Hi gang. What process do you all follow for washing your M3? I see lots of advice on waxing, and clay bar, but what about the wash process. In particular what do you use? Sheepskin mit, boar's hair brush, or other? How do you dry? Micro fiber towel, chamois? What do you recommend I use and where do I buy? Thanks!!

Rinse really well at start to remove the debris. Then soap the car down, scrub using a sheepskin mit, rinse really well again and dry with a sheepskin chamois. And keep both the mit ahd the chamois free of debris that could cause scratching when drying and washing. The key is rinse really well.

I use a wool wash mit and have a seperate sponge for wheels. P21S wheel cleaner with a wheel brush. I use Zaino car wash but the Meguir's gold class is good also. MF waffle towels for drying. MF towel and invisble glass for windows. Interior I use Blackfire interior cleaner with 303 aerospace protectant for all rubber and vinyl inside and out. Platinum leather conditioner but there are some other good ones.

Try www.pakshak.com for towels and www.autogeek.net or www.properautocare.com for other supplies. They also have good advice. Pepboys has some of the stuff you need locally.

I pretty much use Alex's techniques but I clean my wheels with soap and warm water. I also dry the car with a toro 215mph leaf blower i got at sears for 59.99. It does an AMAZING job and i never have to put a towel to the car and worry about scratching the paint.

I pretty much use Alex's techniques but I clean my wheels with soap and warm water. I also dry the car with a toro 215mph leaf blower i got at sears for 59.99. It does an AMAZING job and i never have to put a towel to the car and worry about scratching the paint.

Do you have to worry about dirt or sand getting sucked into the blower and then blasted onto your car? I have been wanting to get a leaf blower but this issue has concerned me...i know they must work really well.

<http://www.autopia.org/> is a great forum to learn about keeping your car in top notch appearance. Tons of info there.

blowing sand/little rocks has never been an issue. The vaccume pressure isnt that strong from more than a ft. away. I tried experimenting with some sand/earth on the driveway and i didnt pick up anything.

keep in mind you're also holding the thing a good 3 ft+ off of the ground. You should definitely try it out.

blowing sand/little rocks has never been an issue. The vaccume pressure isnt that strong from more than a ft. away. I tried experimenting with some sand/earth on the driveway and i didnt pick up anything.

keep in mind you're also holding the thing a good 3 ft+ off of the ground. You should definitely try it out.

thanks m320psi...you just gave me a reason to visit sears this weekend...i love washing my car but drying sucks and the blower must make it easier....btw you have some sick mods awaiting to be installed....damn...love the brembo bbk

Thanks kash,

it's so tough to stare at these things and wait to have them installed. I have most of the stuff on my dining room table or on the desk in my office. My ICE install should prob. start in about 2 weeks. and then i'll have all of my mods put on after that. I'm waiting for all of my mods to arrive so i can have everything done at once.

I was also told to wash your car in a particular pattern. Starting at the top woking your way down finsihing with the trunk and right side of your car as those tend to be the dirtiest. As far as wheel cleaning, LR,RR,LF, RF. Why finsish with the right side of the car and RF wheel? puddles (if you drive in the wet).

Also, I use a separate bucket for my wheel detergent/soap and my car soap. Use two separate sponges/wool mitts as well so you do not transfer the corrosive brake dust debris to your paint.

Dry with leaf blower, Cali water blade, microfiber towels.

Pretty much the same. Rinse thoroughly before you start to get as much of the paint scratching dirt off as possible. Use car detergent in a clean bucket and wash with sheepskin mit starting with the roof and working your way down to the rocker panels, top to bottom (since it is dirtiest at the bottom of the car). Rinse after each section (roof, hood, doors, etc) so the soap cannot dry. I do the wheels last so I don't have the brake dust in the water when I'm washing the car body. I use a soft bristle wheel brush and soap. I also prespray the wheels with Armour-All wheel cleaner if they're bad. I use a chamois to dry it and I dry the horizontal surfaces first (roof, hood, trunk), then I dry the side that's in the sun first so it doesn't dry too fast and leave watermarks. I throw my sheepskin mit in the laundry after each washing to make sure I don't have any small dirt particles in it.

I got a leaf blower that I never use, hmmm, I think I'll try that and see if it's any faster than using a chamois (that's the slowest part of the whole process anyway).

