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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 04:43:12 PM   #21
nervous24
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

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Originally Posted by Steve M3 View Post
I've never purchased from them but they've 'clearly' done a good job of recruiting you as a non-paid salesperson. Another benefit of their business model
I would say the thousands Iíve gotten in free parts IS payment.

Perhaps I just prefer paying for a part one time in life and you enjoy buying multiple? Maybe I value money more than you do so I donít needlessly waste it if I donít have to? Whatever the case I win when whilst you lose.

Honestly, and this is my opinion, to avoid using their warranty is just kind of silly. I donít care if I sound like a fanboy or not. Facts are the facts and free parts are free parts. Iíll keep collecting mine.
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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 05:20:23 PM   #22
Steve M3
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

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Originally Posted by nervous24 View Post
I would say the thousands Iíve gotten in free parts IS payment.

Perhaps I just prefer paying for a part one time in life and you enjoy buying multiple? Maybe I value money more than you do so I donít needlessly waste it if I donít have to? Whatever the case I win when whilst you lose.

Honestly, and this is my opinion, to avoid using their warranty is just kind of silly. I donít care if I sound like a fanboy or not. Facts are the facts and free parts are free parts. Iíll keep collecting mine.

Lol, ok.

Just for a fun discussion. I'm assuming you pay shipping back to them, correct? If you keep all of your boxes in good condition and stored, you could definitely save a few bucks there. If you don't keep all of the original packaging, then you risk finding boxes that are "close enough" and thus wasting additional money on return postage.

What exactly are you sending back to them? I can see brake parts as being a big win with this program, but also the most costly when it comes to return postage. Oil seems like it would be the quickest item to go through, but it's relatively cheap and heavy, so again, shipping would be a pain. Also, if your car burns a quart between changes or you spill some, then you wouldn't be refunded in full for not returning exactly what was purchased or do they take this into account?

What else are you going to really return? Most parts on these cars tend to last 100k miles. Are you really going to store the boxes and packaging materials for years while putting an additional 100k miles on the car? Are you even going to own the car for an additional 100k miles?

The more I think about this the more it reminds me of the extended warranty companies and how people act like they're sticking it to them somehow because they had an expensive repair done once.

As far as valuing money, I am one of the most frugal people you will meet, so I'm not sure that argument really holds water. You may feel like you're really putting it to them, but I guarantee you that you're not their typical customer. As outlined previously, this is a good program for those that track their cars when it comes to brake parts, at least as long as they don't throw a clause in there about tracked parts
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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 05:34:08 PM   #23
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

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Originally Posted by Steve M3 View Post
Lol, ok.



Just for a fun discussion. I'm assuming you pay shipping back to them, correct? If you keep all of your boxes in good condition and stored, you could definitely save a few bucks there. If you don't keep all of the original packaging, then you risk finding boxes that are "close enough" and thus wasting additional money on return postage.



What exactly are you sending back to them? I can see brake parts as being a big win with this program, but also the most costly when it comes to return postage. Oil seems like it would be the quickest item to go through, but it's relatively cheap and heavy, so again, shipping would be a pain. Also, if your car burns a quart between changes or you spill some, then you wouldn't be refunded in full for not returning exactly what was purchased or do they take this into account?



What else are you going to really return? Most parts on these cars tend to last 100k miles. Are you really going to store the boxes and packaging materials for years while putting an additional 100k miles on the car? Are you even going to own the car for an additional 100k miles?



The more I think about this the more it reminds me of the extended warranty companies and how people act like they're sticking it to them somehow because they had an expensive repair done once.



As far as valuing money, I am one of the most frugal people you will meet, so I'm not sure that argument really holds water. You may feel like you're really putting it to them, but I guarantee you that you're not their typical customer. As outlined previously, this is a good program for those that track their cars when it comes to brake parts, at least as long as they don't throw a clause in there about tracked parts


You donít need to save the original box, on their return sheet you enter the replacement order number and just put your old part in the replacement box. This way you donít have to wait for shipping both ways.

They specifically mention that you can track the parts and then return them. Thereís also no reason to wait the full 100k miles to replace them ie fresh control arms every season
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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 05:37:28 PM   #24
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

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Originally Posted by Steve M3 View Post
Lol, ok.



