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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Oct-28-2016, 10:37:28 PM   #481
DavidM310
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Default Re: Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

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Originally Posted by nemesys6 View Post
m literally gonna go down the list and order everything on this list. Dump off a box of parts and a tranny at the shop and come back in a week lol


I posted a parts list that I used if you want to check that out. Just click on my profile and look for threads started by. The name of the thread is the same as this one + addendum.
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Old Sat, Oct-29-2016, 07:51:39 AM   #482
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Default Re: Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

Question regarding step 2 recoding the DSC, AKMB, and EWS. What I understand, these 3 modules need to be coded with the new VO ($793 removed)? If I am wrong, can someone explain. TIA

1) Remove $793 from the vehicle order and write the new vehicle order to the AKMB and ALSZ

2) Recode the DSC, AKMB, and EWS* (I don't believe any other modules are different, but you can recode all of them if you want to be safe).

3) Flash the DME with the 6MT software** (or alternatively, read the ECU data with something like BMWFlash, change the byte at offset 8 from 40 to 03 in both sections, and flash back to the car).

4) Clear all DME adaptions with INPA

5) Start the car.

* EWS shouldn't have to be coded on US cars if you wired the clutch switch properly.

** The actual software revision will vary on region and MSS54/MSS54HP. Reference the MSS54/MSS54HP reference sticky to find the right version

Last edited by LSB FTW; Sat, Oct-29-2016 at 07:54:51 AM.
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Old Tue, Nov-01-2016, 06:06:27 PM   #483
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Default Re: Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

Sorry to sound somewhat superficial but figured you guys would be in the best position to know. Which shift knob (main concern is the height, so longer or shorter) did you guys go with (paired with a Rogue SSK although the others should be similar)? Personally, tend to have my wrist on it, so trying to see which one is level with the right armrest. Both ZHP and Momo and presume others have 2 heights. Thinking of the shorter one but don't want it to be too short. thanks.
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Old Tue, Nov-01-2016, 08:28:14 PM   #484
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Default Re: Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

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Originally Posted by roman-dude View Post
Sorry to sound somewhat superficial but figured you guys would be in the best position to know. Which shift knob (main concern is the height, so longer or shorter) did you guys go with (paired with a Rogue SSK although the others should be similar)? Personally, tend to have my wrist on it, so trying to see which one is level with the right armrest. Both ZHP and Momo and presume others have 2 heights. Thinking of the shorter one but don't want it to be too short. thanks.
It's not good to rest ur wrist on the knob lol
Here's my BMW performance short shifter with F10 Knob. It's hard to tell with a pic but when it's on 6th gear my arms is a little bit lower on the shifter side compared to the armrest (maybe 1/2in). It's similar with the zhp knob. I had the uuc ssk and it's about the same.



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Old Wed, Nov-02-2016, 03:35:53 AM   #485
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Default Re: Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zabalzae View Post
It's not good to rest ur wrist on the knob lol
Here's my BMW performance short shifter with F10 Knob. It's hard to tell with a pic but when it's on 6th gear my arms is a little bit lower on the shifter side compared to the armrest (maybe 1/2in). It's similar with the zhp knob. I had the uuc ssk and it's about the same.



thanks!
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Old Fri, Nov-04-2016, 12:52:24 AM   #486
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Default Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by LSB FTW View Post
Question regarding step 2 recoding the DSC, AKMB, and EWS. What I understand, these 3 modules need to be coded with the new VO ($793 removed)? If I am wrong, can someone explain. TIA

1) Remove $793 from the vehicle order and write the new vehicle order to the AKMB and ALSZ

2) Recode the DSC, AKMB, and EWS* (I don't believe any other modules are different, but you can recode all of them if you want to be safe).

3) Flash the DME with the 6MT software** (or alternatively, read the ECU data with something like BMWFlash, change the byte at offset 8 from 40 to 03 in both sections, and flash back to the car).

4) Clear all DME adaptions with INPA

5) Start the car.

* EWS shouldn't have to be coded on US cars if you wired the clutch switch properly.

** The actual software revision will vary on region and MSS54/MSS54HP. Reference the MSS54/MSS54HP reference sticky to find the right version


Step 2: You need to remove any SMG related coding from the 3 modules stated, also change any coding which states if it's an SMG to manual, quite hard to explain but you need to use NCSexpert, NCS dummy will help understand which things the change / remove
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Old Wed, Nov-23-2016, 06:08:00 AM   #487
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Default Re: Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

I just completed an SMG to manual swap on my 11.2003 E46 M3 convertible with 93k miles. I got tired of the danger of the car slipping into neutral in traffic when it was hot, but also wanted to try the car with a manual transmission. I did the resistor hack which worked for two years, but when problems resurfaced decided on the swap.

Here are some tips I picked up along the way:

1) This DIY (MP675) along with Rontgen’s SMG-to-6MT Bellhousing Modifications post were invaluable. Many thanks to the original and other posters!

