me+mym3
Thu, Jul-08-2004, 06:29:20 PM
I am about the install an Alpine 9835 headunit purchased from Cruthfield. I replaced the original BMW headunit back in '96 when I bought the car ('95 E36 M3 has the non-Harmon Kardon system). At the time, I cut the factory harness and spliced to make the connections. I will be doing the install again the same way. However, when purchasing from Crutchfield they suggested the purchase and install of a couple of things I am not sure are necessary.
1. An amplifier wiring kit that directly connects the head unit constant power to the battery. I'm not sure if this is necessary because I haven't had any problems in the past with making this connection with the factory wiring in the dash. Cost only $20 but I don't really want to run the wiring if it's not necessary. I noticed that others that have installed Alpine headunits have connected to the dash wiring without problems but the tech at Crutchfield highly suggested bringing it all the way back to the battery. From what I see, there's at least 2 fuses to protect the wiring if I connect to the dash. One is in the little gray box that Alpine provides with their wiring harness, the other is in the BMW fuse box. The Crutchfield tech makes it sound like the wire will burn up if I don't use the wiring they had me purchase from them.
2. Something called a PAC OEM-2 Universal Interface. This installs between the factory wiring and the Alpine headunit. Supposedly this delays the signal to the speakers when you turn the unit on so you don't get a spike and the resultant popping noise when you turn the unit on/off. I am currently getting that noise now. I was wondering if anyone else is getting it too. I guess I can try it both ways to see if it makes a difference. This device is also supposed to protect the factory amp by reducing the "strength" of the signal from the headunit to the amp. But, I currently have no problems with my system. In fact, I kind of like the little boost that I must be getting from the head unit. There looks to be an adjustable gain to control how much power goes from the headunit amp to the factory amp.
I have an older Alpine CD changer also that I am not sure how to connect. Do you have to order an adapter or something from Alpine?
1. An amplifier wiring kit that directly connects the head unit constant power to the battery. I'm not sure if this is necessary because I haven't had any problems in the past with making this connection with the factory wiring in the dash. Cost only $20 but I don't really want to run the wiring if it's not necessary. I noticed that others that have installed Alpine headunits have connected to the dash wiring without problems but the tech at Crutchfield highly suggested bringing it all the way back to the battery. From what I see, there's at least 2 fuses to protect the wiring if I connect to the dash. One is in the little gray box that Alpine provides with their wiring harness, the other is in the BMW fuse box. The Crutchfield tech makes it sound like the wire will burn up if I don't use the wiring they had me purchase from them.
2. Something called a PAC OEM-2 Universal Interface. This installs between the factory wiring and the Alpine headunit. Supposedly this delays the signal to the speakers when you turn the unit on so you don't get a spike and the resultant popping noise when you turn the unit on/off. I am currently getting that noise now. I was wondering if anyone else is getting it too. I guess I can try it both ways to see if it makes a difference. This device is also supposed to protect the factory amp by reducing the "strength" of the signal from the headunit to the amp. But, I currently have no problems with my system. In fact, I kind of like the little boost that I must be getting from the head unit. There looks to be an adjustable gain to control how much power goes from the headunit amp to the factory amp.
I have an older Alpine CD changer also that I am not sure how to connect. Do you have to order an adapter or something from Alpine?