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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 07:55:34 AM   #1
BMWMarine
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Default 20K Budget for complete overhaul! Need some advice!

First and foremost I would like to thank everyone in advance for any help or advice you guys can give me. I'll go ahead and give you all some background info on my car to give you guys a better picture of my situation.

I am the proud owner of an Alpine Wiess 98 BMW M3. Here is a link to my car on cardomain.com with some of the mods and a few pictures: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2915275. Sorry I would post some pictures of the interior but my hard drive with all my pictures crashed on me. I purchased the car back in Feb of 2007 with 82k miles on it. Since then it has been through a lot, both good and bad. I'll start with the bad lol. All my repairs were done by one mechanic until I realized I had made a bad choice in choosing the right guy to work on my ride. The first thing that happened was when I bent my valves during a miss shift and had to rebuild my head. Had my first mechanic do the work on the rebuild as far as dis-assembly and reassembly. Resurfacing and all that was done somewhere else. The second bad thing that happened was when I decided to upgrade my stock fly wheel to a 8.5 lb stage 2 and to also get a high performance organic clutch from UUC. Once again the same mechanic did the work. After about a month of having it installed the damn fly wheel came loose in the freeway as I was driving home and sounded like my car was about to explode! Enough was enough! After I got it to a reputable mechanic, who worked on nothing but BMW, we found out that the previous mechanic forgot to use THREAD LOCK ON THE BOLTS!!! The brand new clutch was toast but luckily the fly wheel was undamaged. Yeah...I was pissed. So as my mechanic was looking over my car he also ran a few diagnostics and came up with a few errors. Come to find out my previous mechanic also messed up on the assemble of the head so my timing was a little off . So I gave the new mechanic the go ahead to replace the clutch and to take the head off and fix that issue as well. A week later I gave my new mechanic a visit to see how thing were going. He informed me that the vanos was giving him a hard time. Something about having a minimum of 8 mm and maximum of 11 mm of play. He told me the best he could get it to was to 8.5 mm. I asked if we should replace it or rebuild it and he said that there shouldn't be a problem with the way it is. Once I got my ride back it was running smoother than it ever had. No problems whatsoever. Moving ahead 4 months. I had driven from LA to San Jose to see my cousins before I had to deploy to Iraq. On the way back from San Jose (about 147 miles from LA) disaster struck again. I was doing about 100 trying to get my ass home when a 6.0 Pontiac GTO came up right behind me. So I signal and move over to the slower lane to let him pass. What does he do? He pulls up next to me and signals a race. It was like 2 in the morning with just us two. So we go at it and I take it up to 162 (Delimited via Conforti Shark injector and speed verified on GPS). At about 145 I started to pass him more than likely because he was limited. So I slow all the way back down to 100. Here is the part that you have been waiting for...I decided to down shift from 5th gear to 4th. My redline in 4th is at about 120 miles an hour. When I down shifted my revs peaked and I immediately stomped on the clutch. With my foot on the clutch I verified that I was in 4th gear and not 2nd. I put it in 5th and the entire car started shaking like crazy and it felt like it was running on 3 cylinders (it was). At this point you could find my heart in my boxers. I took the nearest exit and made it to a gas station. I popped the hood and took a look. Nothing visibly wrong. So I got back in and tried to start it. Now the car wouldn't start. After several tries it finally fired up. My dumb ass decided to drive it home like that. Needless to say I made it home (147 miles) on 3 cylinders. The next day I was able to drive it to a mechanic up my block. We did a pressure test and found out that 3 of the cylinders had 0 compression. If I remember correctly they were cylinders 2, 4, and 5. I decided to let it sit for a while because I was tight on money. The only thing I can think of is that the vanos succumbed to the stress and threw off the timing on the valves causing them to bend. What do you guys think? Two weeks later I deployed to Iraq. This was in December of 2007. When I returned from my deployment I had two choices, fix the car or buy a different car and fix the M3 later. So I bought an E39 M5. The M5 was a great car with a ton of power but it just didnít feel as nimble and spirited as my M3. I got rid of it after a year because it started giving me problems and it was burning as much oil as it was gas. Did the research and found out that the early models had some kind of issue with the piston rings. Anyways back to my point. My M3 has been sitting covered up since Nov of 2007 and I want to get it up and running again. Iím stuck in Afghanistan so my brother and my best friend are going to oversee everything while Iím over here. I want to have it up and running by early January when I get back home for R&R.

Here is where I need some advice. Since Iím going to fix it I figured I would add some power to it while Iím at it. Now I have a 20k budget to play with. The first thing obviously is to get it running but there are a few other things I want to do to it as well. What can I do to the engine with 20K to include the following parts, labor, towing etc.? Keep in mind these are the essentials.

-Rolling rear fenders again because my tires still rub (includes painting the fenders)
-New tires because of dry rot. 265/30 18ZR rears and 235/35 18ZR fronts
-Full system flush i.e. cooling system, break system, dif, etc
-Battery (Optima)
-Breaks (Rotors and Pads). I would prefer to get a big break kit.

These are just a few things I can come up with. I know I need to change out other things because it has been sitting for such a long time but I donít know what those things are. What do you guys recommend? The chassis and suspension has 102K miles on it. So I know I need to get to that too but its not necessary to get it up and running. The following is on my wish list but again not priority.

