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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Fri, Apr-12-2019, 12:14:14 AM   #151
Braymond141
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Default Re: E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitch500 View Post
What did you use to make your e36 airbag nice and black?
I use CarPro Dlux, but I'm sure you were meaning to direct this question to Texaz3.
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Old Fri, Apr-12-2019, 04:16:39 AM   #152
T3AMFiSh
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Default Re: E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

My Tainink wheel in alcantara is awesome, and under heavy use has held up perfect
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Old Wed, Apr-17-2019, 03:12:05 AM   #153
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Default Re: E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

Captain's Log: Let the "e36 M3 Sedan Auto to e46 6-Speed Swap" DIY begin.

Credit Due:
  • Braymond141: Thanks as always for all the help.
  • M3forum.net community: You all rock.
  • M3NACE: Best YouTube documentation of this swap. Hands down. It takes a lot of work to create these videos. So keep up the good work. Much appreciated.


TRANSMISSION PREPARATION
4/16/2019:
Input shaft seal (23121228493) Removal: With the bellhousing back from Lang Racing, it's time to reinstall the bellhousing. Prior to doing so, I am replacing the input shaft seal. With the bellhousing still off, it was simple to remove the old input shaft seal by placing an appropriate sized cut off exhaust pipe on the inside of the bellhousing and tapping with a rubber mallet to remove. A few firm taps and it was off.
Input shaft seal (23121228493) Install: With the bellhousing still off, install new input shaft seal by placing an appropriate sized cut off exhaust pipe on the outside of the bellhousing and tapping with a rubber mallet. Cleaned around the area and added a small amount of transmission fluid to lube the input shaft seal (Thanks Bentley Manual for TIP!!!). A few firm taps later with the mallet and the input shaft seal was installed. I stopped tapping when input shaft seal was flush to the metal surround it.
4/17/2019:
Manual bellhousing install on transmission: Prior to sliding the manual bellhousing over the spline, I wrapped some painters tape over the spline. This was a tip from other DIYers and it worked nicely. The outside diameter of the spline is slightly larger than the inside diameter of the input shaft seal. In english, when the bellhousing is slide over the spline, the input shaft seal would get marred by the spline. The tape prevents this. I used some Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker between the two mating surfaces (which you need to clean up) and installed the 10x M8 bellhousing bolts. I could not find the specific torque spec, nor could I easily get my torque wrench on them. So as another DIYer said in a joking way, make these bolts "nice and tight". So I did. Not too tight, but tight. I also used some blue Loctite on each 10x M8 bolt. I reused the old bolts.
4/20/2019:
2) Throwout Bearing Guide Tube (23117512866): Although this part is all steel and should not wear down, it was on the list to replace... so what the heck. Simple install with the 4x M618 bolts with blue Loctite. The part slides right over the spline and bolts into place. I reused the old bolts. See "3' E46 M3 S6s420g housing+attaching parts" RealOEM.com page for diagram.
5/3/2019:
Remove and replace Transmission Shift Rod Seal (23127501582): Carefully pry out selector shaft oil seal with a narrow seal remover or small screwdriver. Coat new selector shaft seal with transmission fluid. Drive new seal in flush with housing. To get it flush, I placed a 15mm closed box wrench over the rod, then placed a long 15mm socket over rod. Then lightly hammered the end of long 15mm socket. This worked great. I few taps and it was nice and flush.