Agree with all the points so far. Never use a boars hair brush unless you know exactly what you are doing and are very careful...only the very tips can be used or you will scratch your car....better off going with a micro-fiber mit or sheepskin mit.

After you finish washing your car, take the hose starting on your roof and let the water slow stream/trickle. If you had a nozzle on the hose, take it off....just let the water kind of run over the car...starting at top and moving toward bottom. This will take 90% of the water off your car by "sheeting" the water off....its quite amazing.

For me, I then take a california water blade to the car. Before I use the blower to dry my car, I use this item - its kind of like a squeegy. By the time I finish with that, then the blower, I am able to finish up the car with a single micro-fiber towel...just about 2-3 minutes of spot drying certain parts.

I know this sounds kind of involved, but its not. If you follow this process, you car will be 99% dry before your towel even touches it.

After you finish washing your car, take the hose starting on your roof and let the water slow stream/trickle. If you had a nozzle on the hose, take it off....just let the water kind of run over the car...starting at top and moving toward bottom. This will take 90% of the water off your car by "sheeting" the water off....its quite amazing.

This method kicks butt. :thumbsup: I stopped using the california water blade. I just use the method you mentioned above and just use an absorber for the top part of the car and just use a regular bath towel on the lower parts, bumper and in between the trunk, hood, and door jams.

I also use two different buckets. One for wheels and tires and one for car. I wouldn't use the same buckets. Accordingly, I wash wheels first then move on to the car.

I use Palmolive,steel wool,then I dry it with aluminum foil.
Works like a charm

The Mister Clean Autowash System is the coolest thing I have ever used. It's $20 at Target and all you do is load their polymer based soap and deionizer filter and then use the same procedures some of the guys have already mentioned.

Use the soft mitt and once the car is clean hit the deionizer spray to spray down the car from the top down.

It dries to a perfect sheen with no spots without even touching the car. There was an earlier post on this. Lots of people are using this. It really works. :D

I use Palmolive,steel wool,then I dry it with aluminum foil.
Works like a charm

Looks like someone has a metal fetish. I use palmoive, but not on my car.

Just your crotch right?

<http://www.autopia.org/> is a great forum to learn about keeping your car in top notch appearance. Tons of info there.

No its not at all unless you use it for the yard as well! Ask me how I know? Thank god it was the woman's car and she will never notice the little scratch on her roof, that I spent about an hour on!

You would think I would know better, but obviously not!

How do Zaino afficionados feel about using the sheep-skin mit? As far as I know, Sal Zaino only endorses 100% cotton.

I'll be taking delivery of my Jet Black M3 in a month or so :beer: , and I have all the Zaino products waiting to go, but wonder the ideal way to wash it. 100% cotton mit :???: .

Hi gang. What process do you all follow for washing your M3? I see lots of advice on waxing, and clay bar, but what about the wash process. In particular what do you use? Sheepskin mit, boar's hair brush, or other? How do you dry? Micro fiber towel, chamois? What do you recommend I use and where do I buy? Thanks!!


.. After three months of washing by hand and experimenting with sheepskin sponges, chamois rags, silicone squeeges, car handi-wipes, and a wide array of clearcoat enhancers, wheel cleaners, etc... oh, and yes also a leaf blower to do the drying (btw it does work GREAT)... I have now "thrown in the towel" and found a great "Soft Touch" automated car wash... $8 bucks for the "Supreme Wash"... takes only 5 minutes and does a geat job.

This is NOT the kind of car wash that pushes your car tires through the rail track... I'm too scared that would f*** up my rims. This is the kind of car wash that you drive your car into, then stop at a certain spot... and the machine takes over from there and does all the moving and washing... I sit still the whole time... even through the blow-dry... for $8 bucks and 5 minutes it can't be beat and I can always touch-up any streaks at home myself really easy.

Once every couple of months I'll still hand wash it and give it a liquid glass treatment, but quickly I grew tired of two hours a weekend trying to wash by hand.

I'm a big fan of the boars hair brush for washing and separate wheel brushes for the wheels. I always do the wheels first before the rest of the car since they take the most work, that way if I get tired or diverted at least the wheels are clean.

I use a blow gun and my air compressor to dry the car. The nozzle on the gun is great for blasting water out of spots that would leak out later like mirrors, moldings and door jambs.

