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-   -   Right oil for built Engine? (http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=599932)

maestro416 Sun, Jul-08-2018 07:36:22 AM

Right oil for built Engine?
 
I'm looking into using the right oil for a fully built s54 with 12.5:1 CR, 288/280, etc.

The car does see track time of course, but not always (I like to go out to local meets and weekend drives and such as well). Currently using 10w60 LM, but I'm finding it burns a lot (probably something like 200ml every 200-300km depending on how hard it's being driven (before the build I didn't burn any, even at track days). I don't think there are any problems engine wise, however, as my builder has verified it and I had made 360 rwhp on the dyno with the same oil a few days ago.

My only hesitation with going full race oil is that being in Canada, temps can often suddenly drop pretty low. This month for example we've been above 30 degrees C on average, but today went down to as low as 15 degrees. As we go into the fall, it goes as low as 0 or even -1. I'm concerned about being able to start the car with race oil in the lower temps. From what I understand I wouldn't be burning oil if I went this route and of course it would better protect the engine when being put under heavy load.

I was wondering though, if there would be an alternative "performance" oil that would resolve the oil burning problem. Or do I just have to figure out how to heat the oil during the cold? I also think there are likely better alternatives to LiquiMoly in the 10w60 weight, but thought I'd ask for some opinions

ClevoCapri Sun, Jul-08-2018 08:22:02 AM

Re: Right oil for built Engine?
 
What does your engine builder recommend?

HassanEido Sun, Jul-08-2018 11:09:22 AM

Re: Right oil for built Engine?
 
If it burns oil, its not the oil grade. It's ur rings. LM is not a good choice either way. Use castrol edge titanium fst 10w60 or shell helix racing 10w60.

mpwr92 Sun, Jul-08-2018 11:46:54 AM

Re: Right oil for built Engine?
 
How many kms on the engine before rebuild and did you stay stock bore size ? Also did you run a running in oil for the first 1000km?

Obioban Sun, Jul-08-2018 12:06:02 PM

Re: Right oil for built Engine?
 
Race oil is not a good choice if you’re
A) Steet driving
B) not doing an oil change after every event

Oil consumption is the engine, not the oil.

///M3 MD Sun, Jul-08-2018 12:17:34 PM

Right oil for built Engine?
 
I agree with everyone above, if you’re burning oil your rings are the problem. Share more details about the history of the motor and rebuild specs

Here’s some info on suggested break in procedure:
Rebuilt Engine Break-In period
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...1&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FK Sun, Jul-08-2018 02:15:47 PM

Re: Right oil for built Engine?
 
Motul 10W60 or Agip 10W60

bigjae1976 Sun, Jul-08-2018 02:55:08 PM

Re: Right oil for built Engine?
 
Does it burn less oil on track? If so, I think that would indicate that the builder correctly accounted for additional thermal expansion for track use.

Cronenberged Sun, Jul-08-2018 04:21:46 PM

Re: Right oil for built Engine?
 
Amsoil 15W-50 is the same consistency as shells 10W-60 racing oil. It would need to be changed after every track even though, and they have a 0W-60 as well. On the street I would use their 5W-50. Some people are running 5w-40 but also changing their oil after every track event.

maestro416 Mon, Jul-09-2018 08:16:32 PM

Re: Right oil for built Engine?
 
Some details about the build:

Stock engine was a low mileage (45,000 km) engine and completely rebuilt as follows:

Engine completely disassembled, cleaned, painted and stressed parts magna fluxed, and reassembled with the new high quality performance parts:
- Schrick cams-288 intake/280exhaust high lift and duration
cams with dual vanos retained
- Schrick DLC coated finger followers (rockers)
- Upgraded to JE pistons – 12.5-1 compression versus stock
11.5-1
- Schrick DLC coated rod and crank bearings with ARP bolts
- Dual vanos rebuilt with new gear, seals and O-rings
- All engine slide guides, tensioner and twin timing chain
replaced
- Head completely rebuilt, 3 angle valve grind, new guides and
seals, new valve springs
- ARP head studs were installed versus the stock single use
head bolts.
- All new sensors (cam, crank, throttle position sensor, oil
pressure and Turner in -pan oil temp sensor
- Bimmerworld oil filter housing upgrade to increase flow to
100% to oil cooler
- Oil pump upgrade to eliminate pump failure
- New coil packs

Engine has some kms put on it since build (over 5k km). The rate of oil burned is not a fixed rate. Around the city with a few rips here and there i need 0.5L every 1000-1200 kms, sometimes more sometimes less - it's really just based on how frequent and hard the rips are. That brings me to my next point. Aggressive runs (canyons, track) consume/burn far more oil. I did very remote backroads yesterday to get some data and basically at what would be 70% track-level intensity for an experienced driver (frequently/often in the power band), I had put 2L over about 250-300km of aggressive driving; 600km total including slow zones such as neighbourhoods and highway mileage as well.

That number, however, is less than half of what it was before and a few things changed since then.
1. Tune is no longer running crazy rich
2. Evolve airbox may have been pulling oil out of the ccv, plugged and catch can installed. Catch can has a bit of oil in it - but not much, probably under 100ml.

So the engine builder has said that because the tune was really rich it was affecting the cylinder walls, etc etc which I do understand but I still don't think it's supposed to result in this much oil being burned. Interestingly though the catch can and oil cap both smell like fuel, so there may be some merit here.

I will do an oil change now that the tune has been sorted out to see if it makes a difference or not. I just don't think I've ever come across an issue like oil burning being tune related (as a result of running rich).

I took it to another shop for a second opinion, but that guy didn't even know the difference between static and dynamic compression so I didn't have enough confidence in him to actually let him take a look.

Lastly, if rings were were an issue would engine still be making power on the dyno?


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