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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Jul-07-2017, 10:47:25 PM   #11
Kdubski
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

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Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
Threads like this remind me why I like replacing all my bushings/bearings at once, instead of trying to hunt down issues.

My advice would be to replace all the wear items you haven't replaced (and replace all the ones you used crappy pats on again) and enjoy the car for years without any weird handling issues.
Fortunately, I only use OEM or OE. The only things not replaced, are the front strut bearing, and sway bar bushings, which I don't think would affect the alignment. Especially because things like strut hats fail in pairs, or if one is seriously worn, the other is just about the same.
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Old Fri, Jul-07-2017, 10:53:57 PM   #12
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

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Originally Posted by M3 dude View Post
what alignment settings did they use? and what tyres are you running

sticking caliper, road lean and a worn component somewhere will throw the tracking out.
They used the stock E46 M3 setting I'm assuming.
- Hankook Ventus V12's w/ 30% thread. Swapped tires left to right to make sure not worn tire issue
-FCAB, RTAB, Struts, sway bar end links all done in the last 700 miles.
-Haven't checked for sticking caliper but not likely cause no excessive brake dust
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Old Fri, Jul-07-2017, 11:08:25 PM   #13
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

There is enough plus/minus tolerance in the stock specs to account for an alignment pull, yet still be within spec... they should give you a printout of the before and after readings. If you have it, post it up!
The early electronic aligners did need to be calibrated occasionally, like every time you drop the F'n head... but the later digital imaging aligners ("laser", but not really...) do stay in calibration pretty well. That's from my Hunter rep, who was STUNNED when I wanted him to come out to recalibrate mine. The machine was fine, the race team just wasn't using it right.
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Old Sat, Jul-08-2017, 01:30:16 AM   #14
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I have been doing my own alignments for 3 years now. Takes me about 1-2 hours depending on how many adjustments you need to make. I have always been happy with myself...no reworks.

Just need:
  • A flat and level floor
  • Two 8' pieces of conduit
  • Jack stands
  • String
  • Level
  • Tape measure
  • 2"x2" wood cut to the outer diameter of the wheels
  • iPhone or protractor.
  • Wax paper
I NEED to get off my ass and figure this out as I take my cars apart way too often and alignments add up quick.

So it really turns out that good, eh?

I'm going to PM you soon and pick your brain a little on the setup/procedure.
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Old Sat, Jul-08-2017, 03:03:09 AM   #15
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

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Originally Posted by EricSMG View Post
I NEED to get off my ass and figure this out as I take my cars apart way too often and alignments add up quick.

So it really turns out that good, eh?

I'm going to PM you soon and pick your brain a little on the setup/procedure.
Camber and caster are easy. Camber is set. You can measure camber by laying something flat against the wheel and measure the angle with a protractor.

Toe is the pain. You need to create two lines parallel and level lines to the car's frame. Preferably near the centerline of the wheels. Parallel is the key. I used two pieces of conduit at the front and rear of the car. Made sure they were square and ran string down the sides. You could probably use lasers as well. You measure the distance between the line at the front and back of the wheel. Then figure out the difference in degrees.

The pain is if you need to make to adjustments. You need to jack up the car, make the adjustments, lower the car, roll it and then set up your lines and measure.

I really want to make some hub stands which would make doing a home alignment super duper easy. Might be worth buying those BBX hub stands for $1000 in the long run. Figure 6-7 alignments?

I need to align my E46 when I'm done with the roll cage. I can post up a DIY.
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Old Sat, Jul-08-2017, 03:10:28 AM   #16
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

Totally, rear toe is 95% of the hassle. I get the general concept and thanks for the details, I'll give it a shot.
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Old Sat, Jul-08-2017, 03:41:50 AM   #17
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

Home alignment is totally do able!
When I worked at the dealer, I caught their alignment machine out of cal by checking it against my home numbers... took a LOT of persuading to have them get it checked.
Sure enough...
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Old Sat, Jul-08-2017, 04:38:29 AM   #18
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

Yeah, I've not done "string and chalk" work, but know guys who have cut old frame cars in half and welded new rear sections on with this 4 wheel method with no issues. Some of the newer equipment I expect may read out more digits than their calibration is good for after a few uses/and or 20 degrees in temp difference from the calibration, as one example. And many don't understand significant digits in measurements. We put people in space with 3 significant digits, and this pretty much holds true for nearly any practical, repeatable measurements outside of a lab environment when people are moving things manually.

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Originally Posted by nowanker View Post
Home alignment is totally do able!
When I worked at the dealer, I caught their alignment machine out of cal by checking it against my home numbers... took a LOT of persuading to have them get it checked.
Sure enough...
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Old Sat, Jul-08-2017, 04:51:27 AM   #19
EricSMG
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

Using a 19in wheel and converting degrees to mm, I'm seeing that the factory toe settings convert to roughly 1mm front and 2mm rear.

Using a ruler or tape measure, I don't see getting much more precise than that - you pretty much have 0, 1mm or 2mm.
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Old Sat, Jul-08-2017, 05:43:49 AM   #20
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Default Re: Weighted Alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricSMG View Post
Using a 19in wheel and converting degrees to mm, I'm seeing that the factory toe settings convert to roughly 1mm front and 2mm rear.

Using a ruler or tape measure, I don't see getting much more precise than that - you pretty much have 0, 1mm or 2mm.

I used a 1/16" tape measure. The front is easy because you pretty much want zero toe so your measurement front and rear should be equal.

You do want toe in at the rear. I forget off the top of my head but I think I dialed in 1/16" toe in on the rear axle on my E90.

Just want to point out that it is imperative that your string, laser or whatever is square to the chassis. If it's at an angle, you'll get zero toe but the car will travel straight and the chassis will travel at an angle aka crabbing down the highway.

In other words...you will look totally ridiculous and you don't want that.


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Discussing Weighted Alignment in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)