Just for a fun discussion. I'm assuming you pay shipping back to them, correct? If you keep all of your boxes in good condition and stored, you could definitely save a few bucks there. If you don't keep all of the original packaging, then you risk finding boxes that are "close enough" and thus wasting additional money on return postage.



What exactly are you sending back to them? I can see brake parts as being a big win with this program, but also the most costly when it comes to return postage. Oil seems like it would be the quickest item to go through, but it's relatively cheap and heavy, so again, shipping would be a pain. Also, if your car burns a quart between changes or you spill some, then you wouldn't be refunded in full for not returning exactly what was purchased or do they take this into account?



What else are you going to really return? Most parts on these cars tend to last 100k miles. Are you really going to store the boxes and packaging materials for years while putting an additional 100k miles on the car? Are you even going to own the car for an additional 100k miles?



The more I think about this the more it reminds me of the extended warranty companies and how people act like they're sticking it to them somehow because they had an expensive repair done once.



As far as valuing money, I am one of the most frugal people you will meet, so I'm not sure that argument really holds water. You may feel like you're really putting it to them, but I guarantee you that you're not their typical customer. As outlined previously, this is a good program for those that track their cars when it comes to brake parts, at least as long as they don't throw a clause in there about tracked parts
I'm sorry man, I don't know what the hell your argument is, especially since you've never bought from them and never used the program.

Easy steps for you:
1. You buy a part
2. Part gets used up
3. You buy and pay for replacement
4. It arrives, you install/use/etc
5. Place old/used up item in packaging you just received.
6. Mail back, receive refund for original cost of item you just returned (whether it is more or less than the cost of the item now).

Only a crazy person argues against taking advantage.

My $75 brake fluid costs $10 or less and is a breeze to return.
My $900 rotors were $40 or $50 last time and a piece of cake to return.
My nearly $200 street brake pads were $18 and also a breeze.

And now they stock Hawk DTC pads; unfortunately I like using PFC track pads, oh well.

I will also keep the thousands of free money I've saved and you can keep arguing with everyone else in this thread.

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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 05:47:14 PM   #25
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

^^^^^^

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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 05:51:42 PM   #26
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

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how does that business model work...i predict they will be closing shop very soon lol
I think most people are simply too lazy to take advantage of the perks.

You'd think they at least charge something like 10-20% more for products but no. I often find things at a lower price on their website!

I will say its a bit of a process to fill out the forms and pack everything to their instructions but not at all a problem when you remind yourself that its 100% free

Side note look what you started!
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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 05:53:19 PM   #27
Steve M3
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

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Originally Posted by Blaikenstein View Post
You don’t need to save the original box, on their return sheet you enter the replacement order number and just put your old part in the replacement box. This way you don’t have to wait for shipping both ways.

They specifically mention that you can track the parts and then return them. There’s also no reason to wait the full 100k miles to replace them ie fresh control arms every season
That's good then if you can use the same box and return after. I haven't read their T's & C's on how the program fully works, I just know that if things seem too good to be true, then they probably are.

Quote:
Originally Posted by C///M View Post
I'm sorry man, I don't know what the hell your argument is, especially since you've never bought from them and never used the program.

Easy steps for you:
1. You buy a part
2. Part gets used up
3. You buy and pay for replacement
4. It arrives, you install/use/etc
5. Place old/used up item in packaging you just received.
6. Mail back, receive refund for original cost of item you just returned (whether it is more or less than the cost of the item now).

Only a crazy person argues against taking advantage.

My $75 brake fluid costs $10 or less and is a breeze to return.
My $900 rotors were $40 or $50 last time and a piece of cake to return.
My nearly $200 street brake pads were $18 and also a breeze.

And now they stock Hawk DTC pads; unfortunately I like using PFC track pads, oh well.

I will also keep the thousands of free money I've saved and you can keep arguing with everyone else in this thread.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I'm not arguing against it, I'm saying that it either is going to go down one of two ways.

1. Most people sell their car, forget about it or don't utilize the program on small items since they don't want to deal with shipping stuff back. In this case, the company makes extra margin on the front end and aren't saddled with losses down the line. This would be the best for the people that do take advantage of the program, even if they are few and far between.

2. Everyone takes advantage, when the returns start hitting really hard the company becomes insolvent, everyone loses as the program is now void and everyone paid a little too much in the beginning because they were "really going to stick it to this company" and win big.

