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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 09:33:33 PM   #21
Aeko
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

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Originally Posted by fastsoup View Post
With all this being said, how can we be sure it's in fact the motor and not the pump itself?
Read my previous reply above
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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 09:55:41 PM   #22
SMG cog light
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

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Originally Posted by fastsoup View Post
Wow! That is a absolutely terrific! Now you got me thinking...he's backed up and won't be able to work on the car for a week or so.

This foxwell scanner will allow me to do all that? Bleed, pressure test etc? I have a tool box with most tools...is there anything specific I would need for the job? If it isn't the accumulator, can I also replace the entire pump via that tool?

I'm a confident tackler, but this may get a little to "heavy" and I may want to leave it to the shop to handle. Either way, if you have time, that DIY would sure be handy...not just to me, but everyone else who encounters this problem.

Much appreciated,

F
Yes. The foxwell scanner will let you bleed the pump. It will allow you to do all the smg transmission adaptations, bleed slave cylinder, acutator, reteach clutch, calibrate etc..

The hardest part of the whole repair would be removing the intake manifold plenum. Because I re-used the OEM throttle body hose clamps. I removed the intake plenum a few times before so I got really good at it. There is a DIY on pelican parts and Also somewhere in this forum on the DIY to remove the intake manifold. Once that is removed the rest is super easy. I will post a detailed DIY to replace/repair/recondition the smg pump here in a few days.

Last edited by SMG cog light; Fri, Apr-26-2019 at 11:07:21 PM.
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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 09:57:54 PM   #23
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

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Originally Posted by SMG cog light View Post
Yes. The foxwell scanner will let you bleed the pump. It will allow you to do all the smg transmission adaptations, bleed slave cylinder, acutator, reteach clutch, calbirate etc..

The hardest part of the whole repair would be removing the intake manifold plenum. Once that is removed the rest is super easy. I will post a simple DIY here.
Well if that's the hardest part, I've done it to replace the starter motor...now you got me getting confident.
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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 10:04:37 PM   #24
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

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Originally Posted by Aeko View Post
Read my previous reply above
I read it...that's what worries me...you had some noise...some life...I got nothing...not a squeak from the pump. The only thing I have to hold onto is the fact that the 40amp fuse isn't blown.

The local seller wants $750 for the kit...I don't mind paying to re & re but if it goes back in and still nothing...it's gonna hurt.
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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 10:13:07 PM   #25
SMG cog light
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

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Originally Posted by fastsoup View Post
With all this being said, how can we be sure it's in fact the motor and not the pump itself?
The actual pump itself is mechanical, it's 2 toothed gears inside an aluminum housing with a special seal. The electric motor is what spins the fluid and the pump is what creates the pressure.

If your pump is not priming or turning on then there will be 0 pressure being created by the pump.

If your 40a fuse is blown, there will be no power supply to the motor. (no motor on, no pressure)

If your salmon relay is sticking or defective, it will create erratic pressures or no pressure at all. Since the relay is what starts the motor. This is why people do the easy relay replace and sometimes it fixes the issue.

If your car only drops out of gear in hot temperatures or in stop and go traffic or with the a/c on but never drops gears in the winter; that means you motor is working but this is not good. The resistor trick isn't good also. A proper repair, recondition and relocation of the pump is the way to go.

The motor will work over time and come on constantly to create enough pressure for gear shifts. During hot temps the smg pump have a saftey threshold where the car will go into limp or safety mode to protect the transmission. This safety mode is checked by the hydraulic fluid temperature sensor. And usually will kick you into neutral around 180-200+ degrees Fahrenheit. It does not do this in the cooler temperatures or driving in highway because the smg pump will not reach this temperature in the winter or with more air flow cooling the pump. This is why you get the kick out of gear symptom in idle traffic or with the a/c on because the engine bay is hotter.

I don't recommend the resistor mod for this reason. Yes, it will allow you to drive the car without the gear drops. But what you don't know is that your motor is on all the time and your commutator is being prematurely worn out.

Also keep in mind high temperatures thins out the viscosity of the hydraulic fluid. Thin fluid wont create pressure faster and pressure will drop faster. This is why in the winter the viscosity of the pentosin chf11s is thicker so you smg pump functions better. And this is the same reason why burkhart makes a thicker hydraulic fluid upgrade.

See my post here to understand why it isn't good.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=607072

Last edited by SMG cog light; Fri, Apr-26-2019 at 10:19:03 PM.
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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 10:57:31 PM   #26
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

Can you tell if the DC motor running from the noise it makes? If motor is running but still no pressure then it's the pump.

Did you say when open/close the driver door there was no hum noise from the motor running? check the relay 12V output when door open/close because what if the controller didn't see the door open/close?
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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 11:08:29 PM   #27
SMG cog light
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

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Originally Posted by fastsoup View Post
Well if that's the hardest part, I've done it to replace the starter motor...now you got me getting confident.
Here this will help.

http://www.nugadgets.com/customcontent/SmgDiyMain.html
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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 11:25:26 PM   #28
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

"Upon unlock and door open, pump never primed"

No noise no sound of e-motor running. Bad motor? maybe or not.

There are many inputs the computer needs to know before it commands the pump motor to run, so not running doesn't mean motor is bad.

To conform bad or running motor: remove the salmon relay and directly jump pin6 (solid red wire) to 12V. This bypasses the DME and the SMG2 controllers to turn on the motor.
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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 11:50:51 PM   #29
fastsoup
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

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Originally Posted by sapote View Post
Can you tell if the DC motor running from the noise it makes? If motor is running but still no pressure then it's the pump.

Did you say when open/close the driver door there was no hum noise from the motor running? check the relay 12V output when door open/close because what if the controller didn't see the door open/close?

How would I check that? Mulitmeter?
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Old Fri, Apr-26-2019, 11:51:49 PM   #30
fastsoup
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Default Re: I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sapote View Post
"Upon unlock and door open, pump never primed"

No noise no sound of e-motor running. Bad motor? maybe or not.

There are many inputs the computer needs to know before it commands the pump motor to run, so not running doesn't mean motor is bad.

To conform bad or running motor: remove the salmon relay and directly jump pin6 (solid red wire) to 12V. This bypasses the DME and the SMG2 controllers to turn on the motor.

PIN 6?? Solid red wire in the box? Take that to a direct 12v, like the positive battery?
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Discussing I think it's the SMG pump...hopefully not. in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)