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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Wed, Sep-06-2017, 04:49:59 AM   #1
DavesE46
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Location: Nr Salisbury

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Exclamation Need an SMG expert pleeease! Code 59: Clutch Actuation Dynamic

Hi guys, this is my first post here! Please trust me that I've trawled everywhere for the last few weeks now and I really need someone that can see some logical sense in this or has come across the exact same symptoms and know what fixed it for them, there are so many loose-ended threads out there, it's driving me crazy lol... I will keep this thread updated with whatever fixes this if I don't end up selling it or converting it to a manual lol (I really hope it doesn't come to any of those)

This problem I'm having presented itself when I took the car for it's MOT when they couldn't start it back up, right after I handed the keys to them

At that time, I already knew of an existing, different problem with code 56 (switching-on time of hydraulic unit) where it would drop out of gear but only happened on warm days, the past 2 summers. Since the MOT, I've replaced the electric motor from burkhart engineering, plus the temp sensor and using their oil - what a difference that made! (On a side note, it pressurises so much quicker now and the motor is really quiet - I can hardly hear it)

Anyway back to the current issue, remember, this problem presented itself before I changed the motor when it went for an MOT, so I can rule out anything I did since removing the pump... The car drives perfectly, with no clutch judders or anything, but after allowing it to get fully up to temperature, if I turn the car off, it will not start again for at least 4 hours or so. I've tried unplugging the battery for 10 mins, changing the salmon relay(even though I know the pump is working), rocking the car back and forth (lol) but still, Code 59 is present in INPA. I've kept an eye on the Clutch Position in INPA and see no astronomical values or anything different from when it's cold and starting fine, which makes me think the PLCD sensor is ok too?

The other day, I tried something different after taking it out again and warming it up; I put it into neutral instead before turning it off and to my surprise it started right back up, but this time the engine light was on. So I read the engine codes and there were a few being strangely related to vanos and others which I've never seen before, or again since I cleared them ok (I wish I took a print out). I could turn the car off and start it back up again many times, even leaving it in gear too as I would normally, and those engine codes never reappeared and no smg cog light either. :confused: ...So I took the car for another drive and this time, the smg cog light came on whilst driving! Reading the codes showed a sporadic error 128 (CAN bus error). I'm unsure whether this "fix" leaving it neutral, was just a coincidence but I will have a go at replicating this within the the next few days! Despite this, as of the last time I took it out, turning the car off in 1st gear, I'm back to the original Code 59 once I've taken it out for a drive and try to restart it.

Does it sound to anyone like it's possible the SMG Control Unit is playing up?
It may be unrelated but a couple of months before I started having this problem, the battery was very weak, it frequently died and I had to carry a jump pack around with me to get it to crank over and even then, the juice was a bit limited causing a slow crank before it would start. Having since been told how sensitive the electronics on these cars apparently are, I'm starting to think it could be the SMG Control Unit might be damaged in some way? My local indy tells me I need a new pump which I'm struggling to believe since there seems to be nothing wrong while its running.

I've tried to spurt this out in some kind of readable fashion and I apologise for the length! It's late/early here, I've had a little to drink as well lol ...I'd really appreciate an expert opinion or from anyone that has had similar experience. Many thanks in advance to anyone that read this far or can offer any help!!

Best Regards,
Dave
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Old Wed, Sep-06-2017, 06:33:06 PM   #2
jared212
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Default Re: Need an SMG expert pleeease! Code 59: Clutch Actuation Dynamic

Dave, Burkhart seems very clear that it is a worn clutch and or the plcd/clutch actuator assembly. I wouldn't second guess their smg wiki chart.
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Old Wed, Apr-25-2018, 12:55:28 PM   #3
R-power
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Default Re: Need an SMG expert pleeease! Code 59: Clutch Actuation Dynamic

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavesE46 View Post
Hi guys, this is my first post here! Please trust me that I've trawled everywhere for the last few weeks now and I really need someone that can see some logical sense in this or has come across the exact same symptoms and know what fixed it for them, there are so many loose-ended threads out there, it's driving me crazy lol... I will keep this thread updated with whatever fixes this if I don't end up selling it or converting it to a manual lol (I really hope it doesn't come to any of those)

This problem I'm having presented itself when I took the car for it's MOT when they couldn't start it back up, right after I handed the keys to them

At that time, I already knew of an existing, different problem with code 56 (switching-on time of hydraulic unit) where it would drop out of gear but only happened on warm days, the past 2 summers. Since the MOT, I've replaced the electric motor from burkhart engineering, plus the temp sensor and using their oil - what a difference that made! (On a side note, it pressurises so much quicker now and the motor is really quiet - I can hardly hear it)

Anyway back to the current issue, remember, this problem presented itself before I changed the motor when it went for an MOT, so I can rule out anything I did since removing the pump... The car drives perfectly, with no clutch judders or anything, but after allowing it to get fully up to temperature, if I turn the car off, it will not start again for at least 4 hours or so. I've tried unplugging the battery for 10 mins, changing the salmon relay(even though I know the pump is working), rocking the car back and forth (lol) but still, Code 59 is present in INPA. I've kept an eye on the Clutch Position in INPA and see no astronomical values or anything different from when it's cold and starting fine, which makes me think the PLCD sensor is ok too?

The other day, I tried something different after taking it out again and warming it up; I put it into neutral instead before turning it off and to my surprise it started right back up, but this time the engine light was on. So I read the engine codes and there were a few being strangely related to vanos and others which I've never seen before, or again since I cleared them ok (I wish I took a print out). I could turn the car off and start it back up again many times, even leaving it in gear too as I would normally, and those engine codes never reappeared and no smg cog light either. :confused: ...So I took the car for another drive and this time, the smg cog light came on whilst driving! Reading the codes showed a sporadic error 128 (CAN bus error). I'm unsure whether this "fix" leaving it neutral, was just a coincidence but I will have a go at replicating this within the the next few days! Despite this, as of the last time I took it out, turning the car off in 1st gear, I'm back to the original Code 59 once I've taken it out for a drive and try to restart it.

Does it sound to anyone like it's possible the SMG Control Unit is playing up?
It may be unrelated but a couple of months before I started having this problem, the battery was very weak, it frequently died and I had to carry a jump pack around with me to get it to crank over and even then, the juice was a bit limited causing a slow crank before it would start. Having since been told how sensitive the electronics on these cars apparently are, I'm starting to think it could be the SMG Control Unit might be damaged in some way? My local indy tells me I need a new pump which I'm struggling to believe since there seems to be nothing wrong while its running.

I've tried to spurt this out in some kind of readable fashion and I apologise for the length! It's late/early here, I've had a little to drink as well lol ...I'd really appreciate an expert opinion or from anyone that has had similar experience. Many thanks in advance to anyone that read this far or can offer any help!!

Best Regards,
Dave
@DavesE46
Exactly same issue.
Cold working
Hot not.
Which way have you fixed this issue?
Thx a lot in advance from italy

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Discussing Streamline & Dr M3an M3's CSL Airbox Development Journal Collaboration in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)