REMOVAL
4/23/2019:
Disconnect Battery. Jack up car and support. Take step back and reminisce of all the fun times in the auto. Your last drive was your last drive with the auto. Tear :-(
Exhaust Removal: Time to start removing parts on the car to make way for access to the transmission. First up is the exhaust. Pretty simple so I won't go into detail. Step 1) In the rear, remove the 2 nuts attached to exhaust hanger. These hold metal "clamps" that clip onto rim of the exhaust. Throw some wooden blocks under the muffler to support the end of the exhaust. Step 2) Unhook the rubber exhaust support in middle of exhaust. Step 3) Disconnect the O2 sensors. To gain access to the connectors/ wiring harness, remove the long-skinny plastic covering the wires ("Guide tube upper part" 1178142763). Then unclip the cylindrical connectors to both O2 sensors. Best to mark which one is which to allow for easier reassembly. Then support the middle of the exhaust with your hydraulic jack. Step 4) In the front of the exhaust, remove the 6 nuts connected to the exhaust manifold. They are on tight and some BP Blaster and my new impact wrench had no issues taking them off! Step 5) Remove the Crossover bar (51718135880) by removing the 2 nuts. Step 6) lower the exhaust and set aside.
4/24/2019:
Heat Shield + Giubo Flex Disc + Driveshaft Removal: With the exhaust out, there is a heat shield blocking access to the driveshaft. Remove all the nuts holding the heat shield. Then heat shield drops right off. I decided to completely remove the driveshaft by unbolting from the transmission and differential ends. The differential is connected to drive shaft with 4 bolts. The Guibo is connected to transmission with 3 bolts. BP Blaster, some box wrenches, and impact wrenching on the guibo bolts (these are on tight), and all the nuts were removed. You will also have to remove the driveshaft center carrier located in the middle of the driveshaft. The overall driveshaft removal is all easy peasy. Just use some common sense and removing the driveshaft will take little time.
4/25/2019:
Transmission Oil Cooler Removal (lines): Time to start disconnecting some items connected to the automatic transmission. First up on the list is the transmission oil cooler. On the drivers side of the transmission there are 2 hard lines that feed oil in/out of the transmission. These 2 lines feed all the way to the front of the car to a radiator dedicated to this transmission oil. Disconnect the lines connected to the transmission and to the bottom of the front radiator. There are 2 or 3 points along the lines that secure the lines from rattling. Disconnect these anchor points. With the lines disconnected I could see no easy way to remove the lines without bending them, or cutting them. So I cut the lines somewhere in the middle. This allowed for easy removal.
Transmission Oil Cooler Removal (radiator): With the lines gone, I guess you could leave the radiator attached to front of car. But that would be sloppy work and I am not about that at all. This radiator is connected by 2x screws on top and 2x screws on bottom. To get the top 2x screws remove the "Covering Upper 51711977986". To access the bottom screws you are going to have to remove "Support left/ right 51711977117 / 51711977118" and the soft plastic covering just under the radiator. Once those are removed, the 2x screws securing the bottom of the transmission oil radiator can be removed. One of the screws was a pain to remove due to not much room to work. Just keep at it. I think it took me 5 min to remove with small turns and some patience.
4/26/2019:
Shifter Lingage Disconnect from Transmission: On the drivers side of the transmission, there is are 2 nuts connecting the shifter linkage cable to the transmission. Remove these 2 nuts disconnect the shifter linkage from the transmission.
4/30/2019:
Bellhousing Bolts to Engine Removal: There are 10x bolts to remove that attach the transmission to the engine. 9 are torx head bolts that require a female torx socket. 1 bolt requires a 10mm. I bought an $80 transmission jack from Harbor Freight to make my life easier. With the jack under the transmission, I removed the transmission mount and got to work on the torx bolts. Most ones on the bottom are accessible. The ones on top require lowering the transmission a bit to gain access with 2-3 feet of extensions. Once all the bolts are removed, I raised the transmission back up to it's normal position and pulled it away from the engine. Then lowered it to the ground. Transmission out.
4/30/2019:
Flywheel Removal: There a 8x 19mm bolts holding the flywheel (11221717383), shim (11221710038) and driving plate (24401216837) to the engine. Zip those off those bolts with the impact and 19mm socket and you are good.
5/13/2019:
SIDE PROJECT - OIL PAIN GASKET REPLACEMENT: Following the Bentley manual, the oil pan gasket was replaced along with the engine mount bushings. Overall it went really well. No reason not to perform this work. I am not going to document the step by step, rather just follow the Bentley manual procedure.
5/14/2019:
BMW Crank Seal Cover Gasket (11141432240) Replacement:
Remove the bolts that hold Rear Main/Crankshaft in place. Once removed, you will need a little pry action to remove. Once removed the old gasket can be removed and then replaced with new. I applied a little black RTV where the bottom of the gasket will touch the oil pan. This was done after watching the BavAuto YouTube video on this procedure. Prior to bolting down the Rear Main/Crankshaft, I removed the old Crank Seal Rear with by tapping the backside with a screw driver and hammer. Once removed, it was bolted back to the engine.
Crank Seal Rear (11142249533) Replacement:
Since the old seal was already removed in the prior step, putting on the new seal was easy. The new seal comes with a plastic ring that makes this procedure easy and does not risk tearing the seal. Place plastic ring in center, then place seal over and tap with a hammer. I made small taps around the circumference until it was flush.
Pilot Bearing (11211720310) Install:
Since the auto transmission does not have a pilot bearing, simple tap in the new pilot bearing using the appropriate sized socket and a hammer. The pilot bearing sits maybe 1/4 inch in from flush. It stops against a slightly smaller diameter inner circle. When tapping you can hear the difference in sound when all sides are flush to this stop.


