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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Mon, Apr-15-2019, 03:42:11 AM   #11
zingbmw
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Default Re: Help removing head

ive loosened all of the bottom left nuts expect for on TB1 (fairly easy to get to with a 1/4 drive flex head and extension when you open the TBs half way). Anyone have an exact tool set up and method of getting to the top 6 nuts and the bottom left nut on TB1?

I pulled the fuel rail, but dont see how to pull it out of the way, as I cant see how to loosen the wire loom
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Old Mon, Apr-15-2019, 04:44:46 AM   #12
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Default Re: Help removing head

Fuel rail with injectors and connector rail all come out together if possible. If connector rail must be removed in order to unbolt fuel rail, then use a small pointed screw driver to unclip the square clips, then pull the connector rail off.


Drain the block coolant and oil, and the top chain guide bolt, and any smaller bolts on head to chain cover, before loosening the head bolts.
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Old Mon, Apr-15-2019, 09:50:13 AM   #13
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Default Re: Help removing head

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Thereís a bolt on the drivers side of the head that bolts into the timing chain rail...you forgot that bugger! lol


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Thatís what I meant about removing water pump that hides a bolt. Shouldíve been clearer.


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My track journal: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=509148
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Old Tue, Apr-16-2019, 03:44:21 PM   #14
zingbmw
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Default Re: Help removing head

tb nut removal... bottom 5 nuts loosened with 11mm on 1/4 drive with extension. 1st tb bottom and all top nuts loosened with 12pt 11mm wrench. To get to the top nut on the 6th tb with the wrench, you have to remove the black plastic cable organizer in the first photo (3 10mm nuts on the bottom of it, 2 cable ties, and a rubber push fit) and the intake cam shaft sensor. Youll have to pull the bottom of the throttle actuator rod off as well before the tbs come off as 1 unit.

2nd pic is bent valves
3rd pic is current progress

will drain oil and coolant, then get to the water pump. Also have to remove the header nuts. After that, i think im on to removing the cams, then the head. Ive been reading that removing the cams without the tool is kind of dicey. Anyone have experience with that?

might try this for removal, however for the M54 he says you dont need to pull the cams to remove the head. same for the S54?
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 20190415_234758.jpg (341.8 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg 20190415_234959.jpg (620.6 KB, 26 views)

Last edited by zingbmw; Tue, Apr-16-2019 at 05:44:23 PM.
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Old Tue, Apr-16-2019, 04:47:59 PM   #15
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Default Re: Help removing head

Quote:
Originally Posted by zingbmw View Post
tb nut removal... bottom 5 nuts loosened with 11mm on 1/4 drive with extension. 1st tb bottom and all top nuts loosened with 12pt 11mm wrench. To get to the top nut on the 6th tb with the wrench, you have to remove the black plastic cable organizer in the first photo (3 10mm nuts on the bottom of it, 2 cable ties, and a rubber push fit) and the intake cam shaft sensor. Youll have to pull the bottom black push fit rod off as well before the tbs come off as 1 unit.

2nd pic is bent valves
3rd pic is current progress

will drain oil and coolant, then get to the water pump. Also have to remove the header nuts. After that, i think im on to removing the cams, then the head. Ive been reading that removing the cams without the tool is kind of dicey. Anyone have experience with that?

BMW E46 Remove & Install Camshafts #m54rebuild 9 - YouTube might try this for removal, however for the M54 he says you dont need to pull the cams to remove the head. same for the S54?


You have to remove cams on S54 to remove head. The head bolts are under the camshafts.

As I mentioned, I have removed and installed cams several times without tools with no issue. YMMV.


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FLMS Half Cage, RaceTech 4009HR drivers seat, Schroth 6-Pt Harness, E.S.S. Fire System, AIM SOLO DL with ECU Harness, SmartyCam, Angle Aluminum with VAC dead pedal, Sparco Steering Wheel on MOMO hub, MCS Suspension, Hyperco 800F 900R springs, Hotchkis Front and Rear Sway bars, Vorshlag Camber Plates, Turner ARCA, AJ Hartman Front Splitter, BW V2 Wing, BW CF Rear Diffuser, APEX ARC-8 wheels, Brembo BBK Front, Carbon Fiber Roof, CF Headlight Blanks, Door Windows and Cards Delete, TMS rear and front subframe reinforcement, Zionsville Competition Cooler, BW Oil Cooler, Oil Diverter Valve, Motorsports Thermostat, Evolve CF Intake, Epic Stepped Headers, Turner Pulleys, BW 3.5" Race Exhaust, EPIC Alpha N Tune, Beisan Oil Disk and Vanos Seals, ZF 5MT, CAE Ultra Shifter

My track journal: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=509148
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Old Tue, Apr-16-2019, 04:51:33 PM   #16
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Default Re: Help removing head

Just loosen and tighten the nuts evenly.


