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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Sat, May-27-2017, 10:54:51 PM   #21
aznniche
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison

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Originally Posted by 2006E46M3fan View Post
This is what I'm now trying to find out.
If only we had a set of WPC and OEM bearings with the same mileage.. I'm still surprised how the treatment wore off in only 15K daily driver miles.

I'll post up what 212K rod bearings look like, and to be honest, it doesn't look bad at all for that mileage. Worn as expected, but no copper was showing.
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Old Sun, May-28-2017, 12:17:50 PM   #22
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison

Updated the original thread with images and videos of my adventure!
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Old Sun, May-28-2017, 12:22:08 PM   #23
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison

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Originally Posted by 2006E46M3fan View Post
This is what I'm now trying to find out.
In theory, WPC should be better since it is OEM, but with the surface treatment. Until we have a direct comparison, we won't know the wear rate on both.

From the look of my bearings, OEM last for >200k miles so you can't go wrong with that. This will probably be the last time I change them out on this car.
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Old Sun, May-28-2017, 02:53:46 PM   #24
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison (WPC/OEM) and 212K Miles Rod Bearings

Nice thread! Thanks for taking the time to add the photos and videos. Now I have an idea of what I'm in for when I do my rod bearings in the fall.
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Old Mon, May-29-2017, 12:05:20 PM   #25
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison (WPC/OEM) and 212K Miles Rod Bearings

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Originally Posted by WOLFN8TR View Post
Nice thread! Thanks for taking the time to add the photos and videos. Now I have an idea of what I'm in for when I do my rod bearings in the fall.
Wish I had a camera man to take better videos/pictures. I did this all by myself on jack stands in my garage, so it is doable. Plan out a weekend to do this.

Altogether, it's not a complicated job, just time consuming since you have to remove so much to access the rod bolts.

I cranked her up last night. Initially, it just cranked and didn't want to start. The issue was I had to reinstall the airbox. After that, it started fine. I let it idle for 20 minutes. Didn't hear any abnormal noises. Will take it for a test drive today and spray the underbody off at the car wash of all the oil.

My ABS, TMPS, DSC, Brake lights are on, but I think it's due to changing out the steering guibo. Hopefully the lights goes off after a drive.
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Old Mon, May-29-2017, 07:06:03 PM   #26
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison (WPC/OEM) and 212K Miles Rod Bearings

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Originally Posted by aznniche View Post
Wish I had a camera man to take better videos/pictures. I did this all by myself on jack stands in my garage, so it is doable. Plan out a weekend to do this.



Altogether, it's not a complicated job, just time consuming since you have to remove so much to access the rod bolts.



I cranked her up last night. Initially, it just cranked and didn't want to start. The issue was I had to reinstall the airbox. After that, it started fine. I let it idle for 20 minutes. Didn't hear any abnormal noises. Will take it for a test drive today and spray the underbody off at the car wash of all the oil.



My ABS, TMPS, DSC, Brake lights are on, but I think it's due to changing out the steering guibo. Hopefully the lights goes off after a drive.


Changing the steering guibo should not give you any of those lights. Chances are you missed a plug whilst reinstalling all the components.


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Old Mon, May-29-2017, 08:08:01 PM   #27
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison

All warning lights turned off on my first drive. Everything is good now. Gotta remember to try and keep this under 5k rpm.
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Old Tue, May-30-2017, 11:29:28 AM   #28
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison

Are the bolts lubed or oiled before torquing?

I'd imagine the able torque would be much easier with and angle gauge attached to a breaker bars?
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Old Tue, May-30-2017, 12:13:09 PM   #29
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison

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Are the bolts lubed or oiled before torquing?

I'd imagine the able torque would be much easier with and angle gauge attached to a breaker bars?
I had the same question and the answer I got was it didn't matter if the bolts were lubed or dry.

A long breaker bar would make it easier if you have room to make the 105degrees. I tried that setup on my first go and rounded most of the bolts
I had. There is no space unless you remove the subframe.

With a Snap-On Techangle, it made it easier since it lights up/beeps so I can just concentrate on torqueing the bolt. The 3/8" is only 17 inches so it was a little tough, but doable, to reach that angle. Just need to be in the right position under the car.
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Old Tue, May-30-2017, 01:18:22 PM   #30
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Default Re: Rod Bearing Comparison

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Originally Posted by aznniche View Post
I had the same question and the answer I got was it didn't matter if the bolts were lubed or dry.

A long breaker bar would make it easier if you have room to make the 105degrees. I tried that setup on my first go and rounded most of the bolts
I had. There is no space unless you remove the subframe.

With a Snap-On Techangle, it made it easier since it lights up/beeps so I can just concentrate on torqueing the bolt. The 3/8" is only 17 inches so it was a little tough, but doable, to reach that angle. Just need to be in the right position under the car.
I have a lift luckily and will drop the subframe totally. I was thinking of a angle gauge and a breaker bar with a small extension or something. Even another person there to keep a hand on the socket . Or even a T bar that comes in most socket sets.

I would like a techangle but a bit pricey for me lol
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Discussing Rod Bearing Comparison in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)