TO BE CONTINUED...



Last edited by Contracheatcode; Sun, May-19-2019 at 06:48:54 PM.
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Old Wed, Apr-24-2019, 03:28:45 PM   #154
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Default Re: E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

Captain's Log: Picture of transmission/bellhousing with exhaust removed.

You can start to see where a slow leak is occurring. Any thoughts on the culprit. I'll know soon enough, but let's see some guesses !!!





Last edited by Contracheatcode; Wed, Apr-24-2019 at 03:32:40 PM.
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Old Wed, Apr-24-2019, 04:25:14 PM   #155
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Default Re: E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

What kind of fluid is this? Looks like motor oil. Rear main seal?
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Old Wed, May-01-2019, 09:11:46 PM   #156
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Default Re: E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

Here is a photo with transmission removed. The rear main seal looks ok to me. Though this is my first transmission swap.

Thoughts??? I want to address any issues before the 6-speed goes in.


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Old Wed, May-01-2019, 09:20:12 PM   #157
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Default Re: E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

looks like rear main seal or rear main seal housing gasket. Could also be oil pan but looks like it goes higher than the pan.
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Old Wed, May-01-2019, 09:55:35 PM   #158
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Default Re: E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

Time for a pan gasket.
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Old Thu, May-02-2019, 03:30:43 PM   #159
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Default Re: E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
Time for a pan gasket.

I think your right. Now that I am in there, this is what I just ordered:
  • BMW Oil Pan Gasket - Corteco 11131437237
  • BMW Engine Mount Kit - 11812283798KT
  • BMW Crank Seal Rear - Corteco 11142249533
  • BMW Crank Seal Cover Gasket - Reinz 11141432240

I passed on the buying a new starter. After looking at mine, it looks in good shape. While I cannot tell the age, it looks pretty new and might have been replaced already.

Last edited by Contracheatcode; Fri, May-03-2019 at 04:01:33 PM.
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Old Thu, May-09-2019, 04:21:02 AM   #160
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Default E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
Time for a pan gasket.
Me a thinking you are right. Transmission swap on hold while I wait for oil pan gasket and new engine mounts to arrive. (Why yes that is a piece of wood on a jack at the output to hold up the back side of engine. My solution since the transmission is off and not countering the engine support from top front)

Below is a picture of the leaking oil pan before replacing the oil pan gasket:


Oil Pump Nut:
After removing the oil pan (not hard but pretty involved). I decided to address the common oil pump nut backing off issue. Mine was still on there nice and tight. Still, why not take the extra precaution with some safety wire + Red Loctite. After breaking a 1/16 drill bit on the original nut, I simply bought the kit from BimmerWorld (part number 100.11.536.0014) and it worked great and worth the extra couple bucks. Was also an excuse to order some parts for ASC delete (to be done soon).

Engine Mount Bushings:
No reason not to replace these since it's literally a 60 second job with the front sub frame lowered

Picture of safety wire on oil pump nut. I think I did a pretty good job.


Additional pics to follow.


Last edited by Contracheatcode; Mon, May-20-2019 at 03:25:40 PM.
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Discussing E36 M3 4-Door: Contracheatcode Build Journal in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)