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-   -   brembo bbk install (http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=149386)

bmwJohhnyD Tue, Feb-27-2007 06:59:04 AM

brembo bbk install
 
some interesting things on my 4 corner brembo bbk install today.

1. i did not need to trim the outer portion of the rear brake shield. some diy's from www.my330i.com and also the install pdf's and even the supplemental sheet from the brembo kit for the e46 m3 stated you had to trim about 1 inch from the rear dust shield all the way around the circumference, and then cut some more of it away to fit the caliper and the bracket. also it was stated that it was difficult to cut away the rear dust shield because it was thick. a good friend of mine did most of the work. all we had to do was cut about 1.5 inch triangle from where you mount the caliper, essentially to widen that space. and we cut them with regular tin snips. the rest was just simply bent out of the way and with this we had about an 1/8 to a quarter of an inch clearance all the way around the rotor and the caliper and the bracket...:nixweiss: i will let you know if sparks start coming from the car or it catches on fire.. so far on the drive home.. zero rubbing etc...

2. we did not cut the front triangle near the tie rod end from the front brake shield either.. we simply bent this out of the way and gained plenty of clearance... we even put the wheel bolts back in along with washers ( to substitute for the wheels) in order to ensure the rotors were completely mounted on the hub... so nothing was cut from the front rotor shield.. it was just slightly bent out of the way

3. regarding the rear stainless steel brake lines. the middle anchor point stock clip that holds the line away from the moving parts had to be 'tweaked' a bit to get that to fit tightly. we think it was due to the diameter of the goodridge anchor point included with the brakes being a bit smaller than stock

4. with regards to the rotor screws that mount the rotors to the hub.. for some reason we could use two screws [just like stock] on 3 of the 4 rotors. however, on the driver side we could only get one of the screws to actually hold the rotor because the 2nd hole was just a little two big [as a matter of fact the 2nd pre-drilled hole looked to be just like the pre-drilled holes for the rear rotor hats ] again i read in a couple of the diy's that you would only get to use one screw on each rotor. we think that if you had a rear rotor screw for that front hole that was too big that it would fit fine... we made sure that the rotors were lined up also. there is a distinct difference in the holes for the screws versus the holes for the dowels in the hub [screw holes are indented so screws sit flush]

5. we used an eye-ometer to measure the run-out on the rotors [since my dads meter did not work with teh magnetic base he bought] and decided it was well within the limits .. just make sure the rotors are mounted with a couple of lug bolts on them though.. or else they will look crazy out of round..:thumbsup:

ShakeNbake Tue, Feb-27-2007 02:15:09 PM

If you plan to track the car, remove the front backing plates. With the stock plates in place, there is not much airflow to center of the hub on the center back side, where the rotors **** in their air.

W/r to the bolt holes holding on the rotors. There is a reason only one is used and that it does not seem like it holds the rotor on securely. My guess is that it has to do with allowing the hub to expand/contract a little.

bmwJohhnyD Tue, Feb-27-2007 08:42:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacy (Post 2048880)
If you plan to track the car, remove the front backing plates. With the stock plates in place, there is not much airflow to center of the hub on the center back side, where the rotors **** in their air.

W/r to the bolt holes holding on the rotors. There is a reason only one is used and that it does not seem like it holds the rotor on securely. My guess is that it has to do with allowing the hub to expand/contract a little.

thanks for the response.. in the brembo supplied directions.. ( i know they are generic) but they state to refasten the rotor with whatever was used on the stock setup ...if the directions would have specifically said to only put it back with one to allow this expansion/contraction i would have certainly did it.. but who knows..

it just seems everytime i do a mod it is a little different than what the other people have experienced .. which concerns me at times.. :drive2:

exotic///M Tue, Feb-27-2007 09:34:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmwbob (Post 2048520)
some interesting things on my 4 corner brembo bbk install today.

1. i did not need to trim the outer portion of the rear brake shield. some diy's from www.my330i.com and also the install pdf's and even the supplemental sheet from the brembo kit for the e46 m3 stated you had to trim about 1 inch from the rear dust shield all the way around the circumference, and then cut some more of it away to fit the caliper and the bracket. also it was stated that it was difficult to cut away the rear dust shield because it was thick. a good friend of mine did most of the work. all we had to do was cut about 1.5 inche triangle from where you mount the caliper, essentially to widen that space. and we cut them with regular tin snips. the rest was just simply bent out of the way and with this we had about an 1/8 to a quarter of an inch clearance all the way around the rotor and the caliper and the bracket...:nixweiss: i will let you know if sparks start coming from the car or it catches on fire.. so far on the drive home.. zero rubbing etc...

