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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. |
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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
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Thinking ahead to the winter maintenance for my m3: should I rebuild the calipers? I'm planning on doing pads (needed) and most likely rotors.
The calipers feel fine and the car brakes in a straight line. Any thoughts? Or is this a worthless activity. |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
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My experience tells me don't rebuild the calipers unless they're actually sticking. You may well cause them to stick if you rebuild them unnecessarily.
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#3 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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Concur. I am rebuilding all 4 corners right now but the calipers are in pretty bad shape. If the dust boots are intact and the pistons move freely no reason to rebuild. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#4 |
Buildjournal
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No need if the pistons are moving freely, a nice trick is to use titanium shims to avoid frequent caliper rebuilds.
The titanium shields keeps the heat on the brake pads and rotors which is rated for heat. These shims serves as a thermal barrier to the pistons which the seals are in contact with as well as the brake fluid.
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IG: @tr4ckM3 B-Spec Tune 2002 BMW E46 M3 6MT | B-Spec Tune + ProFlex Commander E70 315whp/242wtq 2013 BMW F30 335i 8AT | BM3 E30 Stg 2 Tune 367whp/457wtq |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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I bought my car in 2012. Have never had issues with brakes but decided to replace seals and boots this week. I have 4 pot BBK in front and OEM tears. It wasn’t very difficult. I’d look at your boots and if in tact, don’t worry.
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#67 2017 NASA TX TT3 Champion FLMS Half Cage, RaceTech 4009HR drivers seat, Schroth 6-Pt Harness, E.S.S. Fire System, AIM SOLO DL with ECU Harness, SmartyCam, Angle Aluminum with VAC dead pedal, Sparco Steering Wheel on MOMO hub, MCS Suspension, Hyperco 800F 900R springs, Hotchkis Front and Rear Sway bars, Vorshlag Camber Plates, Turner ARCA, AJ Hartman Front Splitter, BW V2 Wing, BW CF Rear Diffuser, APEX ARC-8 wheels, Brembo BBK Front, Carbon Fiber Roof, CF Headlight Blanks, Door Windows and Cards Delete, TMS rear and front subframe reinforcement, Zionsville Competition Cooler, BW Oil Cooler, Oil Diverter Valve, Motorsports Thermostat, Evolve CF Intake, Epic Stepped Headers, Turner Pulleys, BW 3.5" Race Exhaust, EPIC Alpha N Tune, Beisan Oil Disk and Vanos Seals, ZF 5MT, CAE Ultra Shifter My track journal: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=509148 |
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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The pistons move with just finger pressure. I never needed the mechanical spreader I bought. Now, I am glad I bought the shims shortly after I got the BBK.
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#7 |
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Shouldn’t be an issue unless they’ve seen excessive heat. Signs would be brake fluid boiling or crispy dust boots.
Or if some ape used a screw driver to compress the piston to replace the pads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2016
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Seven posts and nobody mentioned to flush the brake fluid? You guys are slacking.
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2001 m3 No options, no frills, slicktop!!! |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Excessive heat and disuse are the two things that seem to push calipers into needing rebuilds.
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#10 | |
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