.. After three months of washing by hand and experimenting with sheepskin sponges, chamois rags, silicone squeeges, car handi-wipes, and a wide array of clearcoat enhancers, wheel cleaners, etc... oh, and yes also a leaf blower to do the drying (btw it does work GREAT)... I have now "thrown in the towel" and found a great "Soft Touch" automated car wash... $8 bucks for the "Supreme Wash"... takes only 5 minutes and does a geat job.

This is NOT the kind of car wash that pushes your car tires through the rail track... I'm too scared that would f*** up my rims. This is the kind of car wash that you drive your car into, then stop at a certain spot... and the machine takes over from there and does all the moving and washing... I sit still the whole time... even through the blow-dry... for $8 bucks and 5 minutes it can't be beat and I can always touch-up any streaks at home myself really easy.

Once every couple of months I'll still hand wash it and give it a liquid glass treatment, but quickly I grew tired of two hours a weekend trying to wash by hand.


Spartacus,

is this one of those touchless car washes that cleans merely by using a spray? If not, what kind of material comes in touch with the car. Let me know - if I can find a way to do it in 5 min and spend $8, it beats spending 2 hours doing it myself...

Spartacus,

is this one of those touchless car washes that cleans merely by using a spray? If not, what kind of material comes in touch with the car. Let me know - if I can find a way to do it in 5 min and spend $8, it beats spending 2 hours doing it myself...


.. Actually it's not "touchless"... it's called "Soft Touch", and it's a drive-through unit at Mobil Gas Stations in my area. It has those big floppy mop-like machines that spin and wash the sides and top of the car, sprays the bottom, and some special side brushes that clean the wheels.

I don't know what the mop material is made of... but it definitely comes in physical contact with the car. I have inspected very closely after washing and can confirm no micro-scratching whatsoever. From a cleaning standpoint, on a scale of 1 to 10 I would rate it a 7-8. Which is fine for me because the car gets dirty so fast anyway. We have a LOT of tiny flying insects (nats and stuff) in Florida and I swear it only takes a few days to splat about 30-50 or so on the windshield. Now that I have found a few good back roads to open up on regurarly it is a problem I have come to accept... The faster I drive, the harder they hit :0

I still plan on giving it a good washing by hand every month or so... just can't keep up with it every week!

Also I am going to try that Mr. Clean system someone mentioned that eliminates the need to hand-dry the car (most time-consuming part of process). I picked one up at Target on Saturday for $20.

If I get good results I'll post.... -Spartacus

Ok, since this thread kinda hits home for me...ill throw in my 2 cents. There have been some very good responses thus far, so the majority of you have a pretty decent idea of how to efficiently take care of a car. :D

Be cautious of using heavily abrasive brushes/mits or sponges on your delicate clearcoated paint (i.e wool,, or thick and heavy cutting animal hair). The most common origin of swirls, 'spider webbings' and fine scratches come from improper cleaning/washing techniques (often b/c people apply too much pressure while scrubbing) and by low quality washing and drying products that are too rough.

A quality car washing liquid (like Meguiars, Pinnacle, 4 Star etc...) should provide enough lubrication when mixed with water to efficiently and effectively remove dirt, debris and contaminants from your paint.

Dawn is alkaline and gentle yes, but in my opinion (based on experience and also based on lengthy conversations with other detailers) there are more efficient and effective products on the market.

I'd recomend you check out Premiumautocare.com for a full array of fantastic detailing products, coupled with first-class service (you can call them for ANY question you have about any product or technique). ALso, they are running a 10% discount (for Detailcity.com members only...but you can register and get the 10% off), and FREE shipping during the month of March. I just recently ordered almost $300 of products this week alone.

Anyhow, as far as drying, polishing and waxing....use only the highest quality microfiber or chamois, this too will greatly deminish the chance for inadvertant/minute abrasion on the paint.

Waffle weave/MF towels are best for drying, and MF/chamois are optimum for application and removal of polishes/waxes.

With that said, here's my particular detailing routine...you can choose a routine that works for you...but this will give you a good idea on how to effectively clean, prep and finish your car to showroom quality.

