I am trying to figure out what tools I will need for a DIY alignment. I would like to be able to easily adjust camber and toe, front and rear. For some reason, I am really not as interested in caster.

In doing a little research, I see a couple of options for camber/caster:

- Intercomp Digital Castor/Camber Gauge ($299 at bimmerworld)
- SmartCamber Gauge ($235 at bimmerworld)
- Smart Strings (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/smart1.htm) Four Wheel Alignment Tool from racerpartswholesale ($379, see link)
- Any other good options I missed?

Toe:
- ART Laser Toe Gauge (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/art2.htm) (seems a little expensive for my budget, probably cheaper to have it done somewhere)
- Plumb bob, string, and ruler technique. Pretty cheap. Dan Law has a write-up on this... I would pay extra for something easier. :)
- Longacre Toe Plates ($56 from bimmerworld). Looks easy, fairly cheap.
- Longacre Toe in gauge (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/long18.htm) $97.
- Any other good options I missed?

I would prefer tools that can be used anywhere (i.e. not always a perfectly level surface, some of these gauges claim to be auto compensating), easy to use, and somewhat accurate. My goal is to set my own alignment before and after track events, so I can save tirewear on the street. I don't race, just DE's. I like my current alignment but its just too aggressive for the street. Someday I'll also get a probe-type tire pyrometer for additional tuning.

I guess its about time I read the book "How to make your car Handle" by Fred Puhn.

Any input is much appreciated. If any of you guys have experience with the above mentioned tools, or have additional suggestions, many thanks in advance!

From my perspective, if it matters, would suggest the following:

If you just want adjustablity BUT aren't REALLY interested in learning Alignment:

* Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms ala GC, TCK &c Generally, 1 Turn = 0,7 degrees change
By tracking the number of turns from your original setup you'll know approx what Rr camber is running and how to get back to street camber.

* MULTIPLE Coloured Paint PenS
Make markings for the optimum camber at each track if one is too lazy to log it.

* Quality Tyre Pyrometre
Allows one to determine the optimum camber and toe for a given track when combined with lap times and driver input as to prefernce.

* 23mm and 13mm Open End Wrenches
Used to adjust front toe out. Simply track the turns on each side during adjustment and return to the base (original) settings to drive home.

* Log Book
Used to track findings at a given track so one can return to the optimum settings.

My point is that the SUPER Accurate tools are NOT necessary UNLESS you are setting autos for general usage, establishing baselines or returning a damaged auto to original. If your baselines are good, why bother with all the tools UNLESS you want to learn - which is cool - but DOESN'T apply to most folk. The above list toals about $400 Retail ($300 is Rr LCAs).

Now if you want to learn:

* Smart Strings @$380
* TurnPlates (TurnTables) @$550/pair 2 Prs needed to do things right
* InterComp Digital C/C Gauge @$400
* Digital Calipres - I use FACom but Mitutoyo is ostensibly the best $400+(++)
* Quality Pyrometre - NOTICE it's required in BOTH @$100+(++)
* And an assumption that your ride heights and cornerweights are good

My point is given your statements about ease, you only need a convenient and REPEATABLE means of adjusting settings (hence the RLCAs), an accurate way of determining it's validity (Pyrometre) and a means to know what adjustments you've effected and how to return to the baseline (LogBook).

I can supply this stuff for you, call me.

Dan Law
DERMotorSports@gmail.com

Thanks a lot Dan!

BTW, what good books do you recommend for learning how to do all this stuff?

Pyrometer is definately on my short list. Do you recommend the 12-reading $300+ unit, or will the $100 probe type be fine? I guess with a pen and paper I can make up for the $200 difference.

I should probably just bring the car to PTC and let you do it. :-) Just seems like a long drive sometimes, and I need to know this stuff for when I move back to IL in the next few months. You busy this coming weekend? I can bring the beer :beer:

Collin

We can do you, call me.

You want to go with the RLCAs? - if so, need to get those from GC.

Pyrometre of choice to me is the Adkins, old tech but THE standard. Otherwise LongAcre has a low end one.

770.631.6779

Is that Cooper-Atkins pyrometer?

Now, the stock rear cambers arms are ok (from what I understand) but just more difficult to adjust, right? How much? Are they tough to install?

I think I might pass on the rear camber arm's.

What I am trying to do is easily switch between street and track mode for my alignment. Rear seems pretty good as it is, kinda set it and forget it... its the front tires that are really wearing down on the inside.

I have since "flipped" the tires, but its only been 8k miles and almost to the cords. Pretty fast to chew up some street tires. If I could just do a quick and dirty front camber/toe change, I would be fine.