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Old Tue, Apr-16-2019, 07:11:34 PM   #17
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Default Re: Help removing head

Before loosening the head bolts, making sure to remove 2 smaller bolts bolting head to chain cover and one bolt at the top chain guide. If forgot something will crack and no more fun.

When install the head back, finish the final torque on the head bolt before tightening the two chain cover bolts and the top guide bolt.

These steps are easily forgot but disaster can happen if they are ignored.

Last edited by sapote; Tue, Apr-16-2019 at 07:17:02 PM.
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Old Thu, Apr-18-2019, 04:31:07 AM   #18
zingbmw
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Default Re: Help removing head

thanks for the heads up sapote. any pics?

do i have to remove the water pump or just the thermostat housing? if so apparently i have to remove the fan and the belts and a pulley

thunder...thanks ill do the removal and install without the tool using the 2 and 4 method instead of the 3rd cylinder method

will update with pics tomorrow or the next day. have the thermostat housing, intake & exhaust cam shaft position sensors and secondary air valve out. will work on the headers and cams next time. also, the water pump if need be. however it looks like its attached to the block, so it should be good

Last edited by zingbmw; Thu, Apr-18-2019 at 06:00:31 AM.
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Old Tue, Apr-23-2019, 05:49:41 AM   #19
zingbmw
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Default Re: Help removing head

First picture is the coolant hose that goes to the metal coolant hose. You have to remove the hose and the 10mm bolt that attaches the metal hose to the head. With those removed, you'll be able to get to and remove the bolts holding on the heat shield and the bolt holding the upper exhaust chain guide in. You cant remove the bolt that attaches the metal hose to the water pump housing without removing the fan pulley, but that doesnt appear to be needed.

The second pic is all of the nuts and holders removed from the cam shafts. The video I linked is super helpful. I started at damn near TDC (piston 1 and 6 should be high and the rest low) and rotated the cams to the positions he shows in the video. The only difference is that the first cam holder is one piece held down by all 4 nuts on the intake and exhaust side. YOU MUST REMOVE ALL 4 NUTS on this first holder (closest to front bumper) before you start on the intake side! I used the 2&4 lobe method for the intake side and the 3&5 lobe for the exhaust side. I used quarter turns on all 4 nuts of the pair of lobes chosen to slowly remove the nuts without putting uneven pressure on cam shaft. If you find that there is no pressure on one lobe, loosen the other lobe pair until there is even pressure again. The first nut to loosen completely will sort of pop off and it will be one of the nuts on the bolts with less threading (closest to spark plug holes on both sides).

The third pic is what appears to be the bottom of the holders on the front. I can only assume I need to remove this as well to get to the pair of 12mm external torx underneath it. Can anyone confirm? Also is it just those hex bolts holding it on?

Also, any good links on removing the 18 nuts holding the headers on? Would love the tool setup used or whether I need to get to them from under the car. Got to a few of em before i called it with a 3/8" ratchet, 11mm socket, flex joint, and 3" extension, but it wasnt great but it worked for a couple.
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Old Tue, Apr-23-2019, 10:26:45 AM   #20
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Default Re: Help removing head

The third pic - thatís the thrust bearing and you need to remove it to get to the two head bolts underneath.

The headers nut removal is probably gonna be the hardest part. Youíll need a combination of extensions and swivels. I usually work from top and bottom of car.


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FLMS Half Cage, RaceTech 4009HR drivers seat, Schroth 6-Pt Harness, E.S.S. Fire System, AIM SOLO DL with ECU Harness, SmartyCam, Angle Aluminum with VAC dead pedal, Sparco Steering Wheel on MOMO hub, MCS Suspension, Hyperco 800F 900R springs, Hotchkis Front and Rear Sway bars, Vorshlag Camber Plates, Turner ARCA, AJ Hartman Front Splitter, BW V2 Wing, BW CF Rear Diffuser, APEX ARC-8 wheels, Brembo BBK Front, Carbon Fiber Roof, CF Headlight Blanks, Door Windows and Cards Delete, TMS rear and front subframe reinforcement, Zionsville Competition Cooler, BW Oil Cooler, Oil Diverter Valve, Motorsports Thermostat, Evolve CF Intake, Epic Stepped Headers, Turner Pulleys, BW 3.5" Race Exhaust, EPIC Alpha N Tune, Beisan Oil Disk and Vanos Seals, ZF 5MT, CAE Ultra Shifter

My track journal: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=509148
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Discussing Help removing head in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)