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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Thu, Aug-19-2010, 04:13:00 AM   #31
fiveightandten
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Was the car in a collision? Is there uneven tire wear on that side? There are a lot of reasons why the LCA may need to be replaced. There's an old proverb that goes, "He who do not have deep pockets or mechanical reasoning should not buy old German sports car"

Man, these threads suck lately.
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Old Thu, Aug-19-2010, 12:55:36 PM   #32
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"Stupid is as stupid does..." : Forest Gump
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Old Thu, Aug-19-2010, 01:03:31 PM   #33
das borgen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spankyou123 View Post
"Stupid is as stupid does..." : Forest Gump
"slow in, fast out" someone
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Old Thu, Aug-19-2010, 01:21:48 PM   #34
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I knew this was gonna be a great thread
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Old Thu, Aug-19-2010, 03:31:49 PM   #35
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Look, I'm really didn't mean to piss on anyone's Cheerios.

If the shop is in any way a reputable place, the control arm is either bent, or one of the ball joints is bad.

I know in my state, the car must pass inspection in order to get it registered. Checking the ball joints is part of that, and bad ones cause the car to fail.

That said, $700 seems really steep. It's a $180 part new from BMW, they are probably getting it a wholesale, say 30% off. It takes maybe an hour to replace it if you know what you are doing. If it includes an alignment, (I don't know why a shop quote wouldn't?) It NEEDS to be done. So, $150 part, call it 1.5 hrs of shop time, and a $130 alignment (being really generous) That's a lot of profit.

Then there's the whole 'the car has 150K miles" thing. If you are replacing 1 control arm, you can bet the other isn't far behind, along with the tie rods, and bushings. You really should think about doing it all at once, and saving money in the long run. 1 alignment, and you know it's right for about another 100K miles. (That's assuming you don't go crashing into pot holes or hit curbs, or run over small animals.)

Then! there's the back half...

Like I've said a lot lately, A used M3 is going to cost you $10-$12K in the first year or two. Pay up front, or pay as you go... Especially if you aren't doing the work yourself.
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Old Thu, Aug-19-2010, 05:31:35 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by fiveightandten View Post
There's an old proverb that goes, "He who do not have deep pockets or mechanical reasoning should not buy old German sports car"
hahaha
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Old Thu, Aug-19-2010, 06:11:11 PM   #37
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Man, these threads suck lately.
Yeah they do. They are somewhat entertaining though.
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Old Thu, Aug-19-2010, 07:24:57 PM   #38
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OP, the thought of replacing control arms is very scary until you try it. if you have a friend that is mechanically inclined/moonlights as a wrench give him a try and help him. if you are going to own this old bucket of german bolts for a while you are going to either get your hands dirty or have no money for booze and babes. I agree with sperry that if one is worn the other is not far behind. save $100 aligning the car again and do both at once.
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Old Sat, Aug-21-2010, 09:25:14 AM   #39
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a) Your shop is sketchy. Find a place to buy it online and have a more reputable shop do the work.

b) Sell the car. Everyone has a budget and such--few who buy the cars these days are in "money is no object" mode--but the feedback I'm seeing here strongly suggests you're not in position to keep the car maintained.
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Discussing $$$$$ suspension and ass $$$$$$ in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)