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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Thu, Dec-14-2017, 06:07:10 PM   #21
mikerob
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Many engine builders donít like LTW flywheels and crank dampers although there are varying opinions. What Iíve been told is you can do the damper or flywheel but not both.


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I should have been more clear...

"...you will loose the crankshaft pulse dampening provided by the original DMF"

I am not referring the harmonic balance on the front of the engine.
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- 2006 BMW M3 Cabriolet, Euro Headers and Cats, SuperSprint Sport Exhaust, 3.91 Gears, ZCP Front & Rear Brakes, TTFS Tune, Mason Eng Clutch Pedal

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- 1991 BMW 325i (E30) Cabriolet, Stock European Exhaust (w/o Cat), Bilstein Shocks and Struts, Hella Ecode Headlights
- 2000 BMW 323i (E46) Sport Touring, 330i Front Calipers & Rotors, Bilstein Shocks and Struts, SAP Delete, Sirius Receiver, HID/Projector Headlights.
- 1994 BMW 325is (E36) S50 Engine, Schrick Cams, Custom Chip, 3.46:1 LSD Final Drive, 330i Front Calipers & Rotors, (Lots of Modifications)
- 1987 BMW 325is (E30) European ECU and Camshaft, M3 Suspension, Headers with Custom Exhaust.
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Old Thu, Dec-14-2017, 07:20:05 PM   #22
rpearl555
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

On the topic of clutch recommendations... is the general consensus on break in: 500 miles city driving granny style?
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Old Fri, Dec-15-2017, 01:10:18 AM   #23
Jonnie86
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

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Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
There is no reliability concern with any of the stock components. If reliability is your primary concern, moving off them is a step in the wrong direction.

If you want lighter/better feel, there are better options out there. So far every one I've experienced has come with the side effect of noise, which has made them a non starter for me.
I mean, I guess it's reliable, but clearly it wasn't for me considering it failed.
100k miles isn't a totally unreasonable number, but I've most definitely seen better. The failure is probably in the TOB, perhaps the pressure plate, I wont know until I remove the transmission.

I also come from the vw/audi world, and in that realm, DM flywheel failures are very common, especially the moment you add any extra power. An aluminum flywheel is definitely off the table for me, not even in consideration. I don't need it to be that light, and I don't want the extra noise that comes with it.

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Originally Posted by mikerob View Post
When installing a single mass flywheel, as long as you install the proper clutch disc that has a center sprung hub, you should not experience abnormal transmission rattle. On both my E36 (s50 engine) and E30 (stock engine), I converted to steel single mass flywheels with a center sprung disc, without any abnormal transmission noise.

I have no experience converting an E46 M3 (mine is still a stock), but would be very surprised if it doesn't behave the same as the E30 and E36 conversions i have done over the years.

Now, I have driven friend's cars (E36) that converted to a lightweight aluminum single mass flywheel and used the stock (non-sprung) disc. Yes, these cars rattle - a lot!
I see that a lot of people who complain about noise are running aluminum flywheels. Steel produces less noise apparently, probably because of weight or stiffness of the material. An unsprung clutch with a SMFW will effectively make it an on/off switch, which I am not interested in for a street car lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpearl555 View Post
On the topic of clutch recommendations... is the general consensus on break in: 500 miles city driving granny style?
Definitely want a nice easy break in for about 500 miles to avoid glazing the clutch.




Anyway, for those interested, this Clutch Masters unit is looking like the front runner at the moment. I can't find their specification for the steel flywheel weight, hopefully its > 15lbs. Kevlar disk is gonna be a bit grabbier than organic but I'm okay with that. Still not decided however, but I have time.

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Driveline...2-HDKV-SK.html
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Old Fri, Dec-15-2017, 01:16:08 AM   #24
bigjae1976
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

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Originally Posted by Jonnie86 View Post
I mean, I guess it's reliable, but clearly it wasn't for me considering it failed.

100k miles isn't a totally unreasonable number, but I've most definitely seen better. The failure is probably in the TOB, perhaps the pressure plate, I wont know until I remove the transmission.

