 58.7v

Something has to be wrong here

Last edited by T3AMFiSh; Fri, Aug-24-2018 at 05:43:16 PM.
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Old Fri, Aug-24-2018, 06:41:19 PM   #12
geargrndr
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
Something has to be wrong here
For sure it is. Clearly somethings wrong in the car but you still may have something wrong w/ your testing / diagnosis.

Lets step into it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
#4 relay terminal with relay plugged in, I’m getting 5.4v,
Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
With ignition ON, terminal #4 reads 4.9v,
So, as the relay trigger pin for a ground-switched relay, that should show (BTW I know this is a little counter-intuitive, but remember its switching the GROUND side.... so there will be power until its switched ON):

Ig off: 12+V (from your other readings it seems you should see prob 14.2V there)
Ig on: 0V (or at least some tiny insignificant amount of volts).

This is where I told you you could jump to ground. Seems like maybe you still didn't understand...

If you jumper that pin 4 directly to ground, all those other fuses should power up. For some reason the DME is not doing that perhaps the semi-conductor that drives that pin got burned out from a temporary wiring mistake... (tends to happen in swaps sometimes...)

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
#30 is 14.2v
Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
terminal 30 12.5v
GOOD! This is good. Relay is getting proper voltage supply. Those are plausibly correct readings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
both 87 terminals show 37.8v.
Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
87’s 58.7v
Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
all others 37.8v.
Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
all others 58.7v
Nope. No they don't. All those things are physically impossible. There is no 37V or 58V possible, at all, whatsoever, in the car, unless you've connected a DC Welder directly to it and turned it on or something .

Does perhaps your meter auto-range, and is it actually showing 37/58 mV and not full volts? Some stray phantom micro/millivolts when in reality there's no voltage supply is not out of the question due to ground loops and stray inductance and whatnot.

All those fueses should be showing:

Ig Off: 0V (or at very most some teensy stray millivoltage)
Ig On: 12+V (apparently 12.5V from your other readings)

Quote:
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#10 and #9 show 14.2v
Quote:
Originally Posted by T3AMFiSh View Post
5fuse pack, #10/9 12.5v
Those are probably fine, off top of my head I don't know what 9/10 are but they seem to be constant powered and those are appropriate voltages for a tip-top charged resting battery and then perhaps same battery w/ some loads turned on.
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Old Fri, Aug-24-2018, 07:26:32 PM   #13
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

Yeah I didn’t see the small “m” light up in front of the V when Checking, all this elarge #’ are infact mV

For the ground that you told me to do, with the relay in, I ran a wire under the relay black connector attached to the 4 terminal, and ran the other end to a known good growind. As so as it hit the ground I heard it click. Then I tried to start the car and it does the same thing, crank no start, should I be attaching the ground wire another way instead?

Last edited by T3AMFiSh; Fri, Aug-24-2018 at 07:30:07 PM.
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Old Fri, Aug-24-2018, 07:50:10 PM   #14
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

OK so when you ground it you can check those other fuses for power, and then you can check to see that you have power at injectors and coils and all that good stuff. And you can try to talk to the DME to scan for codes... Part of the idea there was to see if you can see the DME once the relay is turned on...
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Old Fri, Aug-24-2018, 08:03:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

Ok, I’ll check it
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Old Fri, Aug-24-2018, 08:17:38 PM   #16
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

Yep no communication via INPA
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Old Sat, Aug-25-2018, 06:31:42 PM   #17
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

Seriously lost on this one. Some one will get PayPal’d 100$ I’d they can figure it out
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Old Sun, Aug-26-2018, 02:08:56 PM   #18
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

I missed (or forgot..?) that you already sent this DME out and it can be bench-read fine.

Before I get into it, I suspect you have a wiring harness problem. I'm gonna guess something is shorted or melted or has come loose somehow. The fact that you neither get a start, nor does the main ECU relay get triggered, nor can you connect to the DME suggests something significant is wrong.

1. Have you pulled and inspected and reconnected all the connectors in the adapter harness?

2. Did you bother to check the ACTUAL power at the relay output pins and fuse block with the jumper in place, or did you just try and start the car and walk away when it didn't magically work?
Critical to know if you getting good solid voltage at those fuses after you hear the relay click. That's fundamental. Please try to follow through on the diag steps, you're just wasting trips out to the car by not checking this stuff in detail each time. To make it painfully clear...

With the relay 'hot wired', first, do you indeed get power at the relay output pins (2 & 5)?
Then, if so, do you have power then at the fuse block which connects to those output pins?
3. The other external relay that the DME activates is the fuel injector relay. That is via X60001 (9-pin black) pin 1.
That one is not ground-switched so to hot-wire test it is a bit more tricky, you'd need to supply it with power. Or at least as step one you can see if its currently supplied with power when the ignition is turned on.
4. The fact that the starter turns should mean that the DME is booting up - assuming you haven't done some kind of DME-starter-relay-bypass as part of the conversion? What's the convention for E36 swap starter activation? If the starter relay is powered directly from the ignition key, then that tells us nothing...
On your DME connectors, ignition on, and with your relay-hot-wire jumper in place, the power supply should be:

X60001 9-pin black - power at pins 7 & 8, ground at pins 4, 5, 6

X60004 40-pin black - power at pin 26

X60005 9-pin black - ground at pin 5
Like I say, given that you can't comm w/ the DME but it tests Ok on the bench, and its not turning on relays... that seems to imply multiple connections are not being made (or the DME is really fried and the bench test was flawed...)
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Old Sun, Aug-26-2018, 02:21:01 PM   #19
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

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Ok update:

Got a proper multimeter that will beep for continuity. With the x60002 plug off the DME, I hooked a single wire to the pin 23, ran it to a known good ground.

Tested continuity first with ignition OFF, continually beeeeeeps.
Tested continuity with ignition ON, no change, continually beeeeeeps.

So from my feable understanding of wiring, I guess this means my DME is the problem?
Going back to this post, I think I had initially misread it.

Get your multimeter, connect one end to Pin 23, and the other end to a known ground. Leave pin 23 floating otherwise (rather than running it to a ground). Check continuity and voltage with ignition on and off.
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Old Mon, Aug-27-2018, 05:37:46 PM   #20
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Default Re: no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME

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Originally Posted by terraphantm View Post
Going back to this post, I think I had initially misread it.

Get your multimeter, connect one end to Pin 23, and the other end to a known ground. Leave pin 23 floating otherwise (rather than running it to a ground). Check continuity and voltage with ignition on and off.
Ok for this test:

X60002 unplugged, attached 1 wire to pin 23, tested with ignition OFF:
No continuity beep from meter
Ignition ON, no continuity beep

X60002 unplugged, 1 wire from pin 23, ignition OFF no volts seen
X60002 unplugged, 1 wire from pin 23, ignition ON no volts seen
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Discussing no power at pin 23, crank no start, no power to DME in the Coding and Tuning Forum - Discuss all avenues of coding and tuning here! at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)