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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Sun, May-27-2018, 06:01:11 PM   #11
englishtom1596q
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Default Re: Transmission

I used a wood screw then used a claw hammer on it to leverage against the case. They pop out without issue. The blue caps I just put a screw driver against one side and gave it a few whacks. Once it’s loosened up the spring pops it out and it’ll rotate sideways so you can pull it the rest of the way off. As said though, the 95’s didn’t have this issue..
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Old Sun, May-27-2018, 08:46:02 PM   #12
Braymond141
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Default Re: Transmission

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Originally Posted by NolliM3 View Post
That would have great to know before I purchase all the pins/bushings...would you just change the springs and put back the original pin/bushings and the new caps? What about fifth and reverse as well as first? I never have any problems except occasionally first present a struggle to engage.
That's most likely due to clutch hydraulics and/or worn mechanical clutch components. Replacing the detents is not going to resolve that issue.
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Old Sun, May-27-2018, 10:33:08 PM   #13
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Default Re: Transmission

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Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
That's most likely due to clutch hydraulics and/or worn mechanical clutch components. Replacing the detents is not going to resolve that issue.
Okay, I put back the original pin/bushings and just tap on the new caps...did not mess with fifth, reverse nor first. I am changing the clutch master and slave cylinders as well as the clutch line to stainless steel. The nuts on the line are difficult to crack. The master cylinder seems to be a pain to change...any tips other than placing plastic sheet on the floor? I have seen Nick's video about unnecessary to compress the spring with zip ties.
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Old Thu, May-31-2018, 06:29:33 PM   #14
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Default Re: Transmission

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Originally Posted by NolliM3 View Post
That would have great to know before I purchase all the pins/bushings...would you just change the springs and put back the original pin/bushings and the new caps? What about fifth and reverse as well as first? I never have any problems except occasionally first present a struggle to engage.
If you have any questions feel free to drop me a DM. I did this on my 320. I see you have a 310 but if you wound up needing to redo what you already did I can offer some advice.

For getting the pins out, I can say that by far the easiest way was actually to put a piece of paper towel inside the pin to stop metal shavings going into the transmission, tap threads into the inside of the pin, and use a bolt to pull it out. Just to give you an idea of how stuck my pins were, I had to resort to that after trying to use a pick to hold the pin inside of the hole which is used to pass trans fluid inside of it. I wound up also having to use a tap to pull the sleeve bearings.

The shift pins are easier to pull than the 5th or reverse by far.
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Old Sun, Jun-03-2018, 01:48:34 AM   #15
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Default Re: Transmission

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Originally Posted by NolliM3 View Post
Okay, I put back the original pin/bushings and just tap on the new caps...did not mess with fifth, reverse nor first. I am changing the clutch master and slave cylinders as well as the clutch line to stainless steel. The nuts on the line are difficult to crack. The master cylinder seems to be a pain to change...any tips other than placing plastic sheet on the floor? I have seen Nick's video about unnecessary to compress the spring with zip ties.
I had to do it awhile ago when my master snapped off. Once the fluid is drained out of the line nothing came out of the master. I would have tissue just in case for a drip. As for the spring I did everything by hand, donít remember anything special except my neck hurt from being upside down
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Old Sun, Jun-03-2018, 06:14:55 AM   #16
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Default Re: Transmission

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Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
You donít need to do this on your transmission! The 310z in your 95 doesnít have detent issues, only the 320z does.
My 310z had BAD 5th gear lean. Doing the detent bushings and the shift pins fixed the issue as it did on my other car's 320z.

Less common, maybe, but it definitely affects them.
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Old Sun, Jun-03-2018, 04:05:29 PM   #17
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Default Re: Transmission

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Originally Posted by Bimmerman325i View Post
My 310z had BAD 5th gear lean. Doing the detent bushings and the shift pins fixed the issue as it did on my other car's 320z.

Less common, maybe, but it definitely affects them.
That's very uncommon. Mine had 267k miles on it. In contrast, a 320z can't even make it 50k miles.
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Old Mon, Jun-04-2018, 03:13:20 AM   #18
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Default Re: Transmission

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That's very uncommon. Mine had 267k miles on it. In contrast, a 320z can't even make it 50k miles.
I believe you...what I discovered when I removed the caps of second, third, and fourth gear is the bushing and the pin is one unit unlike the 320z.
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Discussing Transmission in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)