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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 02:36:58 AM   #1
GR///M3
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Default rear coil spring removal and re-install help.....

i did several searches, and from what i can see, most ppl are letting the rear control arms come down far enough to remove the rear coil springs (unbolt both shocks, not just one ?)

i have new OEM springs i want to install, i just did my rear shocks today, which was easy with the exception of the stereo installation in my trunk that made removing the trunk liner a royal PITA.....

anyway, i was wondering if there is a good tool that works really well for removing and reinstalling the coil springs ? i tried the autozone stuff, the one tool they had would not do the job or go on right.....this is the tool that has one hook block on each end and goes on the outsides of the spring. i tried it with one of the springs and it scratched off the protective coating on the spring. so now i MUST replace the spring with a new one because it's going to rust.

they had another one that has 2 hooks on each end and the threaded bolt that goes inside the spring, but i didn't think it would work, so i skipped it.

trying to avoid bringing both control arms down so low that it could damage the c/v joints.....so i am looking for a tool that can go on these springs and get them off. i am looking for something that works in the confines of this specific model (e46 M3)....

any advice/input would be awesome, thanks....
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Last edited by GR///M3; Wed, Nov-11-2009 at 02:41:14 AM.
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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 02:40:50 AM   #2
Jackeatsemokids
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Pry bar. And I'm not kidding. You won't damage the CV joint. Two people are required for this job to be easy.
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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 02:47:50 AM   #3
GR///M3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackeatsemokids View Post
Pry bar. And I'm not kidding. You won't damage the CV joint. Two people are required for this job to be easy.
pry bar might damage the coating on the new springs on reinstall....

looking for a tool, so that i can keep it around for diy, i have 2 other cars, could come in handy....
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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 02:59:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GR///M3 View Post
pry bar might damage the coating on the new springs on reinstall....

looking for a tool, so that i can keep it around for diy, i have 2 other cars, could come in handy....

33 53 000 Removing and installing / replacing rear left or right coil spring

Important!
Except M model: Both coil springs on the relevant axle must be replaced only in the event of corrosion breakage!
M model: For safety reasons, both coil springs on the relevant axle must always be replaced on motorsport vehicles!

Necessary preliminary tasks:
Remove rear wheel.
Remove output shaft from rear differential and tie back
Remove stabilizer on relevant side from rear axle carrier
If necessary, remove jointed rod from sensor lever of ride-height sensor


Detach panel from fuel tank (in rear area).
Important!
Brake hose must not be exposed to tensile loads!
Release screw and remove bracket with brake hose.

Warning!
Danger of injury!
Failure to comply with the following instructions may result in the vehicle slipping off the lifting platform and critically injuring other persons.
When supporting components, make sure that
the vehicle can no longer be raised or lowered
the vehicle does not lift off the locating plates on the lifting platform


Support trailing arm with a workshop jack (1).
Release screw.
Lower workshop jack (1).
Installation:
Thrust washer (2) on rubber bearing must point to screw head.
Tighten bolt in normal position.
Tightening torque, 33 52 1AZ.

Press trailing arm downwards.
Pull out barrel spring to the side.
Remove upper spring pad (1) from take-up locator/frame side member.
Installation:
Position coil spring with upper spring pad (1) on lower spring pad (2) mounted in control arm and align to take-up locator/frame side member.
Raise trailing arm using a workshop jack.

Important!
Spring pads must be positively seated in the take-up locator/frame side member or control arm to prevent the coil spring from springing out of the centering mount.
Note:
Version with rough road package: upper spring pad is 14.5 mm thick.

Installation:
Check spring mounts (1, 3) for damage, replace if necessary.
Attach spring mount at top (1) to coil spring (2).

After installation:
Check headlight adjustment, correct if necessary

Straight from BMW.

Unless you want to remove the axle. Just use a pry bar. I have yet to damage a coating on a spring doing that.

I don't know of any small spring compressors either. I wish I could be more helpful in this.
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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 03:09:27 AM   #5
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I used a stiff long screw driver and it worked fine. Another person would be even better.
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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 03:30:10 AM   #6
GR///M3
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackeatsemokids View Post
33 53 000 Removing and installing / replacing rear left or right coil spring

Important!
Except M model: Both coil springs on the relevant axle must be replaced only in the event of corrosion breakage!
M model: For safety reasons, both coil springs on the relevant axle must always be replaced on motorsport vehicles!