Here's my routine:

A)Start with Interior first.
1-Remove carpets and proceed to vacuum them, the cabin and the trunk.
2-Removal of light oxidation (stains) in the carpet
3-Wipe interior windows, dash, console and remove all dirt, dust and grime
4-Treat rubber/vinly....apply leather conditioner as needed
5-do a thorough check of the crevices and tough spots once more

B) Exterior-Washing
1-Rinse car to loosen dirt and impurities
2-Start hand scrubbing from the top down on a sectional basis
3-rinse after cleaning each section
4-Spray/clean tires/rims/wheel wells
5-Run around spot check with a bug/tar removal sponge (for any spots i missed)

C) Drying
1-I Use CWB (cali water blade) to remove large sheets of water
2-proceed with Waffle weave/microfiber hand dry
3-2nd run around dry in hard to reach places
4-make sure trunk lining and door jams are dry and clean
5-final run around check

Paint cleaning, Polishing and waxing steps have their own functional applicator pads too (from heavy cutting to mild polishing abbrasiveness to non abbrasive wax application). Removal/buffing of these compunds is best with a MF and/or chamois as previously stated above.


Hope this helps, ill be glad to answer any questions.

:D

Also, another website good for quality towels is pakshak.com, as i beleive has been also previously mentioned by a member.

;)

When it is raining or dusty out I usually just go through a touchless, just the spray car washes and then go home let it dry and bring out the zaino spray and go over the whole car and its amazing for a quick wash. But on summer days I will wash right before dark and this helps to reduce water spots and always pull into garage right after washing to dry.

Also, another website good for quality towels is pakshak.com, as i beleive has been also previously mentioned by a member.

;)

Mike , did you get their waffle MF towels. They work well don't they? :thumbsup:

BTW, do you alternate your running around the car so you don't get dizzy? ;)

The master has spoken (badmother). :bow:

If I'm ever in Florida, I'm definitely bringing my car to you.

Mike , did you get their waffle MF towels. They work well don't they? :thumbsup:

BTW, do you alternate your running around the car so you don't get dizzy? ;)


Im currently in email contact with the owner of pakshak, we're discussin various deals on bulk orders (b/c i plan to buy ALOT of waffle weave and MF's). But for the moment no, i have yet to purchase anything from there. Im currently investigating the most cost efficient route of purchase b/ween pakshak.com and/or premiumautocare.com too :D

I dont get dizzy runnin around the cars for the final check, but i DO run around them looking like this though :dance:

The master has spoken (badmother). :bow:

If I'm ever in Florida, I'm definitely bringing my car to you.


:D :clap: :peace:

Here's my routine:



B) Exterior-Washing
1-Rinse car to loosen dirt and impurities
2-Start hand scrubbing from the top down on a sectional basis
3-rinse after cleaning each section
4-Spray/clean tires/rims/wheel wells
5-Run around spot check with a bug/tar removal sponge (for any spots i missed)

:D

Wouldn't you want to use the bug & tar remover BEFORE you're all finished? Say..after you rinse the car off? :hmm:

Wouldn't you want to use the bug & tar remover BEFORE you're all finished? Say..after you rinse the car off? :hmm:

:peace:

Well, even after a thorough exterior wash & scrub, you'd be surprised how many small/tough spots were missed.


For instance, i was detailing a white Mercedes CLK 320, and it looked pristine after i finished the preliminary wash. However, i moistened up my bug/tar remover (also placed a small dab of Meg's car wash lubricant) and walked around with my face an inch from the paint checking for imperfections....

Long and behold (or is it lone and behold??, lol) i found numerous (very tiny) light brown tree sap and road grime specs. Some thorough rubbing and a final Microfiber wipe....and perfection. :)


Hope that makes sense?

:thumbsup:

What I do:

Rinse car real good - high power rinse all around. I use three microfiber wash mits and Zaino Car Wash.

Start on the top roof and work my way down the windshield, side windows, rear trunk, etc. I use only back and forth movements.

I hit the lower panels last and then hit the wheels at the very end. Rinse real well and use slow stream from hose to "flow" the water off the paint leaving little water on car.

I dry with 3 Big Blue MF drying towels again back and forth movements.

Lastly, I use Sonus quick sealant detailer to get any last drops of water and done :bow:

My thanks to all of you for your great advice. I didn't realize this thread would get this response. I'm dyin' over here waiting for my new ride sometime in early May. I appreciate the insight to take nozzle off hose and let water sheet over car for easy drying. Also, the part of wash the wheels first, and then change the water to wash the car. This way when you're done with the car you can immediately try and don'e have to waste time washing wheels while water spots on the car. THANKS!!

