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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Tue, Apr-23-2019, 01:28:37 PM   #21
malacai17
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Default Re: Help removing head

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Originally Posted by ThunderMoose View Post
The headers nut removal is probably gonna be the hardest part. You’ll need a combination of extensions and swivels. I usually work from top and bottom of car.
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When I swapped my headers, this Milwaukee M12 1/4" (PN: 2456-20) ratchet was absolutely invaluable for getting those nuts off:


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Old Tue, Apr-23-2019, 05:50:04 PM   #22
mrgizmo04
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Default Re: Help removing head

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Originally Posted by malacai17 View Post
When I swapped my headers, this Milwaukee M12 1/4" (PN: 2456-20) ratchet was absolutely invaluable for getting those nuts off:

Amazon.com: Milwaukee 2456-20 M12 1/4 Ratchet tool Only: Home Improvement
I used it for 2 nuts, because it started pulling out all the studs, then I went back to box end and regular hand ratchet.

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Old Tue, Apr-23-2019, 06:57:38 PM   #23
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Default Re: Help removing head

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Originally Posted by zingbmw View Post
thanks for the heads up sapote. any pics?
two bolts #9 on this pic:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2992

Important: the tension side guide top bolt is bolted to the head, near the thermostat housing. It and the above 2 bolts to timing cover MUST be removed before releasing head big bolts!!!!

Your 3rd pic shows the cam sleeves still on the camshafts without any bolts; why not remove the sleeves off to avoid accidentally drop on floor and they must be off for you to remove the front bearing plate 5 Torx bolts before you can access to the head bolts.

Last edited by sapote; Wed, Apr-24-2019 at 12:43:33 AM.
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Old Wed, Apr-24-2019, 10:41:38 AM   #24
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Default Re: Help removing head

Thanks sapote!

first 2 pics are the ratchet set ups that I used to remove the header nuts (occasionally with the studs in tow despite barely any rust). I removed all but the 6th header's bottom nut from the top. I figure I have to remove the nuts holding the headers to the next section of the exhaust to move them out of the way of the head, so ill get the last one from the bottom. The first and 6th were definitely the toughest to get to. Im sure there are better ways that take less time, but i worked with what I had. I would say those are the bare minimum needed.

The 3rd pic is the 3 nuts that everyone mentioned MUST BE REMOVED before removing the head bolts.

The bottom bearing race that covers the first 2 head bolts must be pulled toward you after the 5 bolts are removed.

After I pull the headers away from the head and remove the head bolts, the head should just lift off, correct?
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Old Wed, Apr-24-2019, 10:45:52 AM   #25
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Default Re: Help removing head

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Originally Posted by zingbmw View Post
Thanks sapote!



first 2 pics are the ratchet set ups that I used to remove the header nuts (occasionally with the studs in tow despite barely any rust). I removed all but the 6th header's bottom nut from the top. I figure I have to remove the nuts holding the headers to the next section of the exhaust to move them out of the way of the head, so ill get the last one from the bottom. The first and 6th were definitely the toughest to get to. Im sure there are better ways that take less time, but i worked with what I had. I would say those are the bare minimum needed.



The 3rd pic is the 3 nuts that everyone mentioned MUST BE REMOVED before removing the head bolts.



The bottom bearing race that covers the first 2 head bolts must be pulled toward you after the 5 bolts are removed.



After I pull the headers away from the head and remove the head bolts, the head should just lift off, correct?


Did you get the bolt for the chain guide that is behind the water pump?


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Old Wed, Apr-24-2019, 03:06:01 PM   #26
sapote
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Default Re: Help removing head

I think he got all the peripheral bolts off and ready for the big head bolts. Install 2 cam bearing caps at each end for lifting the head off with robes. Get some 0.5” thick wood strips to insert between block and head in case to protect the head from the two block dowels.

P.S. remove all head bolts but leave 2 bolts at both ends of the head with a few threads in the block. They serve as a guide during the initial head lift off to avoid scratching the head surface by the sharpe dowels. Pull head up enough then insert the wood strips to cushion the head higher than the dowels, then remove the last bolts and get the head out.

Last edited by sapote; Wed, Apr-24-2019 at 05:27:40 PM.
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Old Fri, May-03-2019, 03:29:19 PM   #27
zingbmw
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Default Re: Help removing head

removed/loosened the bolts holding the headers to the next section of the exhaust. The bottom bolt on the 6th header is still a ***** to get to from under the car. Pulled the headers away and took off the 3 10mm bolts holding fuel line and other stuff on the driver side of the engine. removed the quick release coolant hose in the back and pulled off the head.

The 3rd pic is piston 1 and the 4th pic is the valves from cylinder 1. There are small marks on all of the exhaust valves that you can see in pic 2 and there is the large mark on the first piston that you can see in pic 3. Those are the only marks I saw.

Whats the diagnosis??
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Old Fri, May-03-2019, 04:08:43 PM   #28
Za Rulem
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Default Re: Help removing head

I was in a similar position - intake cam bolts sheared. I just checked the compression in each cylinder to see if there's any valve damage. Compression was fine. Engine is running normal.

While vanos is off, I'd replace all 24 small bolts, plastic chain guide with Beisan version, exhaust shaft with thicker nobs for high-pressure oil pump if oil pump disk is not damaged, and all seals/o-rings.
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Old Fri, May-03-2019, 05:52:19 PM   #29
zingbmw
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Default Re: Help removing head

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Originally Posted by Za Rulem View Post
I was in a similar position - intake cam bolts sheared. I just checked the compression in each cylinder to see if there's any valve damage. Compression was fine. Engine is running normal.

While vanos is off, I'd replace all 24 small bolts, plastic chain guide with Beisan version, exhaust shaft with thicker nobs for high-pressure oil pump if oil pump disk is not damaged, and all seals/o-rings.
Ive already done the full beisan vanos rebuild. will add a new chain guide and replace the vanos solenoid, if the engine ends up being repairable.

Unfortunately I ended up with a lot of bent valves, so the head will need to be redone. The valves are pictured in previous posts

To figure out where I need to go from here, I need to know if the damage to the pistons is enough to have to drop the engine or if its possible replace/repair just the damaged one with the block still in the car or if the pistons are fine and I can have the block sent off to be rebuilt.
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Old Fri, May-03-2019, 07:55:38 PM   #30
sapote
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Default Re: Help removing head

All the EX valves were not hitting the pistons, but they hit their mates IN valves instead!!!
This makes sense because only the IN cam bolts were sheared and the EX cam was in perfect timing.

Interesting that #1 two IN valves supposed to move in sync and hit the piston with same intensity and damage but why pic shows only the inner valve with damage and the outer valve sit lower.

The piston damage is not bad as I thought, so I think the bottom end is ok to be used as is.
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Discussing Help removing head in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)