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Old Tue, Feb-23-2010, 10:27:07 PM   #8
I give too much information
Join Date: Apr 2005
Age: 36
Posts: 763
Reputation: 0 euro4life has disabled reputation
Location: SLC, UT

United States


Disclaimer: I've done a lot of single VANOS heads and ZERO dual VANOS heads. Some things probably differ slightly.

You can get away with NOT using the cam press tool that presses down on the cams while you remove the upper bearings but you risk breaking a cam if you don't unload them evenly. That's the most expensive tool of the bunch.

Make sure you get the cam blocks that slide over the back ends of the camshafts. This holds them in place while you install the VANOS. IIRC, this is also what caused a lot of headaches from some bad batches of Schrick cams because the timing was off. "VANOS mechanically jammed" errors.

The TDC pin is probably inexpensive. Pull out the plastic cover and slide it in the hole on the side of the block. (Is it still in the same location as the S52?)

One thing the m52 based motors need is a small torque wrench (I used one with a cable attachment to get the angle right) to get the chain tensioner simulator to the correct pressure. I didn't see either of those on the list.

The VANOS sprocket wrench is good. I've seen people try to rotate the gears with a screwdriver and break teeth off. (not good)

I'm guessing the "special torque angle tightener" is for measuring the angle while torquing the head bolts. The new Snap-On digital torque/angle wrenches will save your back a lot of pain. Invest. Maybe my back was just weaksauce but after spending hours bent over the engine bays going through the circular torque pattern for two heads in one day, my back went into spaz-mode and left me unable to move for ~2 days.

I used a homemade version of the airchuck adaptor. Depending on how much that tool is, I'd consider running to Home Depot and getting a short piece of hose, on/off valve, airchuck end, and the piece to attach it to the VANOS. For some reason I can't recall where it attaches? To actuate the VANOS, I think you just need to give the switch 12V. Hint: put a towel over the motor while actuating it. It prevents oil spray from blowing all over your windshield and under the hood.

Anyway, hopefully somebody here has actual S54 DV experience and can call me out on anything that's different.

IMO, most of it is pretty straightforward, it's just making sure you get the VANOS reinstalled and timed properly and making sure not to misplace anything.
- J O S H (uberfoto)

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