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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999

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Old Mon, Dec-18-2017, 04:46:21 PM   #1
blau mit weiss
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Default 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab

Iím the original owner of a Ď97 M3, mileage 82k. Itís been in and out of storage over the last 10 years, mostly in a driveway. I recently went for a smog test and a few miles down the road the temp gauge jumped to red. I knew it was the water pump. Luckily there was an indy BMW shop a few blocks away, so I let it cool down and limped in.

They replaced the water pump/thermostat and after noticing fluid around the rack, I gave them the okay to replace the power steering lines. No surprise. But when I got the bill and took a hard look at how far downhill Iíd let the car go, I was embarrassed and pissed and decided to do a full rehab. Get it as close to possible as when I drove it off the lot 20 years ago, and do all the work myself.

First off thanks to this site and the members that helped me pull this off Ė I think I broke the search button in the process. Iím not going into a lot of detail because there are so many DIYs out there already. Iíd rather point out dumb mistakes I made or issues that were unusual or not mentioned with the hope it helps someone out. So what follows is a long repair/replacement thread of trim, suspension, exhaust bolts, drivetrain, shifter bushings, steering coupler, tune up, intake manifold removal chasing a phantom battery draw, and a sway bar swap (brakes already done 10k miles earlier).

Despite intending to go 100% stock the first project was custom. I love this car but I hated constantly popping off the side skirt with my foot. So I replaced all old clips/grommets with new ones and finally got a tight connection. All done? No, the very next time I got out my foot scraped and the front half the skirt popped out again! I had enough. I noticed 2 screws holding the back edge in place, but nothing on the front.

Well, now I have one on the front. Problem solved.

I liked the Lux when it gave the impression of real wood, but once it started cracking and breaking off, screaming PLASTIC, I hated it.

I deleted all the wood and went black across the board.

That worked since my front bumper isnít Lux (slid on some ice in Chicago, hit a guardrail.) I also have the twisty side skirts but have no memory how/why/when those were replaced. Iíll keep the comfortable heated seats and cool spoiler, but other than that, so long Lux.

The steering wheel was in such rough shape I put a cheap wheel cover on it. Shame! I refurbished with Leatherique.

Seats and arm rest were worn and cracked.

I used crack filler, BMW leather black from Colourlock, and conditioned the hell out of them. Not 100% but much better.

Front hood shocks were toast, replaced. That gave me time to see the sorry state of the cowl and the crap underneath.

Gave it a vacuum, cleaned out all the dirt, replaced the cowl.

Continuing with the dirt theme I cleaned out the filthy trunk edges.

These wide gaps are begging for dirt to come in, anything to cover this area?

I spotted some dirt poking out of the rear lights and this is what I find.

After a cleaning I found some spots missing paint so I touched it up with ďColor N DriveĒ Arctic Silver. Used the same paint for door and rear view mirror edges where the paint had scratched off.

My wrenching did not start well. I stripped the bottom bolt to the rear shock trying to get it off with a breaker bar and weak Dewalt impact wrench. I had to Sawzall it off and replace it with a new one from the dealer.

No issues at the top mounts so I added reinforcement and the new Sachs shocks were in.

WTF is up with this crack? And WTH is that square piece, some kind of factory reinforcement patch?

Sway bar end links were toast.

Cleaned the bar, put in new Lemforders, ready to go. The arm opening offset to the end of the sway bar makes it a PITA,

but after some cussing and a few tries, in. Replaced the bushings and brackets, done.

Lemforder RTABs next. Man, that center through bolt is a *****. I was halfway through stripping it and stopped. I just wasnít working with the right tools. I did some research and bought the 7125 Ingersol Rand impact wrench, then went for the Schwaben RTAB tool. (I canít post in the WTS thread, so whoever contacts me first can have the RTAB tool for the cost of shipping.)

The IR did the trick and got the center bolt off. The RTAB tool did great on the first bushing, but on the second Ė problem. The tool didnít have enough real estate on the edge to get a grip.

I tried to force it and learned the toolís metal is much weaker than the control arm.

Out came the Sawzall. I cut down a quarter inch into the bushing and that gave me enough room for the tool to bite.

Pocket looked solid, no cracks or damage. I preloaded the control arm and started reinstallation. Not fun. I half ass scribed the bracket location before removal but that did nothing to help. It took all sorts of cussing and moving up/down side to side to line up the bracket bolts and get them in. I never want to do that again.

Sachs struts and Lemforder end links next.