Now, for the l o n g wait.......................................

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html

everything you need to know and a one stop shop! :dance:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html

everything you need to know and a one stop shop! :dance:



www.detailcity.com is another fantastic detailing site, very informative in all areas of car care. In addition to answering all/any of your questions, its a very friendly and relaxed atmosphere too, detail city rules!


:rockband:

www.detailcity.com is another fantastic detailing site, very informative in all areas of car care. In addition to answering all/any of your questions, its a very friendly and relaxed atmosphere too, detail city rules!


:rockband:

Mike,
Don't be giving too many of your secrets away, you don't want to lose customers. ;)

Hey Guys I took today for the first time my car to dose stand still automated car washes. The ones the machine, moves around the car and never actually touches the car. I think it was a great way to clean my car but still not as good as detailing it my self.
As I came out of the machine I checked my car from the outside and found several spots that were missed by the machine.
How ever I guess this is a method that works here in El Paso that is a city located in a Desert and water authorities are a pain in the neck if they catch you washing your car and they find a big pond outside your garage ja!

I do have some questions..... at these places they sell you three types of wash cycles. There is the basic one that only uses soap and that's pretty much it. And then there are two more that add like a sort of car protection and brightener.
My question is... should I just take the simple wash cycle and then at my place detail my car or should I take the most expensive cycle?
I heard from somewhere that the extra liquids could damage the paint. How true is that?
I was thinking of actually running the car twice on the basic mode and then get home and detail it, I guess by doing this I can actually assure my self that the car is completely rinsed. And then get to my house and do the wheels and the interior.

What can you guys comment over this?

Is this thing wireless? please check the link below to see if we are talking about the same leaf blower.



http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@1279573026.1097789877@ @@@&BV_EngineID=ccekadcmkkifieicehgcemgdffmdflg.0&vertical=SEARS&sid=I0004501490004400085&pid=07174038000

Is this thing wireless? please check the link below to see if we are talking about the same leaf blower.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@1279573026.1097789877@ @@@&BV_EngineID=ccekadcmkkifieicehgcemgdffmdflg.0&vertical=SEARS&sid=I0004501490004400085&pid=07174038000

I dont think that one is cordless. I use one similar to this: Dryer from ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22655&item=4329390710&rd=1)

I bought mine for $18 at pep boys. Works great. Steps: 1) remove excess water with dry blade 2) dry crevices w/ car dryer 3) finish up w/ waffle weave microfiber towel

I used to use a blower similar to the one from sears and found it awkward to handle. Also, the tip of the blower from Pep Boys is soft rubber vs hard plastic on the yard type blowers.

My question is... should I just take the simple wash cycle and then at my place detail my car or should I take the most expensive cycle? I heard from somewhere that the extra liquids could damage the paint. How true is that?
I was thinking of actually running the car twice on the basic mode and then get home and detail it, I guess by doing this I can actually assure my self that the car is completely rinsed. And then get to my house and do the wheels and the interior.

What can you guys comment over this?

That's the way I would do it, twice through the regular cycle. Who knows what's in the other sealants they put on the car, I'd rather use a good quality wax myself. The only change I'd suggest is doing the wheels before you go to the car wash. That way you don't have to rinse them yourself!

That's the way I would do it, twice through the regular cycle. Who knows what's in the other sealants they put on the car, I'd rather use a good quality wax myself. The only change I'd suggest is doing the wheels before you go to the car wash. That way you don't have to rinse them yourself!



I have taken my car a few times to the machine, but you do have to run the process twice. I also use before going to the car wash machine a Kärcher jet washer which ejects water in high pressure. This helps when the car has been driven on wet roads and the body has that thick film of mud on it.
I have taken also some exterior detailing material with me, so that when I come out of the second run I can wipe off all of the remaining water. I bought a couple of absorbers to use in different parts.

By the way I discovered that if you spray armor all on your tires you will get some of the liquid on your brake rotors so It's better if you apply it with a sponge and as well you wont have to clean the armor all off your wheels.

As I wrote for another forum(s)............

