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Old Sun, Jul-25-2010, 03:43:16 AM   #3
TRACK-CZAR
TRACK-CZAR
 
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24. Finally, need to get to the block drain bolt. Under the car, look up at the passenger side of the block. You will see a cannister (some say it is for the VANOS). Remove the (EDIT) 10mm bolt and spacer.




25. Spread open the hinged tabs and push the canister up and to the right. You can now easily see the block drain bolt.




26. Using a series of extensions and a universal joint on a 3/8 ratchet, I was able to break this 13mm bolt loose. Like others have said...this can be messy. I had a large rag between me and block. Once loose, the bolt fell into the pan. Mostly, my arm was drenched. The pan caught another 1/2 gallon. I have read to replace the aluminum bushing on the bolt, but I just flipped it over and reused it.


27.From here it was easy....replace the block drain bolt and the VANOS cannister.

28. Replace the temp sending unit and the electrical connector

29. Mix up a gallon of BMW coolant (blue) with a gallon of distilled water ($.85 at the local grocery store)


30. Find a funnel (I cut the distilled water jug and used it and a buddy to hold it) and pour the 50/50 mix into the reservoir. Mine took the whole 2 gallons.

31. Turn the car on and the heater on full blast.

32. Reinstall the bleed valve, but leave it barely cracked open.

33. My coolant tank was low and the yellow coolant warning light was on, so I had to add another 1/2 gallon of water to the system.

34. Run the car for a while and watch the temp guage....any sign of high temps....shut her down!

35. I opened and closed the bleed valve a few times. Ultimately, I stopped seeing fluid come out.

36. Reinstall the fan shroud and the 2 air duct pieces.

37. Reinstall the undertray (I left mine off for a couple of days to watch for leaks)

38. With all of the fluid spray that occured....I gave the engine bay a quick hose down.
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Last edited by TRACK-CZAR; Wed, Jul-28-2010 at 04:41:00 AM.
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