The thin nut inside the boot is a PITA without a thin wrench, so I cut off the boot, which gave me easier access with a standard wrench (in retrospect just buy a thin wrench set).

Strut replacement was fine until I tried to get the top nut off. Tried a pass through wrench and hex socket Ė nope. Vice grips with impact wrench Ė no go. So my local shop air wrenched them off for me, gratis. I used the pass through wrench and hex ratchet to tighten it back up, done.

Replaced front sway bar bushings and shot the old brackets with Rustoleum.

Lemforder outer tie rods, very easy.

On to Lemforder control arms.

After looking at the access I was ready to just drop the sub frame and get after it. But I gave the DS nut a shot with PB and an extension coming from the top, boom off. Now the PS, where I had to come from below. I cranked at it with a 22 mm wrench a few times and it popped. All done right? Nope. For some reason I flipped the wrench over and used the box side, turned it a ľ turn, and Ö. The damn wrench was now stuck between the nut and the engine mount!

Okay then, time to change the engine mounts.

Both top nuts came off with a swivel socket and an 18 inch extension. I went with the HF tool to lift the engine and started cranking. Note: I did not have to remove fan or shroud. I unhooked the radiator clamp which allowed me to secure the whole assembly slightly tighter (see yellow clamp) to the front end, which gave enough clearance for fan to raise beyond the shroud.

Old mounts came out easy, but I couldnít get enough clearance to place the new PS mount due to the old deflection.

So I put in the new DS mount, hand tightened a new nut, then cranked up again. This offset gave the PS side the clearance needed for the new mount to slide in. Done.

While that was going on I removed the stuck wrench and went after the control arms. They came off without a fight, pickle fork was great for the knuckle. I took the new Lemforder bushings to my shop to press them into the original lollipops, 40 bucks total.

Bushing went back on the control arm easy with dish soap. Tightened everything up, done.

Time underneath the car exposed me to annoying things. One was the ďpork chopĒ or fender protectors (the center skid plate was long gone and not replaced.) The other was the beat up wheel well liners.

I tossed them, cleaned out the rocker area and inner bumper, added OEM replacements.
Also found an electrical connector without a home. A little searching says itís for the headlight washers not included with the US cars? Wonder why they wired it.

Couldnít find new rear wheel liners so I cleaned up the old ones and hit them with satin black.

Back inside the car the blower stopped working. Looked like the Final Stage Unit had failed, so I ordered one and swapped it out.

Still not working. I tried a new fuse Ė now it works. Lesson learned, try the fuse first. Luckily they accepted the FSU return at Pelican.

Couple other annoyances: broken left DS vent and broken tab on the PS seat adjuster.

Both replaced via Ebay. While swapping out the vent I replaced the headlight switch bulb. I read that Sylvania 73 was a good replacement for the bulb. Wrong. They are too thick and have different connections. Use the OEM bulb #61138360844.

Seat adjuster was replaced without removing the seat. Photo shows the location of three screw points, the rear fourth is equidistant from its front counterpart.

Use a mirror and just your hands to turn the Torx socket for removal and installation. The screws arenít on tight and you donít need to struggle with a ratchet for clearance. Edit: this POS from Ebay stopped working just before posting this. Never again Ebay, should have followed the advice here.

On to door panels and this is what I find.

That is the vapor barrier stuffed into the bottom of the door and, instead of clips, Velcro strips along the bottom. JFC. I recall my side mirrors were stolen off the car on the mean streets of Hollywood about 10 years ago. The shop that replaced them did this. Bastards. Thereís also butyl smeared all over the damn place. I cleaned it up and put in a new plastic barrier. Also replaced the missing rubber knock outs on the bottom. I replaced all the clips on the door panel, glued everything back up and reinstalled.

While working on the doors I used the paint can tool to try to find that stupid pin for the door handle gasket. I think I tried a hundred times. Iíd give it a few tries, work on the door panel, go back and give it a few tries, work on the panelÖ. I was just about to give up and put the panels back on when finally I found the damn pin, and Ö gaskets changed!

I have no guidance here, it was just luck or persistence or both.

Rear vent window trim was toast, dirt everywhere, so a full clean was a must.

First needed to remove the window, which meant pulling off the B pillar cover. I broke the top mounting clip off and had to order a new one from the dealer via Germany (not available in U.S.) for $50.

Note: Donít be a dumbass like me and throw the old B pillar out. The new part arrived without the sliding middle piece. JFC I thought thatís why they charged $50 for the damn thing! No, the sliding piece is a completely separate part for another $10. Unbelievable.