-Suspension (adjustable coilovers, bushings, front and rear strut bars, sway bar)
-Full exhaust
-Short shifter (UUC)

So what should I do guys? Better yet what can I do with my budget? I donít even know the extent of the damage. Should I have it rebuilt? Euro engine? Drop in a V8? Turbo or supercharge? Can you guys recommend some reputable shops in Southern CA who specialize in this kind of work? I know itís a lot to do but I really need some help. I appreciate everything. Please help me get my baby on the road again.
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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 09:08:02 AM   #2
shirazi89
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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 09:31:17 AM   #3
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As long as you know that is 20K that will never be seen again. I'd drop a used engine in the car, polish it and sell it, then buy a 20K car with about 25,000 miles and make sure it is up to date on everything.
If you want a crazy fast M3, I think the LSX engine swap will be the most easy car to live with. I would also avoid super low profile 18's. Get light 17's with great rubber.

No more money shifts, thanks for your service Overseas!!
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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 11:27:05 AM   #4
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I use this shop in Burbank for maintenance: Alfa Italia. Their rates are lower than the M Shop. I haven't emailed them before, but whenever I call on the phone, they pick it up.

The following is relatively inexpensive if you have a 20k budget.
Quote:
-Rolling rear fenders again because my tires still rub (includes painting the fenders)
-New tires because of dry rot. 265/30 18ZR rears and 235/35 18ZR fronts
-Full system flush i.e. cooling system, break system, dif, etc
-Battery (Optima)
For the BBK, do you need front and rear? Front Brembos can be about $3k brand new but about half as much if you find a used one (estimated prices for e46 M3, though).

If you get a BBK then you may have to use the 18" wheels instead of 17" wheels for clearance. Also the wheels must have a correct offset and be wide enough to clear the BBK.

I recommend fixing the car up to stock and then drive it for a while to make sure there's nothing else wrong with it. Then you can add a supercharger. That is, unless you do an engine swap.
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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 12:39:37 PM   #5
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Even if the vanos dies, it isn't going to take the engine with it. It just quits working. You money shifted again...

Use some of the money to buy wheels and tires that fit. who the heck needs 265-30-18's in the back and ...> never mind...

To go 162 in a 97 M3 with 265-30-18's you have to turn 7250 rpm. Jim don't do that...

Here's what i would do.

Fix the engine once again. Replace the engine, and transmission mounts and the shifter bushings. Watch the video of how to shift on UUC's web site. You are probably looking at about $3K to fix or replace the engine.

You're looking at maybe another $1-1.5K for the other stuff.

With the rest of the $20K (SRB money?) Save it. Invest it. Start NOW so that if you happen to live to retirement, you will have something more than Social Security...

Grow a brain, and get some therapy. Obviously being deployed has left you with some issues. Max speed (whatever it was) at night is a very quick way to kill yourself or even worse, somebody else.


You already have a big break kit...lol You want a big BRAKE kit.
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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 12:46:15 PM   #6
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oh wow... where do I go with this?

how much power do u want?
do u want to spend all 20K on the car? (that would be SUPER easy)


I know someone with a very nice Eurosport Twinscrew car, with ALL the mods, and everything you are looking for. I know he has wheels/BBK/the twinscrew, and some other stuff all for sale..

buy a s52, get it installed with the Eurosport twinscrew that he has for sale, and then you can buy the coilovers, and the stoptech BBK he has as well. Get a full cooling system overhaul, buy the BBS wheels/tires he has as well, and start beating the crap out of the car

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=335574

link to his FS ad, with all the links to the individual parts he has. Buy them all, and get on it
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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 02:01:55 PM   #7
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Dump the motor. It's more trouble than it's worth to pay someone to troubleshoot it, take it apart, ect. Find yourself a good used S52 from a reputable source, have that installed with a SC of your choice (Jon's twinscrew would be nice). Have the oil pump nut secured while the motor is still out. Have the oil pan ballfed while the motor is still out.

Replace all the rubber under the car. New suspension of your choice (what will the car be used for, what do you want out of it?). Have the RTAB pocket, rear subframe, and front subframe reinforcements put in. Have a diff support bracket put in.

You don't need 265s back there. Flaring the fenders for them accrues a needless cost.

BBK would be nice if you want to spend the cash. After that, i'd replace anything that needs it cosmetically or mechanically. Have the car professionally detailed when it's done being worked on.

I don't think you should spend anywhere near $20K on the car though. You should have plenty of money left over.
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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 03:12:39 PM   #8
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I never knew John's car has a TwinScrew? Cool.
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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 03:39:04 PM   #9
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is the twinscrew OEM?
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Old Mon, Sep-27-2010, 03:51:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salty View Post
I never knew John's car has a TwinScrew? Cool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by das borgen View Post
is the twinscrew OEM?
1) JV's car does not have a TS, his (2nd) E36 M3 that he has, has a TS. He is parting out the second E36 M3 from my understanding

2) The TS is NOT OEM. BMW didnt make an OEM TS It's the Eurosport TS, and probably the "best" TS for the E36 in terms of reliability and performance and customer service
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Discussing 20K Budget for complete overhaul! Need some advice! in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)