Maybe we can just make markings for different settings? I can bring multiple magic marker colors, one for street, the other for track. I'll give you a call. Thanks!

I just use a set of toe plates and a camber gauge to check the alingment. Every once in a while I'll get a 4wheel on a machine. Although after you do you own alignements and have even some of the basic tools Dan was talking about, you'll be surprised how well you can align the car, you'll get almost dead nuts on, the same as one of the exotic new alignment machines.

I just use a set of toe plates and a camber gauge to check the alingment. Every once in a while I'll get a 4wheel on a machine. Although after you do you own alignements and have even some of the basic tools Dan was talking about, you'll be surprised how well you can align the car, you'll get almost dead nuts on, the same as one of the exotic new alignment machines.
Bump for old thread but only one in search...

As I sit here in Tire Kingdom hoping they get to me before they close for the second time in two days wasting my time waiting to get my alignment done (despite having an appointment both times) I can't help but want to never deal with any incompetent dipsh!ts again.

I took out my subframe to preemptively install a reinforcement kit over the weekend and while I was doing it changed all the bushings (subframe, RTABS, RCABS, etc) so I want to make sure it is good on a proper 4W alignment rack... But I can't help but think even basic toe plates and plumb
line method by a contentious owner is potentially better than by a guy that doesn't care and has to plug the car type into the computer to follow a script.

Does anyone here do their own alignment with basic DIY'r tools for more than adjustments to camber?

i'm debated on buying long acre toe plates and and camber gauge as well and doing my own...i'm just weary of how accurate i'd really be

i'm debated on buying long acre toe plates and and camber gauge as well and doing my own...i'm just weary of how accurate i'd really be

Well I would much rather invest time and money in learning to do it myself but I have the same accuracy concerns. In between postings they got my car on and consulted me about where it is now... Camber is easy and is where I thought it was by eye and is fine... But the toe is out slightly, expressed to .xx degrees!(?) I am skeptical could have repeatable accuracy to .01 degree but honestly I doubt they are either. Even if the concept of significant digits is not an issue (I got 23.3467495 mpg last tank so clearly my method is precise! Lol), I would not trust the process overall (mounting error, measurement error, calibration, etc).

I guess the realization of seeing how these "experts" have such fervent faith in something they know nothing about "it's a computer so it must be accurate..." has me thinking fundamentals don't change and cars were aligned before. Guys made rockets with manual machine tools and vernier calipers 70 years ago, and they could produce far better parts than your average unskilled button pusher on a cnc machine with cmm's can do.

So can I build rockets in my garage with $400 in alignment tools?:lolhit:

Really I prefer to be self reliant and if $400 in alignment aids only gets me close for minor alignments, so be it... But fly'inD's post made me think perhaps I never need to do this again... Really just want some realistic feedback if you gotta suck it up or if with a machinists care you can get alignment dead nuts in your garage.

DIY is simple, doesn't require fancy tools and is very, very accurate. You have already been given the good advice of starting with a known set-up and then mark everything so you can easily return to your base-line.
I have a garage full of alignment tools for our two track cars and I keep returning to the simplest, quickest, cheapest and accurate;
-Longacre toe plates are great, and quick.
-For camber I use a 6", $40 digital level from Craftsman and a plastic 10" kitchen cutting board on which I have epoxied two large steel washers. The level has a magnetic base and can read angles in degrees. I attach the level to the cutting board and my wheels all allow the cutting board to rest flush with the wheel center, I simply push a button and read out the value. With the new iPhone app all you need is the cutting board (skip the glued on washers) as a flat surface and the phone to measure the angle. While my garage floor is dead flat and level, I always place the cars tires inside rectangles I have previously marked the on the floor with a permanent marker. If the floor is flat but not level, measure the floor under the tires and adjust your readings. If the floor is not flat you may want to borrow or buy a 6'-8' level and make a shim (floor tile, small piece of plywood etc) to raise the floor/tire under the low spot across both front and rear.
As has already been said, be careful, meticulous and also follow the same procedure, very time, with any of the tools you choose to use.

Also, next time you go to the alignment shop take a real close look at their equipment and its wear, tear and maintenance. I think you will probably convince yourself you can be just as accurate at home.

We include a cheap universal diy with all our suspension kits. Requires 4 jackstands or similarly heavy unlikely to move on their own items, fishing line, some washers and of course the tools to actually change the car's settings such as spanners of various sizes.