2. we did not cut the front triangle near the tie rod end from the front brake shield either.. we simply bent this out of the way and gained plenty of clearance... we even put the wheel bolts back in along with washers ( to substitute for the wheels) in order to ensure the rotors were completely mounted on the hub... so nothing was cut from the front rotor shield.. it was just slightly bent out of the way

3. regarding the rear stainless steel brake lines. the middle anchor point that holds the line away from the moving parts had to be 'tweaked' a bit to get that to fit tightly. we think it was due to the diameter of the anchor point being a bit smaller than stock

4. with regards to the rotor screws that mount the rotors to the hub.. for some reason we could use two screws [just like stock] on 3 of the 4 rotors. however, on the driver side we could only get one of the screws to actually hold the rotor because the 2nd hole was just a little two big [as a matter of fact the 2nd pre-drilled hole looked to be just like the pre-drilled holes for the rear rotor hats ] again i read in a couple of the diy's that you would only get to use one screw on each rotor. we think that if you had a rear rotor screw for that front hole that was too big that it would fit fine... we made sure that the rotors were lined up also. there is a distinct difference in the holes for the screws versus the holes for the dowels in the hub [screw holes are indented so screws sit flush]

5. we used an eye-ometer to measure the run-out on the rotors [since my dads meter did not work with teh magnetic base he bought] and decided it was well within the limits .. just make sure the rotors are mounted with a couple of lug bolts on them though.. or else they will look crazy out of round..:thumbsup:

bmwbob,

Thanks for the write up. Your review and information is definitely appreciated.

I too have done this install with very similar results to what you have noted. I did later remove the front dust shield to help promote fresh airflow to the inner disc plate and I did trim the rear shield as close to the e-brake as possible. I used a brilliant tool called "The Nibbler" that I picked up at SEMA a few years ago. Trimming both rear dust shields took less than 5 minutes.

As for the eye-ometer to measure run-out, and even using a true run-out meter, neither method is correct when dealing with a floating disc. With the amount of float provided by the 2pc. discs, at low RPM's, there will always be a minimal amount of visible run-out. At road speeds, and higher RPM's, the discs actually finds it's true centerline with zero run-out. That's one of the major benefits of a Brembo system.
- True floating hardware that actually works.

I hope you enjoy the system, and I'm sure many people here would appreciate your feedback after driving the kit for a while.

bmwJohhnyD Tue, Feb-27-2007 10:05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by exotic///M (Post 2049793)
bmwbob,

Thanks for the write up. Your review and information is definitely appreciated.

I too have done this install with very similar results to what you have noted. I did later remove the front dust shield to help promote fresh airflow to the inner disc plate and I did trim the rear shield as close to the e-brake as possible. I used a brilliant tool called "The Nibbler" that I picked up at SEMA a few years ago. Trimming both rear dust shields took less than 5 minutes.

As for the eye-ometer to measure run-out, and even using a true run-out meter, neither method is correct when dealing with a floating disc. With the amount of float provided by the 2pc. discs, at low RPM's, there will always be a minimal amount of visible run-out. At road speeds, and higher RPM's, the discs actually finds it's true centerline with zero run-out. That's one of the major benefits of a Brembo system.
- True floating hardware that actually works.

I hope you enjoy the system, and I'm sure many people here would appreciate your feedback after driving the kit for a while.

thanks for the kind words... i will post a follow up review... and i am glad i wasnt the only one that found the above things to be true...:beer:

Synthetic Tue, Feb-27-2007 11:26:50 PM

The 6-piston Monoblock and 380mm rotors for the front set I had used both rotor screws to hold the rotor in place. Maybe it is the specific rotor was over drilled at the factory?

bmwJohhnyD Sun, Mar-04-2007 02:21:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synthetic (Post 2050107)
The 6-piston Monoblock and 380mm rotors for the front set I had used both rotor screws to hold the rotor in place. Maybe it is the specific rotor was over drilled at the factory?

very interesting...


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