2) Getting to and breaking loose the trans to engine bolts was difficult. When reinstalling I added Grade 8 washers as recommended in the Bentley manual to make it easier to remove in the future (which I hope to never do!).

3) Manual bellhousings are in short supply (and pricey) given the popularity of conversions. Reuse your SMG bellhousing and use a mod service or get it done by a local machine shop. My shop chose to use hydraulic plugs instead of snap rings as they felt it easier than machining for the snap rings. I documented this in Rontgen’s post. Also, I used the 520G spring (BMW p/n 23311228487) which is supposedly stiffer and the BMW Performance short shifter (BMW p/n 25117527259) and ZHP shift knob. I think it is perfect, I hate wet noodle shifters!



4) I recommend installing the manual gear position sensor (GPS), you only need to tap with 14mm x 1.5 tap. This is very easy, just take your time, use a lot of grease to catch the chips, and clean and regrease the tap every several turns. A number of folks have skipped the GPS, it can be programmed around, but I have seen several cases of programming issues without it.

5) When installing the shift bracket in the tunnel, it is a lot easier not to remove the block off plate. I drilled a 3 1/4 hole with a bimetal hole saw instead. Best to drill from the top as you can center the drill on the hole outline and make sure all wires are out of the way as the drill may kick and damage them. The insulating material in the tunnel is very difficult to remove, I used a wire wheel and only took it away where the bracket sits. There were 3 welds that I ground flush so the bracket would sit flat. That is a lot less than you see in the DIY. The bracket will sit slightly lower (the thickness of the block off plate, so I put a washer under the back to level it out. This dimension is not that critical, it might change the angle of the shifter an insignificant amount. Way less work than in the DIY, and less bare metal exposed. I used rivets in 5 locations, including the arms so they don't cause a rattle.

6) The electrical description was confusing, but correct. The GPS is wired in series with the clutch switch by reusing the SMG harness temp sensor wires and connector (this is the black connector that you cut the tab off of). That makes two electrical connections to the transmission a) the existing connector to the white backup switch, which you plug back in and b) the recycled SMG temp sensor connector (which you cut the tab off so it will plug in to the GPS).

7) Make sure to disassemble the connectors before pushing the MQS connectors into place. I did not do this for initially for the EWS connection as it was so hard to get to, the car would not start until I figured out that the pin was not making contact. Also the clutch switch needs to be clipped into the holder on the clutch pedal to work.

8) One item not covered clearly in the original DIY is the additional wire that is needed if your car was produced after 5.2003 to get reverse mirror tilt / PDC to work. There are other posts that cover this topic. Basically you connect Pin 7 (0.75 MQS) that plugs into the X11176 (white) connector behind the instrument cluster to the X428 (blue/yellow) bundle above the fuse box. I just soldered a wire to the open tab on X428 as my local dealer did not have the spade connector in stock.

9) My “while you are there” list got quite long. Basically I decided I did not want to go back for anything behind the engine block. So I replaced the clutch (added steel fork arm pin, reused flywheel), tranny and engine mounts, rear main seal, guibo, center support bearing, replaced leaking diff seals, constant pressure valve, all new fluids. Then found out I had a small RACP crack, so I dropped the rear suspension and gas tank and added the Redish Motorsports reinforcement plates. Then decided to do a complete suspension overall, and replaced all bushings/ ball joints/mounts front and back (45 in total) !





10) A Harbor Freight transmission jack was invaluable, I used it to drop the exhaust (position under muffler), transmission, entire rear suspension, and gas tank. I was able to do everything solo, with the exception of someone to help position the Torx socket for the top two trans bolts.

11) Gromm Racing in San Jose, CA did the bellhousing machining , Motorspeed West, Santa Clara CA pressed the bushings for me and did complete recode of the car as a manual and Fusion Welding, San Jose, CA did the mobile welding of the RACP. All recommended!

Everything working smoothly and drives like a new car with the complete suspension rebuild. The manual transmission sure is sweet! Not missing SMG one bit!

Last edited by robnik33; Wed, Nov-23-2016 at 06:16:27 AM.
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Old Wed, Nov-23-2016, 06:22:19 AM   #488
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Default Re: Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

Here are photos of the shift bracket install





Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
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Old Wed, Nov-23-2016, 09:41:07 AM   #489
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Default Re: Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

I'm about to start this (or at least a mechanic is haha) but I'm going to do the coding part.

I think I have the jist of it.
Like Ronik33 my Indie wants to add the Gear Sensor..

So initially, Can I read and save all the module files and make my alterations then save them until I'm ready to reflash at a later date?

Also, from reading this thread.. I can strip all the SMG parts out but best to leave the SMG ECU in place until after all the coding is done yeah?

Cheers
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Old Wed, Nov-30-2016, 10:16:41 PM   #490
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Default Re: Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by robnik33 View Post
I just completed an SMG to manual swap on my 11.2003 E46 M3 convertible with 93k miles. I got tired of the danger of the car slipping into neutral in traffic when it was hot, but also wanted to try the car with a manual transmission. I did the resistor hack which worked for two years, but when problems resurfaced decided on the swap.

Here are some tips I picked up along the way:

1) This DIY (MP675) along with Rontgen’s SMG-to-6MT Bellhousing Modifications post were invaluable. Many thanks to the original and other posters!

2) Getting to and breaking loose the trans to engine bolts was difficult. When reinstalling I added Grade 8 washers as recommended in the Bentley manual to make it easier to remove in the future (which I hope to never do!).

3) Manual bellhousings are in short supply (and pricey) given the popularity of conversions. Reuse your SMG bellhousing and use a mod service or get it done by a local machine shop. My shop chose to use hydraulic plugs instead of snap rings as they felt it easier than machining for the snap rings. I documented this in Rontgen’s post. Also, I used the 520G spring (BMW p/n 23311228487) which is supposedly stiffer and the BMW Performance short shifter (BMW p/n 25117527259) and ZHP shift knob. I think it is perfect, I hate wet noodle shifters!



4) I recommend installing the manual gear position sensor (GPS), you only need to tap with 14mm x 1.5 tap. This is very easy, just take your time, use a lot of grease to catch the chips, and clean and regrease the tap every several turns. A number of folks have skipped the GPS, it can be programmed around, but I have seen several cases of programming issues without it.

5) When installing the shift bracket in the tunnel, it is a lot easier not to remove the block off plate. I drilled a 3 1/4 hole with a bimetal hole saw instead. Best to drill from the top as you can center the drill on the hole outline and make sure all wires are out of the way as the drill may kick and damage them. The insulating material in the tunnel is very difficult to remove, I used a wire wheel and only took it away where the bracket sits. There were 3 welds that I ground flush so the bracket would sit flat. That is a lot less than you see in the DIY. The bracket will sit slightly lower (the thickness of the block off plate, so I put a washer under the back to level it out. This dimension is not that critical, it might change the angle of the shifter an insignificant amount. Way less work than in the DIY, and less bare metal exposed. I used rivets in 5 locations, including the arms so they don't cause a rattle.

6) The electrical description was confusing, but correct. The GPS is wired in series with the clutch switch by reusing the SMG harness temp sensor wires and connector (this is the black connector that you cut the tab off of). That makes two electrical connections to the transmission a) the existing connector to the white backup switch, which you plug back in and b) the recycled SMG temp sensor connector (which you cut the tab off so it will plug in to the GPS).

7) Make sure to disassemble the connectors before pushing the MQS connectors into place. I did not do this for initially for the EWS connection as it was so hard to get to, the car would not start until I figured out that the pin was not making contact. Also the clutch switch needs to be clipped into the holder on the clutch pedal to work.

8) One item not covered clearly in the original DIY is the additional wire that is needed if your car was produced after 5.2003 to get reverse mirror tilt / PDC to work. There are other posts that cover this topic. Basically you connect Pin 7 (0.75 MQS) that plugs into the X11176 (white) connector behind the instrument cluster to the X428 (blue/yellow) bundle above the fuse box. I just soldered a wire to the open tab on X428 as my local dealer did not have the spade connector in stock.

9) My “while you are there” list got quite long. Basically I decided I did not want to go back for anything behind the engine block. So I replaced the clutch (added steel fork arm pin, reused flywheel), tranny and engine mounts, rear main seal, guibo, center support bearing, replaced leaking diff seals, constant pressure valve, all new fluids. Then found out I had a small RACP crack, so I dropped the rear suspension and gas tank and added the Redish Motorsports reinforcement plates. Then decided to do a complete suspension overall, and replaced all bushings/ ball joints/mounts front and back (45 in total) !





10) A Harbor Freight transmission jack was invaluable, I used it to drop the exhaust (position under muffler), transmission, entire rear suspension, and gas tank. I was able to do everything solo, with the exception of someone to help position the Torx socket for the top two trans bolts.

11) Gromm Racing in San Jose, CA did the bellhousing machining , Motorspeed West, Santa Clara CA pressed the bushings for me and did complete recode of the car as a manual and Fusion Welding, San Jose, CA did the mobile welding of the RACP. All recommended!

Everything working smoothly and drives like a new car with the complete suspension rebuild. The manual transmission sure is sweet! Not missing SMG one bit!
man good to hear, I'm actually doing this swap as we speak. I just got the gps sensor tapped in this morning. I'm still honestly a bit concerned, when it comes to the wiring part of this swap.

I am replacing the crankcase seal gasket and actually just did the cpv. New clutch is on its way. I will definitely try to bug you a bit more when it comes to the wiring part of it. How's the car?
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Discussing Comprehensive SMG to 6MT Conversion Thread in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)