Have to ask why in God's name did you go through all the bother to reinforce the "subframe" (boot floor really) and then not replace the bushing with PowerFlex SubFrame and RTAB units? The PF Subframe bushes be they street or track would really have tightened things up and using street version, even helped make the car more civil regarding noise, harshness and vibration. The RTABs are just a no brainer and would have made your alignment pretty much permanent as well as really tightening the vehicle up in turns and under acceleration without any penalty in NVH as well....

I had an alignment shop give me two alignments, one for street and one for track. I marked them both on the camber plates with paint pens. I know it's not perfect but without buying the equipment to DIY or paying the shop to do it each time it seems to be working well.

OK, I'll bite - why did you have the shop give you 2 alignments? and what did they change besides camber? Reason I am asking is because if you want to do the brainless way, simply slam the plates to full camber upon arrival at track and if you want to do the right way, get a pyrometre and quality pressure gauge. Of course there are some intermediary techniques but really either do it right or not at all. We can sell you a decent pyrometre for less than 150 and a pressure guage for well under 50. Also feel need to ask why you went solid bushings all around then paired with PSS9??

I find the problem with toe plates is that they measure toe relative to the other wheel. Issue being if one side is out then both are. That's why I prefer squaring the car and measuring toe from the strings. Truth be told my experience has been the only times knowing camber angle matter is for set-up logs/initial set-up at track (not necessary at all for track days) and for street driving. Getting one pro alignment is a pretty good idea for a person new to home alignment to establish and mark the street camber setting as well as assure their stringing method is accurate by checking and comparing to a known base (assuming the shop can actually use the expensive equipment and set as they were instructed).

Have to ask why in God's name did you go through all the bother to reinforce the "subframe" (boot floor really) and then not replace the bushing with PowerFlex SubFrame and RTAB units? The PF Subframe bushes be they street or track would really have tightened things up and using street version, even helped make the car more civil regarding noise, harshness and vibration. The RTABs are just a no brainer and would have made your alignment pretty much permanent as well as really tightening the vehicle up in turns and under acceleration without any penalty in NVH as well....

I am in total agreement. My response above was not clear; I typed on my iPhone while sitting in the lobby frustrated at having to rely on monkeys that were wasting my time and incapable of doing the basic service I was having my time wasted for.

I only reinforced the subframe BECAUSE I had it out to replace all the bushings with Powerflex. I did change the FCAB, RTAB, and Subframe all to Powerflex. :thumbsup2:

The Subframe reinforcement was probably totally unnecessary as mine was completely fine having had an easy life approaching 60k miles, but I did it for peace of mind while I had the hard work already done (pulling the subframe is far more work than installing the plates). And honestly I couldn't tell there was no damage at all until the entire rear end was out of my car on jackstands with the underbody totally clean. I have no idea how you can really inspect the mount points well with the subframe still on.

Also, I didn't actually change the RLCA bushings, I installed GC adjustable control arms, which despite their simplicity and my explanation of how to adjust them, the tech totally botched the camber (I had to reset in my garage when I got home!). I knew I was in trouble when he came to ask if it was a M3 or M3 CSL (so he could be handheld through by the computer) after I told him all I wanted was to check the toe after I changed the RTAB's. So it further irritated me that I would pay someone who can't understand how to loosen two collars and turn a threaded rod because it didn't say so on the process he was trained to follow. I even gave him the wrench and told him how to do it twice and he just nodded... I wouldn't even care except they wouldn't let me in the shop to help. (I understand why)

At any rate, I will look into my alignment options and research this more, as I would prefer to learn how to do it, and be self sufficient. The real issue is I was dumb enough to purchase a 5 year "alignment plan" from Tire Kingdom a couple years ago and even dumber for trying to use it again. I need to write off the loss despite only ever getting now two alignments performed (neither were confidence inspiring) and go to a place that knows what they are doing, and will allow me to be there asking questions to satiate my intellectual curiosity and then purchase some basic DIY'r tools from you later for maintaining.

OK, I'll bite - why did you have the shop give you 2 alignments? and what did they change besides camber? Reason I am asking is because if you want to do the brainless way, simply slam the plates to full camber upon arrival at track and if you want to do the right way, get a pyrometre and quality pressure gauge. Of course there are some intermediary techniques but really either do it right or not at all. We can sell you a decent pyrometre for less than 150 and a pressure guage for well under 50. Also feel need to ask why you went solid bushings all around then paired with PSS9??