Necessary preliminary tasks:
Remove rear wheel.
Remove output shaft from rear differential and tie back
Remove stabilizer on relevant side from rear axle carrier
If necessary, remove jointed rod from sensor lever of ride-height sensor


Detach panel from fuel tank (in rear area).
Important!
Brake hose must not be exposed to tensile loads!
Release screw and remove bracket with brake hose.

Warning!
Danger of injury!
Failure to comply with the following instructions may result in the vehicle slipping off the lifting platform and critically injuring other persons.
When supporting components, make sure that
the vehicle can no longer be raised or lowered
the vehicle does not lift off the locating plates on the lifting platform


Support trailing arm with a workshop jack (1).
Release screw.
Lower workshop jack (1).
Installation:
Thrust washer (2) on rubber bearing must point to screw head.
Tighten bolt in normal position.
Tightening torque, 33 52 1AZ.

Press trailing arm downwards.
Pull out barrel spring to the side.
Remove upper spring pad (1) from take-up locator/frame side member.
Installation:
Position coil spring with upper spring pad (1) on lower spring pad (2) mounted in control arm and align to take-up locator/frame side member.
Raise trailing arm using a workshop jack.

Important!
Spring pads must be positively seated in the take-up locator/frame side member or control arm to prevent the coil spring from springing out of the centering mount.
Note:
Version with rough road package: upper spring pad is 14.5 mm thick.

Installation:
Check spring mounts (1, 3) for damage, replace if necessary.
Attach spring mount at top (1) to coil spring (2).

After installation:
Check headlight adjustment, correct if necessary

Straight from BMW.

Unless you want to remove the axle. Just use a pry bar. I have yet to damage a coating on a spring doing that.

I don't know of any small spring compressors either. I wish I could be more helpful in this.
no wonder the dealer is a rip off....i bet they use a bar too and maybe charge for this whole proceedure ?

so if i wish to use the bar method, how do i make my life easy, unbolt both struts at the control arms, then support one of them with a jack slightly lowering it down ?

if so, how far down would you consider safe for the c/v joints ?
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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 03:34:10 AM   #7
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you don't need anything...remove wheel, unbolt bottom of rear shock, push down on rear rotor hat with your foot while holding onto the edge of the wheel well to get leverage, if the spring doesn't fall out by itself get someone to pull it out while you push down on the rotor...on reinstall, put the top rubber piece in the car first, push down on the rotor, put the new coil in, pull down on the rear shock until the holes line up and thread the bolt
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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 04:30:33 AM   #8
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I just put my OEM suspension back in 3 days ago.
I removed the axle from the differential...
Couldn't pull the bolt out for the lower control arm to subframe without that clearance.
But, if you aren't replacing your lower control arms, it should be fine to just loosen the bolts on both shocks and bring the upper control arm down enough to pull out the old spring and fit in the new.
I could not get the upper control arm low enough with just one side down.
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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 12:19:34 PM   #9
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Try this, http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=179844. Both rear wheels should be off the ground so the trailing arm will be at its lowest position. Anyway, it should give you a general idea of what to do using a pry bar. Instead of prying it out, you can use it to "persuade" the assembly to move down enough for you to put that spring in there. And as mentioned at above posts, an extra set of hands would definitely make your task easier not to mention safer.
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Old Wed, Nov-11-2009, 01:51:30 PM   #10
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I undid both shock to control arm bolts and made sure the parking brake was off and it was easy enough to pull them out by hand.

The underside of the car has a liner piece that the control arm rests on, preventing it from dropping too far down. I didn't need to (or want to) stand on the control arm or anything crazy like that. If you're going to use a pry bar/lever, use it to push the spring up into the car, that way you aren't putting extra force on the control arm going down.

EDIT: when I was reinstalling, I left the lower rubber piece on the spring itself, angled the upper part of the spring into the rubber piece on the shock mount and then just slowly worked the bottom back into place. Squeeze/lift up, scoot the bottom over a bit, repeat until the rubber piece sat in the correct spot.
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Discussing rear coil spring removal and re-install help..... in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)