My guess is that it'll be number one. Most people are going to sell their cars or not deal with it and the company will be the one to win, just like the extended warranty companies. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with this. Most people in this country love to feel protected and "have a warranty" on what they buy, even if it means paying more in the beginning.

So tell me, if everyone is winning, how are they going to continue this program? If you really want it to last, you should keep it a secret, not tell everyone about it

Last edited by Steve M3; Tue, May-14-2019 at 05:57:02 PM.
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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 06:05:52 PM   #28
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

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Originally Posted by Steve M3 View Post
That's good then if you can use the same box and return after. I haven't read their T's & C's on how the program fully works, I just know that if things seem too good to be true, then they probably are.



I'm not arguing against it, I'm saying that it either is going to go down one of two ways.

1. Most people sell their car, forget about it or don't utilize the program on small items since they don't want to deal with shipping stuff back. In this case, the company makes extra margin on the front end and aren't saddled with losses down the line. This would be the best for the people that do take advantage of the program, even if they are few and far between.

2. Everyone takes advantage, when the returns start hitting really hard the company becomes insolvent, everyone loses as the program is now void and everyone paid a little too much in the beginning because they were "really going to stick it to this company" and win big.

My guess is that it'll be number one. Most people are going to sell their cars or not deal with it and the company will be the one to win, just like the extended warranty companies. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with this. Most people in this country love to feel protected and "have a warranty" on what they buy, even if it means paying more in the beginning.

So tell me, if everyone is winning, how are they going to continue this program? If you really want it to last, you should keep it a secret, not tell everyone about it
I am a college kid who owns an m3 and wants to put ONLY quality parts in. Somethings gotta give right? FCP literally allows me to drive my car as hard as, well, an m3 driven by a college kid is driven while stile staying reliable because I do preventative maintenance out the wazoo.

I saw you mention that oil would be a bit of a hassle. Instead of buying oil and a filter for $60 every time I pay $30 for return shipping from chicago and select free no rush shipping (usually arrives in under 5 days) on their website when buying the new oil.

The specifically say you can use their products on track. They say it can be installed by either a DIYer or a pro mechanic. I sent them an email asking about shortened oil intervals (BMW says go 15k miles on oil I want to change it earlier) and they send you can send the oil back at any mileage.)

If you send back 5.5quarts of oil they will not flip out and not grant you a refund...

I buy their track pads and street pads and they send full refunds

Just read their FAQ https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve M3 View Post
If you really want it to last, you should keep it a secret not tell everyone about it
Too bad im telling everyone


Now what were we talking about again? Yeah rotors!
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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 06:40:01 PM   #29
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

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So tell me, if everyone is winning, how are they going to continue this program?
Yes, obviously not everyone is winning. But a lot of people here (which are a pretty small part of their customer base) are. And I think the type of enthusiasts we have in this forum who are likely to keep their cars a long time and go through consumables quickly will often win too. That's not an outlandish statement.
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Old Tue, May-14-2019, 07:36:29 PM   #30
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Default Re: OEM Rotors or CSL?

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Trying to decide which rotors I should choose and thought you guys know best. Keep in mind price is no issue because of FCP warranty. Also keep in mind that these are my ONLY 2 choices. My car is a daily driver that sees between 5-10 track days a year.

OEM Rotor (Blank)
Pros:
-Not prone to cracking
-Lower Heat Cycling Spikes because of increased Mass

Cons:
-No BBK upgrade
-No Where for pad buildup to go?

CSL Rotor
Pros:
-996 BBK upgrade available
-Holes for Pad buildup to escape?
-Looks freakin awesome
-More "edges" leading to better braking?

Cons:
-more prone to cracking

As of now Im more leaning to the CSL rotor because im thinking of a future 996 BBK. Somebody help me make the right choice. Thank you!
well the front CSL rotors will need the larger carriers to clear. and the technically "correct" way is to have the CSL rear calipers with the larger piston(although many don't do this). it's a brake bias thing.
i'd go CSL rotor route. especially if youre consdering a caliper kit that uses the CSL rotors down the line.
the aluminum hats and (floating) design of rotors along with perforated rotors really sheds some weight and assists the temps.
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Discussing OEM Rotors or CSL? in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)