LOL PSS9s were the only mod on the car when I bought it. I knew the direction I wanted to go with the car and when doing the subframe reinforcement I wanted to replace all the bushings while I had the rear end out of the car. Knowing that eventually this would be a dedicated track car (which it is now) and I would be upgrading to something along the line of AST/JRZ/Motons I decided to go with all solid while it was out. I only wanted to do that whole process once. I would upgrade suspensions now but don't have the spare cash to drop.

As far as the two alignments go. I had the shop do a "street alignment" with -2.5F and -1.5R camber and 0 toe and a "track alignment" of -3.5F and -2.5R camber for the track. At the time I was still driving it on the street and didn't want any abnormal tire wear from running -3.5/-2.5 camber. Now I pretty much leave it in the "track" alignment all the time.

OK, I'll bite - why did you have the shop give you 2 alignments? and what did they change besides camber? Reason I am asking is because if you want to do the brainless way, simply slam the plates to full camber upon arrival at track and if you want to do the right way, get a pyrometre and quality pressure gauge. Of course there are some intermediary techniques but really either do it right or not at all. We can sell you a decent pyrometre for less than 150 and a pressure guage for well under 50. Also feel need to ask why you went solid bushings all around then paired with PSS9??

a lot of people get "two alignments" done at the shop that have vorshlag plates. here is the description from vorshlag themselves:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=13209779&postcount=303

a lot of people get "two alignments" done at the shop that have vorshlag plates. here is the description from vorshlag themselves:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=13209779&postcount=303

We sell alot of camberplates and suspensions and are a Vorshlag dealer so very familiar with camber changes affecting toe. It is not really 2 alignments, that is what confused me. We state it a little simpler, set toe to 0 at minimum equal camber settings left to right which is your street setting with the minimum tyre wear and mark with paint pen, when plates are pushed in to max it will result in between 3/16 and 1/4" toe out - bearing in mind that the strut towers are slightly slotted which will result in some variability if not carefully setting original street camber or even track camber (and truth be told for nearly all it is insignificant compared to variances in driving ability from ideal). From my experience with the overwhelming majority of alignment shops - all but one in my experience with many many performance oriented operations - there will be more error from careless setting of camber within the slotted towers than anything else one could be concerned with. I would also suggest that assuming any camber setting as optimal before getting to an event is wishful thinking. Either you slam it and just work around it all weekend - unfortunately what most nonracers do - or your use a contact pyrometre and pressure gauge and get it right (and it will differ left to right both front and rear). That is why we suggest just marking the max tyrewear street setting. BMW guys should thank God they are not like some other commonly tracked cars where changing camber towards negative results in toe-in!

LOL PSS9s were the only mod on the car when I bought it. I knew the direction I wanted to go with the car and when doing the subframe reinforcement I wanted to replace all the bushings while I had the rear end out of the car. Knowing that eventually this would be a dedicated track car (which it is now) and I would be upgrading to something along the line of AST/JRZ/Motons I decided to go with all solid while it was out. I only wanted to do that whole process once. I would upgrade suspensions now but don't have the spare cash to drop.

As far as the two alignments go. I had the shop do a "street alignment" with -2.5F and -1.5R camber and 0 toe and a "track alignment" of -3.5F and -2.5R camber for the track. At the time I was still driving it on the street and didn't want any abnormal tire wear from running -3.5/-2.5 camber. Now I pretty much leave it in the "track" alignment all the time.

See my response to the 2 alignment settings (above I think). Credit due you in thinking where you were going with this car before modding blindly. Keeping the Bilsteins under the circumstances you describe was well advised given your plan. We really try to get our customers to think where they are going so as not to double spend or start down blind alleys. One thing though, if you are heading towards racing, have you checked the rules in your prospective class for solid mounts?

See my response to the 2 alignment settings (above I think). Credit due you in thinking where you were going with this car before modding blindly. Keeping the Bilsteins under the circumstances you describe was well advised given your plan. We really try to get our customers to think where they are going so as not to double spend or start down blind alleys. One thing though, if you are heading towards racing, have you checked the rules in your prospective class for solid mounts?

That's good advice, I see so many people spending money to do things twice. As far as racing, I don't know if I will ever do much more than TT. In the past I've done only DE's and open track days but will be trying to do some TT this year. I would love to get into to wheel to wheel racing but right now I don't have the time or the money (getting married this year) to take it as seriouslly as I would want.

We include a cheap universal diy with all our suspension kits. Requires 4 jackstands or similarly heavy unlikely to move on their own items, fishing line, some washers and of course the tools to actually change the car's settings such as spanners of various sizes.


Is this the DIY? http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=107669

Like everyone else, I'm tired of paying for alignments and having to explain alignment to the tech.

Thanks for all the great info you provide! :rockband: