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Old Mon, Jun-18-2012, 12:29:00 PM   #13
SYT_Shadow
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Default Re: DIY: Vanos hub + bolts

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Originally Posted by dafoe View Post
Great job! THANK YOU!!!
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Originally Posted by rwfisher View Post
You, sir, are a DIY god. Many, many thanks!!!!
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Originally Posted by toy4to View Post
Wow, thank you for taking the time to take pictures and to document. Your effort is appreciated. I'll be using this when I do my valve adjustment.
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Originally Posted by M3&CLK55 View Post
wow, great job man
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Originally Posted by see.m3.go View Post
Wow! Great DIY guide!!
You're welcome guys. It's nice to give something back to the forum.

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Originally Posted by kuksul08 View Post
Excellent DIY. Too bad about stripping the valve cover...
Your engine looks completely funky inside though, like dark purple. Any idea why it's like that?
It wasn't that badly stripped and I'm sure I could have used a helicoil to repair it, but part of me wanted a new clean valve cover.

The engine has 100k on it. For the first 84k (before I bought it) oil changes were done every 15k, so it's quite normal for it to look dark, like varnish. Since I've had it it's gotten an oil change every 5-8k with TWS.
The people with 100k and lighter engine colors have been changing every 5k from the beginning.

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Originally Posted by m3freak86 View Post
Wow crazy write up! Thanks for taking the time to do this. Hoping the new hub will be the end all to end all of the hub tabs breaking. Nice work!
You and me both. I'll be checking it again in 6k when I do the next oil change.

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Originally Posted by ///MATTY C View Post
Great job with the diy. The only difference is the step with tightening to the hub bolts as opposed to the one in tis. If I recall correctly, TIS says to tighten 2 bolts on each hub that are 180 degrees from one another to 10nm and then releasing them 90 degrees. Then the reassembly of the vanos and tightening the 3 bolts that are accessible on each hub and rotating the engine to get to the others, 14nm for this process. For others who have done either, does it matter which way is done?
Yes, this is different to the TIS. I was aware of the TIS procedure, but I find this way to be easier and accomplish the same purpose.
The idea is to make sure the middle disc that you're screwing into is parallel to the two toothed discs and avoid you tightening it crookedly. You can accomplish this by putting two on on opposite sides and then loosening them or by doing what I did.
I also found there's no need to turn the engine. I leave the top end locked the entire time and tighten the bolts right where they are.
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