[STR8F4C3]

Hey everyone,

My name is Dawson. Been hanging around the forum for a little bit, just got my E46 M3 a couple weeks back. Drove it home 1500km, no issues except for a really loud rattling when in first gear and at idle. Just figured it was fan clutch, and was just going to order the part and put it in. However, first day I got it back to where I live, the slave cylinder blew up, spit CHF fluid all over the clutch and two weeks later, I have a car with a fresh clutch. (Rattle went away as well) When I got the car back, it was having an issue with dropping into limp mode when it went above 50% throttle, then returning to normal after shutting off and starting the car. Managed to get it home and back to the shop for an out of province inspection without issue, and then on the way home this evening it threw the cel. So I pulled out my laptop and BMW logger to find out it's code 230 which is related to throttle setting not matching the actual position. I clear it, and try the whole "turn key to position two, then off etc" to reset the throttle adaptation and see if that helps the issue. I go to start the car, and the SMG gear indicator just blinks zero and refuses to go into gear. I've read that this can be due to hood sensors, so I tried opening/shutting the hood, which ended up working. The throttle reset did nothing to help the limp mode. Then, I went to drive the car to the car wash (about twenty mins from my house) and on the highway to get there my oil light comes on, which I thought was a little weird, but continued driving anyways. 5 minutes later, I go to shift up a gear, and the indicator light just blinks the gear and refuses to engage. I then tried shifting back down, and it engaged, but wouldn't actually put any power down and switched between two rev levels depending on whether the gas pedal was pushed down. I pulled over, restarted the car and everything was well and my oil light shut back off. This continued to happen as I drove, and I resolved to just get the car back home to avoid any issues. After I got it home i tried swapping a salmon relay, jumping the battery, disconnecting the battery, slamming the hood closed, but it completely refused to start, just blinking "0" whether in gear or not. I checked codes and it only shows codes 17 and 177, neither of which exist on the code list. So: here's my question. What can I try to get my car to at the very least turn on and get into gear? And as a side note, the shop that did my clutch said they didn't have the software to perform a dme reset for the throttle issue, but I'd rather not make the 2 hour drive, so if anyone has any ideas for that it would also be appreciated.

Ps. Sorry for the incredibly long post, just wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything!

[rovert604]

Check this for SMG codes:
https://burkhart-engineering.com/SMG-Wiki/en

Make sure you’re hearing your SMG pump prime when you unlock the car or just after you open the door if it’s already unlocked. If it’s silent after doing that your pump motor is probably the culprit. But there are so many others. Hope that link helps you.

Normally when your engine is on and SMG sensors see there is an error or loss in pressure it will drop the transmission into neutral and stay there to allow you to tow the car.

If you can get it into gear then make sure the transmission is left in neutral when you park at home but make sure your parking brake works good or use wheel chocks. The car will bing and complain for ten seconds that it’s not parked in gear then silence itself.

You’re going to need help diagnosing with the codes if you can’t do it yourself. Those will allow you to really narrow down what it is. I was able to narrow down and change the SMG motor within a week and back on the road. I made sure to leave my car in neutral just in case. Be safe when jacking up the car like that and enjoy the journey because once it’s dealt with, you’ll be even smarter and have much appreciation to what you purchase when you get to feel what it was built to do.

[STR8F4C3]

Originally Posted by rovert604

Check this for SMG codes:
https://burkhart-engineering.com/SMG-Wiki/en

Make sure you’re hearing your SMG pump prime when you unlock the car or just after you open the door if it’s already unlocked. If it’s silent after doing that your pump motor is probably the culprit. But there are so many others. Hope that link helps you.

Normally when your engine is on and SMG sensors see there is an error or loss in pressure it will drop the transmission into neutral and stay there to allow you to tow the car.

If you can get it into gear then make sure the transmission is left in neutral when you park at home but make sure your parking brake works good or use wheel chocks. The car will bing and complain for ten seconds that it’s not parked in gear then silence itself.

You’re going to need help diagnosing with the codes if you can’t do it yourself. Those will allow you to really narrow down what it is. I was able to narrow down and change the SMG motor within a week and back on the road. I made sure to leave my car in neutral just in case. Be safe when jacking up the car like that and enjoy the journey because once it’s dealt with, you’ll be even smarter and have much appreciation to what you purchase when you get to feel what it was built to do.

Thanks very much. I will make sure the pump is priming when I get home, as well as check the codes. Will update.

[STR8F4C3]

Update: the SMG pump primes 100% okay, there are no codes appearing, all electrical seems to be okay. Upon turning key to start position, there is a whirring noise. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[rovert604]

What are you using to check codes?

[MrVond]

what diagnostic tool did you use?

[jared212]

Why are you ignoring the code 230? That is probably your gas pedal.

[STR8F4C3]

Originally Posted by jared212

Why are you ignoring the code 230? That is probably your gas pedal.

Thanks for the replies. Ended up being a leak in the SMG supply line. Drove fine for a little while, then began dropping out of gear and SMG and cel lights came on. Figured it was just overheating as it was really warm out today, so I drove it home, let it cool off. SMG cog went away, after it cooled off, then cleared cel codes 17, 177 and 230 with inpa. Started leaking again so it went back to the shop tonight, no lights or anything but I don't really wanna take any chances.

When you say gas pedal, are you referring to the throttle sensor? I've read 230 can be related to any of the three throttle position sensors, the shop recommended that the EDK be reset or replaced. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.

[jared212]

Yea. Throttle sensor integral to gas pedal assembly. I think there is a seperate code for the EDK. I replaced pedal, both TPS to resolve code 230 didn't fix until I did pedal.

Seems like the other codes could be attributable to the leak and responsible for not going into gear. The whirring sound probably got the mechanic interested in EDK. It's a big money part new. Edk comes with a new TPS on it that could be the real culprit at a much lower price but if wrong then the intake comes off again which is why they go for the whole unit. That's part of the reason why DIY is alive and well on this platform.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[STR8F4C3]

Originally Posted by jared212

Yea. Throttle sensor integral to gas pedal assembly. I think there is a seperate code for the EDK. I replaced pedal, both TPS to resolve code 230 didn't fix until I did pedal.

Seems like the other codes could be attributable to the leak and responsible for not going into gear. The whirring sound probably got the mechanic interested in EDK. It's a big money part new. Edk comes with a new TPS on it that could be the real culprit at a much lower price but if wrong then the intake comes off again which is why they go for the whole unit. That's part of the reason why DIY is alive and well on this platform.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I did an EDK test through DIS v44 and from the looks of things the only issue is with the "full load adaptation". diagnostic info says to check servomotor leads, which I will do in the next day or so. If that doesn't work, I'll be ordering a pedal assembly and a top tps. I have an appointment at the shop recommended to me, but that's a couple weeks out. Will update.