Removed window first, then the inner gasket trim. If itís purple like mine hit it with Duplicolor fabric black.

Removed lower ďcoverĒ #51368119963 by hand, snapping it up in dry pieces.

Removed upper ďcoverĒ #51368119961 thatís jammed between the window frame and the ďroof ledgeĒ #51131977681.

Roof ledge might have loosened over time, like mine, and need to be glued back in place.

Dirty areas cleaned with Goo Gone and light abrasive dish scrubber.

I replaced some missing clips on inner rear panel while I was there.

Note: The new upper cover is much wider than and the old.

When new one is installed the extra material hangs out from under roof ledge and at lower edge corner. I reinstalled the inner gasket then had to guess what to do with the extra material hanging out. I decided to tuck it in the outer edge of the inner gasket, which I believe allows the gasket to do its job, and route any water that seeps in down the channel and out the bottom.

Lower strip is perfectly molded, just peel back some of the red tape and jam it in under the upper cover and the roof ledge at the corner, then unpeel the rest and straight down the line.

For window reinstallation loosely secure corner hinge first, as this is the control for how the window will be positioned at the B pillar. I found this out by putting the inner B pillar nuts on first; I couldnít line up the rear hinge after doing that. Once itís aligned tighten everything back up, clean, done.

While this was going on the C pillars came off without a problem. I removed the rear shelf and hit it with the Duplicolor fabric paint (with the inner gaskets above).

While that was off I took out the headliner. Took me two minutes with a wire brush to get old glue off. Bought OEM material from Veteran Co, dropped it off at a local upholster (Iím not good with crafty stuff like that), $100 cash and a handshake, ready to go back in.

The DS door seal was frayed near the window, and torn up where my foot would hit getting in and out of the car. Pricey at $300, but Iíve gone this far so WTH. The inner sill trim piece covering the seal is set with clips and popped off fairly easily. It was a struggle to get it back on without cracking the plastic. The tricky part is where the piece dives between the rear seat and the rear panel, but done with more fiddling and cussing.

Note: the new seal is thicker than the old one due to wear over time, depressed with repeated door closings. This pushed my window a little off track near the B pillar. Now it closes against the outside of the roof ledge rather than the inside. Annoying but Iíll live with it, no desire to revisit this now.

One of my contours had the clear coat peeling and it looked like crap. I tried the aircraft spray and it did nothing, so I brushed on paint remover. That worked on the clear coat but also removed the paint, so after four or five rounds of scraping and brushing I was down to bare metal (get the right gloves, that stuff eats through everything). Everywhere I looked the Wurtz silver metallic was the OEM go to. Nope. The Wurtz specified in the DIYs looked matte silver when sprayed on, nothing like metallic silver of the other wheels. I tried Duplicolor Universal Silver and it was pretty close. Used the Wurtz clear lacquer for finish and Ö eh, just okay.

Not close enough to the others for my taste, so Iím going to redo it or get a pro involved.

Changed the oil, spark plugs (used the trunk tool for the hell of it), boots (new ones have different shape and supersede the originals), cleaned the MAF sensor, air filter, micro filter, o2 sensors, and fuel filter.

The 02 sensor wires twisted so excessively when tightening CW, I thought I was damaging them. So I twisted them as much as possible CCW before installing, so they were relatively straight when nut was tight.

Also bought the 02 removal tool but it only worked on one of the sensors, I think it was Bank 1. Bank 2 had to be removed with a 22mm wrench because it was impossible for me to work around the pipes and control arm to use the 02 tool with a swivel and ratchet.

Fuel filter housing was beat up and rusted so I cleaned and hit it with Rustoleum (tried to replace it with new, couldnít find one). Replaced all the rusted clamps.

The micro filter wasnít as big a PITA as made out in the DIYs. Just need to get medieval with the air vent wedged into the metal cross brace push it down and out of the way.

Electrical harness is disconnected by putting a flat head in the middle to release the plastic catch, then push the whole unit up for release.

You can reach through and turn this plastic cover thing.

Youíre blind from here on, but itís easy to reach in and pull out the filter. Mine came out in pieces with a bunch of leaves. New one is cracked into three pieces and, again, blind, put in with some fiddling and cussing.

Tranny drain plug started leaking a bit, so I bought a new one. I tried to budge the upper tranny fill bolt with a long breaker bar, no go. So I tried the breaker bar/floor jack method Ö nope. I gave up and decided to punt to the shop when I got the alignment. Sourced a couple quarts of Pentosin and ready to go in, but then I see the sorry state of the calipers before putting wheels back on ...

Nope, with everything else Iím doing might as well deal with this too. Caliper paint fresh up first.

I knew the guibo had some minor cracks, so that was up next with the CSB. So before going into the shop I checked the exhaust bolts for Section 2 Ė too rusted, no chance I could remove them (though one has disappeared on its own).

I bought new bolts from the dealer (highway robbery $) and gaskets and sent it in to the shop. Note: I read the ďDefinitive AlignmentĒ article after this, and unfortunately let them do a factory alignment rather than the performance settings. Mistake.

This is at the shop, all the bolts snapped.

$300 worth of labor later they drilled them off, put in the new the pieces, and I now have the ability to easily remove to access the drivetrain. All good right? Wrong.
The new bolts spin when removing the nuts, old ones were splined. It is a true PITA to hold the bolts while removing the damn nuts, which are apparently engineered to seize toward the end of the threads. One of them wouldnít budge. I was finally able to find an angle to come from above with a breaker bar/extension/swivel socket, wedge it into the engine bay, then impact wrench the nut off. The twisted damage.

The last bolt was almost impossible to access as itís near the fire wall at an awkward angle. I tried from above with same set up prior Ė no go, the socket kept popping off. I came from below with this awkward contraption,

put as much downward pressure on the top of the bolt with one hand, then shot the nut with the other hand and boom, Section 2 was finally off and on my chest.

Turns out my driveshaft doesnít have the locking collar to split the drivetrain in all the DIYs, but rather an 18mm bolt within the U joint. GREAT.

I fought this damn bolt for three days. Liquid Wrench soaked, double box wrench for leverage Ė no go. I went with a huge pipe wrench to turn the shaft with box wrench wedged up against the body Ė no go. I gave up when I noticed it starting to strip. Iíve never felt any vibrations and the CSB was still in decent shape with little horizontal play, so it would have to stay for now.

Giubo bolts came off with some PB and hard cranking.

For removal I just moved the drivetrain out of way with support from a floor jack. Note for reinstallation: the three bolts that directly touch the giubo and connect to tranny have washers, the three connecting to the driveshaft do not.

Perfect time to do the tranny mounts so knocked that out, easy. The PS side was noticeably more squeezed than the DS, just like the engine mounts. There a reason for this?

Last edited by Obioban; Mon, Dec-18-2017 at 07:18:29 PM.
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Old Mon, Dec-18-2017, 04:47:46 PM   #2
blau mit weiss
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Default 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab Part 2

Did this before reinstalling drivetrain. Looks nasty up there, tranny seal is leaking.

ECS Tuning shifter kit already in hand but it doesnít include a new seal! WTH? It should, especially at only $3. So now I have to wait for a new one (# 23121282394) from the dealer. Old seal would not come out with a pick or a seal removal tool. The rubber outside bit was virtually gone, so I tapped the new one in right over the top of the old. Seal now tight.

There are two DIYs, Pelican and ECS. Pelican has more pics but uses a different shift rod joint. ECS is specific to their kit, but missing some details. I used both. Some missing details:

- They ignore the original yellow plastic washers and none are included in the kit. I found they are still needed on the shift lever connection. I only reused one there, but I could see using two with some effort.
- I used this long thin screwdriver for the ***** clip and under the circlip holding the dowel on the shift rod joint. Worked like a charm with a few whacks of the hammer for both.

- The new sponge in the shift rod joint is hard and stops the dowel pin from being inserted. Work the sponge with your finger to soften before attempting to install. Even after the dowel pin is in it will want to stick to the sponge. I wedged a channel lock up in there to push the pin all the way down.
- The correct position of the shifter lever itself is straightforward but I got all twisted around and installed it backwards. After freaking out a bit with weird gear patterns I went back under and turned it 180 degrees, to its correct position, and done, everything golden.

Iíve read that some people have done the above without removing Section 2 or the driveshaft. If thatís true they must be wizards.

Before reinstalling the heat shield and exhaust I gave the underside a clean. Hey, thereís an M3 label on the rear sub frame.

I shot the rear exhaust flanges with some high heat Rustoleum as they were really rusted and worn down. This gasket runs on the PS outside of the pipe and will likely need replacing (the other DS gasket is inside and fine to reuse). Real OEMís diagram is confusing, even the dealer couldnít figure out what was what. The part you want is #18111723721.

My old battery kept needing a recharge so I was lazy and bought a Bosch and a new hold down (original was missing). The Bosh drained a bit a week later so I got on the multi meter and it showed a 4 amp draw! Went through all the fuses and relays, found nothing. Checked the trunk wires, they were fine. Took out the alternator and tested again. Still a draw. I already ordered a rebuilt one from Pelican, so WTH I replaced the alternator.

Last culprit I could find was the starter so off with the intake manifold.

Only had to remove the PS windshield wiper, which allowed the cowl to be lifted to remove the middle heat shield and give clearance for the wire harness to move up. Removing the air and throttle body was straightforward. I pulled the wire bails off the electric rail, unplugged it, and left the O2 sensors connected. The injectors were in really tight to the fuel rail, so I left them on and pulled them off the manifold. No fuel spills out this way, nice.

The DIYs didnít really help identify the spaghetti of hoses under the manifold, so I had to guess. Under the manifold I took off the 2 bolts on the outer edge of the bracket holding the CCV and ICV, and left the inner 2 holding the bracket. Dipstick is attached to bracket with one bolt. Loosened this front arm bracket at the engine block and pushed it toward the front of the car to give me more room (I left the back one tight, not in the way).

Unplugged hose connections to CCV and unscrewed clamp holding hose to ICV. Right in the middle there are three hoses, 1 small black, 1 medium black, and the black/yellow shown in the photo, along with the temperature sensor. Unplugged them all. Two fuel lines are attached by a clip at the back of the manifold, clip unlocks pushing down. Manifold can now be removed with bracket, CCV and ICV still attached.

Now that I can access the starter I disconnect the power and Ö Iím still getting a draw. Crap. Bad news I just tore up my hands taking everything apart and I still have no idea whatís draining the battery. Good news is I donít have to deal with the insanely placed bolts to replace the starter. A week later I checked the battery and it was still holding 12.5 volts just fine. ??? I checked on the draw and still got a 4 amp read, WTH? I have no idea. Iím probably doing something wrong with the multi meter, but as long as the draw is phantom, who cares, Iím moving on.

While everything was off I cleaned the throttle, the ICV (stuck), and the inner manifold. Replaced the CCV and the manifold gasket with new OEM. Sent old fuel injectors to RC Engineering for cleaning Ė what a nice presentation.

They also give you performance of the injectors before/after cleaning.

Checked all my plumbing and everything looked fine, so no replacements. I did crack apart the rubber DME cover while doing all this but there is now way in hell Iím paying $150 for a replacement. Insane. I just tossed it.

Note: Hook everything back together tight before reinstalling throttle, etc. as this will be the last chance with easy access. Did I do this? No, I did not. I kicked on the ICV fault codes because I, continuing the dumbass theme, forgot to reinstall the clamp necessary to get a vacuum seal. So I had to go back and do it after, threading a long flat tip screwdriver through the throttle cable to get the clamp on tight. PITA.

Caution: I also had a misfire and the CEL came on when I took it out for a test drive. The code said cylinder 6 so I changed the coil and the plug but it still misfired during the next test drive. An intense gas smell hit the cabin while I was stuck at a red light, so I freaked out, swerved around traffic, pulled it into a parking lot and turned it off pronto. Popped the hood and found the number 6 injector leaking. Turns out I hadnít put the metal clamp on the 6 fuel injector correctly and gas had spewed all over the engine cover. Wow that could have been a disaster. Make sure all clamps #1351274729 are tight and in correct position, replace with new if necessary.

At 82k I decided to change the coupler/giubo. First I made sure wheel was centered then marked the open slot locations on the splines and removed the bolts, all straightforward.

I hit the coupler with Liquid Wrench then wedged in a screwdriver in the slot and whacked it a few times with a hammer to loosen it up. I couldnít access the upper portion slot so I turned the car on and turned the wheel slightly to give me access, then whacked it some more.
The DS side of the rack wouldnít budge since the coupler was still on tight so I had to figure out a way to move it up the spline. The sub frame partially blocks it from below and itís a really awkward angle to hit it with a hammer or jam a screwdriver. Luckily my intake manifold was still out so I could access the coupler from above. I hit the top of it with a hammer a few times and that pushed it down, loosening it all up.

Went back below and I was now able to move it up the splines with a hammer and screwdriver enough to pull it off the rack. Old one doesnít look too bad. Some deflection and softness but no cracks.

New one went on easy, toughest part was tightening the bolts, not much room up there. Note: I donít think I could have moved the coupler without hitting it from above to loosen. You should be able to get access from above just removing the air box and MAF.