The weak point is the TOB.



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Old Fri, Dec-15-2017, 02:07:55 AM   #25
mikerob
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnie86 View Post

Anyway, for those interested, this Clutch Masters unit is looking like the front runner at the moment. I can't find their specification for the steel flywheel weight, hopefully its > 15lbs. Kevlar disk is gonna be a bit grabbier than organic but I'm okay with that. Still not decided however, but I have time.

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Driveline...2-HDKV-SK.html
Looks like Clutch Masters does makes an organic disc for their FX100 kit. You could probably have them substitute the organic disc for the kevlar disc if interested. Let us know if you go this route...I would be interested to know if it noisy or quiet
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Current Ride
- 2006 BMW M3 Cabriolet, Euro Headers and Cats, SuperSprint Sport Exhaust, 3.91 Gears, ZCP Front & Rear Brakes, TTFS Tune, Mason Eng Clutch Pedal

Past Ride
- 1991 BMW 325i (E30) Cabriolet, Stock European Exhaust (w/o Cat), Bilstein Shocks and Struts, Hella Ecode Headlights
- 2000 BMW 323i (E46) Sport Touring, 330i Front Calipers & Rotors, Bilstein Shocks and Struts, SAP Delete, Sirius Receiver, HID/Projector Headlights.
- 1994 BMW 325is (E36) S50 Engine, Schrick Cams, Custom Chip, 3.46:1 LSD Final Drive, 330i Front Calipers & Rotors, (Lots of Modifications)
- 1987 BMW 325is (E30) European ECU and Camshaft, M3 Suspension, Headers with Custom Exhaust.
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Old Fri, Dec-15-2017, 02:21:43 AM   #26
simon_c
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

Always buy an OE throw out bearing instead of using whatever is supplied with your clutch kit.
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Old Fri, Dec-15-2017, 05:23:39 AM   #27
mrgizmo04
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
The weak point is the TOB.



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Yep, +1 here
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All DIY: 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, WPC rod bearings, Beyer driveshaft, full SS (SS stepped V1, catted S1, resonated S2, SS sport), Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, VANOS bullet proofing with anti-rattle, valve adjustment, cooling refresh, Ohlins R&T/Swift 448f 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, AFD E85 Proflex kit.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal
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Old Fri, Dec-15-2017, 05:28:37 AM   #28
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

OP, on clutch not disengaging, I've had a case in past when the spring clip that holds the clutch fork on the ball pin fell off, and the fork was loose and not pressing against the TOB properly.

Should be obvious when you take the tranny off.
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'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
'05 M3 6MT coupe

All DIY: 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, WPC rod bearings, Beyer driveshaft, full SS (SS stepped V1, catted S1, resonated S2, SS sport), Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, VANOS bullet proofing with anti-rattle, valve adjustment, cooling refresh, Ohlins R&T/Swift 448f 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, AFD E85 Proflex kit.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal
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Old Fri, Dec-15-2017, 07:53:47 PM   #29
aaronpoweruser
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

So the consense is to buy a luk clutch, oem Throw out bearing. And while there replace the clutch slave cylinder, clutch fork, rear main seal, input shaft seal, and selector rod seal

Are the seals needed or should they only be done if leaking

FYI the luk clutch is cheapest on amazon look for "LuK 03-054"
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Old Fri, Dec-15-2017, 08:14:23 PM   #30
hemi8
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Default Re: Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations

We have a respected shop in our area, RRT Racing, I was told by them to not replace the rear main seal if it not leaking. The factory did some black magic under there and if you disturb it you can count on doing it again because its hard as hell to get a new one to not leak. At 190k mine was not leaking when the clutch was replaced, didn't touch it.

Mike
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2004 SMG M3, carbon black metallic w/cinnamon interior, OEM Euro Headers, Frank Smith engine & CSL SMG tuned, 300rwhp. Original SMG pump died @ 198k. Original clutch died @ 190k. Original rear diff. died @ 200k, driveshaft and axles shot @202k
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Discussing Clutch and Flywheel Recommendations in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)