I thought i would start a thread entitled Proper Washing Methods. I’ve been reading some threads on other forums, its amazing how people wash there cars! So let’s get started: The first thing you would like to do is pick a shaded area, this will help in permitting water spotting later. Items you will need for this venture are : 2 buckets, car wash, sheepskin mitt or microfiber mitt/towels, waffle weave drying towel, wheel brush, hose nozzle, a safe wheel cleaner, maybe some tire cleaner. Some folks like to clean wheels first, so I won’t get into the particulars of that, its fairly easy, and basic. Apply a safe wheel cleaner, to one wheel at a time, clean with brush or suitable cleaning tool, rinse, and continue to the next. While your car is cool, and hopefully in the shade, start hosing the surface off with a high stream of water, start at the top so dirt and contaminants fall over non rinsed areas. Make sure to use a good stream to any side moldings and emblems, you will be amazed at the quantity of dirt hiding in there.
Continue to do this until the entire surface has been rinsed. Remember, top to bottom.....Next add a couple oz of car wash soap to bucket #1, and fill with water, add water to bucket #2. With the sheepskin in hand, or whatever you’ve selected to wash with, gently wipe the surface with suds from a front to back motion, again, your starting at the roof area, then trunk, then hood, then sides. Depending on your speed, and if it is warm and dry out, you may need to rinse each panel after washing, until you have completed the car. Keep your cars surface wet until you’re completely finished. When you find the need to redip your sheepskin in the suds, rinse it out in bucket #2, this will remove dirt and contaminants from possibly further scratching the surface. (Your going to want to make sure you have plenty of soap (lubricant) on your sheepskin all the while washing, this will help to suspend the dirt, and let it be carried off during the rinse.)Use that method throughout your washing. After the vehicle is completely finished, remove the nozzle from the hose end, and let the water exit the hose without any added pressure. Hold the hose a couple inches from the roof surface, and start at the high end of the vehicle. Chase the water across the surface with the flow exiting the hose. Run/sheet the water across the surface, and continue with the hood, and rear deck, and sides.
When all is said and done, open the hood and trunk, and let the remaining water sheet itself off while you dry the sides with a Waffle Weave drying towel. (At this point, some like to use quick detailers or Eagle One’s “Wax as u Dry”.) Start at the top, and work your way down to lower panels, refold the waffle weave as it absorbs water, a 24x30 towel is generally all that is needed. You may want to follow in your other hand with a clean and dry microfiber 16x16 towel.
You may find this technique of benefit to you, and if so, you may be able to tweak it a little to meet your specific needs. Good luck and I hope to have helped at least a few of you!
If anyone needs any additional questions answered, or some help in product selection, just PM me !

Really good tips here... I wanted to add a few things.

Instead of hand drying or using a leaf blower, which does not have a filter and can blow dust and debris into your paint causing damage that is worse than swirl marks... try this car dryer... I got mine from www.motorcycledryer.com. Again it is a hand held car dryer.. plenty of power... more than a leaf blower... but it comes with a filter... so you are blowing clean air onto your car.

Also only soap down and dry a small portion of the car at a time... you do not want soap drying on the car as you are wiping another section. Best to start high and work your way down. Wipe in a straight line... never make a circular buffing motion.. if u r making tiny swilr makrs... if they are striaght with the line of the vehicle... light will only reflect on them in one direction... if you move your hand in a circular motion like you are buffing... you will get circular swirl marks which reflect light in all directions and they are much more noticable. I also use three wash mits. All lamb wool. One for the rims... again a special bucket of soap for the wheels. A mitt and a bucket of soap for the body work. Then.. once I finish the upper body... I get the lower body panels that are closer to the street... the rocker panels which collect more dust and debris. I wipe them down last so that I do not take that debris onto the upper body of the car where swirl marks are more noticable. Hope these help some.

Hi gang. What process do you all follow for washing your M3? I see lots of advice on waxing, and clay bar, but what about the wash process. In particular what do you use? Sheepskin mit, boar's hair brush, or other? How do you dry? Micro fiber towel, chamois? What do you recommend I use and where do I buy? Thanks!!

zymol wash with wool mitt, deionized water and just let it air dry, or california water blade if I'm in a hurry. Key is deionized water. You can rent or buy a tank. I bought mine and it will last at least a year, washing two cars once per week. $25 per year to have it swapped out for a new tank, $350 to buy the tank. Looks like a water softener tank. Check with your local car dealer to see where they get their tanks from.