Final details: new floor mats, valve stem caps, M stickers for wheels.

Took it out for the initial spin and had some fun on a canyon road. Engine felt sharp, no complaints with the S52. Iíve always loved the low end torque in this car. But the steering didnít feel as crisp as I would have hoped, and the body roll and understeer were a bummer. Iím not tracking the car but I want it to feel tight when aggressively cornering. Looks like a front sway bar upgrade is the go to for body roll, so despite wanting to stay stock, I bought the Hotchkis replacement.

Insert girth joke here.

Damn this thing is heavy. I bought a thin wrench set for the swap to help with the end links.

Go back out on the canyon and WOW! The handling of this car has been transformed. It hugs tight corners like a champ and turns on a dime. The understeer is dramatically decreased, and pushing it gives me a nice squeal from the rear tires (I think). I love it.

Iím taking a break for a bit, then Iíll deal with the Vanos seals and secure the oil pump nut. I think Iíll upgrade the headlights also. If I missed anything please let me know, I now have the wrenching bug.

Iím never selling the car, but itíll be interesting to watch where values go in the future. Hopefully the S52 doesnít hold it back too much.
Thanks again!

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Old Mon, Dec-18-2017, 07:04:55 PM   #3
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Default Re: 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab Part 2

Nice work! How long did you spend doing all of this?

My 98 was in similar condition when I bought it nearly two years ago. I've methodically been going through and replacing most of what you've replaced already. But I'm also giving myself lots of breaks in between so I can still drive it.

Currently on the agenda are all the rear subframe bushings. Every one of them is being replaced and I'm rebuilding/repacking the axles. I will likely also replace my shifter bushings now, while the car is in the air and I've already got the exhaust off.

Anyway, you've done more than I have already, and it looks great. Giving me motivation to tackle more of the interior of my car, next.
98 M3/4/5 Silver
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Old Mon, Dec-18-2017, 07:30:11 PM   #4
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Default Re: 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab

Reading this took me back to my entire 1 yr history with my 99 Silver M3 from craigslist about 1 year ago...... 180 K Miles..... almost identical parts/repairs list!

1999 E36M3 5spd - ls swap in progress (project pasta muncher)
2001 360Modena 6spd
2018 M2 DCT
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Old Mon, Dec-18-2017, 09:05:34 PM   #5
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Default Re: 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab

Good lord! Sounds like you had a hell of a time for only 80k on the car. Great work getting it back in top shape.
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Old Mon, Dec-18-2017, 09:10:59 PM   #6
blau mit weiss
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Default Re: 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab Part 2

Originally Posted by JGard View Post
Nice work! How long did you spend doing all of this?

My 98 was in similar condition when I bought it nearly two years ago. I've methodically been going through and replacing most of what you've replaced already. But I'm also giving myself lots of breaks in between so I can still drive it.

Currently on the agenda are all the rear subframe bushings. Every one of them is being replaced and I'm rebuilding/repacking the axles. I will likely also replace my shifter bushings now, while the car is in the air and I've already got the exhaust off.

Anyway, you've done more than I have already, and it looks great. Giving me motivation to tackle more of the interior of my car, next.
Good luck! All this was done over about 8 months on weekends. Definitely do the bushings, it really isn't that tough. I didn't notice too much of a difference afterward but doing it gave me piece of mind.
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Old Mon, Dec-18-2017, 09:13:47 PM   #7
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Default Re: 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab

Originally Posted by englishtom1596q View Post
Good lord! Sounds like you had a hell of a time for only 80k on the car. Great work getting it back in top shape.
Thanks man. Yeah it was my own fault for not looking after it the last 10 years, I deserved to have my ass kicked. Got distracted playing with other toys, but I'm super happy it's back in shape.
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Old Mon, Dec-18-2017, 10:01:14 PM   #8
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Default Re: 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab

Love seeing these cars brought back to their former glory! Seems you did a very thorough job.

I'll be doing the rear window vent trim on my E46 soon as well, seeing the process on your E36 is helpful.

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Old Mon, Dec-18-2017, 10:53:40 PM   #9
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Default Re: 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab

Good job taking interest in the car again!

20 years is crazy!!
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Old Tue, Dec-19-2017, 12:33:31 PM   #10
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Default Re: 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab

Nice work.

I'm amazed the same person that neglected it for 20 years was then inspired to do all that work

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Discussing 97 M3 20th Anniversary Rehab in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)